6.5 diesel suburban question ???
Looking at a 97 turbo burb that I can buy for 1500 bucks truck needs a good cleaning and body is not rusty. Owner sent me a video of truck at idle. It seems to be in limp mode as it wont rev over 2000...
Forum Discussion
Go to thedieselplace.com and read up on the 6.5.
They have a bad rep, but also have a good following for those that know how to fix them.
Fun truck and the only Chebby of that era to get more than about 12-13mpg.
There are any number of things that could cause the low rpms.
Optic sensor, IP going out ($$$), "new" pmd is bad, plugged injector return lines, lift pump not working (bad pump, bad signal from lp relay, bad ground to lp, sucking air at the lp, filter or any connections in between the tank and pump), bad ecm,injectors, egr codes/issues, vaccum problems, turbo, wastegate solenoids or actuator, etc, etc.
I'd read the codes on it before buying it. The 95? and up need a obd II reader, no paperclip trick for reading codes, but if any of the codes relate to ip fuel pressure I'd walk or plan on $1500 for a new IP and probably injector lines just because you'll tear them up disconnecting them.
It's 50/50 could be a simple fix (they have alot of little electrical gremlins) or big bucks.
I bought a '94 6.5TD last year, not running for $1000. 1500 Z71 truck, excellent shape, lots of work done already 200k miles. I spent a couple solid weekends and about $400 in parts (new remote pmd and fuel line re routing, egr bypassing, turbo vaccum work, etc) and had a $4000 truck when I was done. It had a new IP or I wouldn't have touched it. If it was the IP I could have been close to $2k in parts and more weekends of work!
I would never buy one to tow with no matter how nice of shape it was in though.
They have a bad rep, but also have a good following for those that know how to fix them.
Fun truck and the only Chebby of that era to get more than about 12-13mpg.
There are any number of things that could cause the low rpms.
Optic sensor, IP going out ($$$), "new" pmd is bad, plugged injector return lines, lift pump not working (bad pump, bad signal from lp relay, bad ground to lp, sucking air at the lp, filter or any connections in between the tank and pump), bad ecm,injectors, egr codes/issues, vaccum problems, turbo, wastegate solenoids or actuator, etc, etc.
I'd read the codes on it before buying it. The 95? and up need a obd II reader, no paperclip trick for reading codes, but if any of the codes relate to ip fuel pressure I'd walk or plan on $1500 for a new IP and probably injector lines just because you'll tear them up disconnecting them.
It's 50/50 could be a simple fix (they have alot of little electrical gremlins) or big bucks.
I bought a '94 6.5TD last year, not running for $1000. 1500 Z71 truck, excellent shape, lots of work done already 200k miles. I spent a couple solid weekends and about $400 in parts (new remote pmd and fuel line re routing, egr bypassing, turbo vaccum work, etc) and had a $4000 truck when I was done. It had a new IP or I wouldn't have touched it. If it was the IP I could have been close to $2k in parts and more weekends of work!
I would never buy one to tow with no matter how nice of shape it was in though.
