Forum Discussion

TrueBlueKC's avatar
TrueBlueKC
Explorer
May 04, 2016

99 Suburban 1500 5.7

Before I buy a new TV I figured I'd post some numbers and see what you all think. We were looking at trailers and found one we like a lot. The Keystone passport 23RB. At first it seemed like it would be too much for my burb but I'm not sure.

TV is 99 Suburban 4x4 5.7L with a 3.73 axle.
6000# trailer rating
7300# GVWR
4000# RAWR
base payload is 2000#
Wheelbase is 131.5"
I can't find the GCWR anywhere.

The trailer is 26'3" long and 11' high
Dry wt. is 4760#
Dry hitch wt. 565#
CCC is 2053#

My 'burban has plenty of life left with 150,000 miles and I'd hate to trade her in just yet, but I will if I have to.
  • Thunderbolt wrote:
    Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.

    TrueBlueKC wrote:
    Before I buy a new TV I figured I'd post some numbers and see what you all think. We were looking at trailers and found one we like a lot. The Keystone passport 23RB. At first it seemed like it would be too much for my burb but I'm not sure.

    TV is 99 Suburban 4x4 5.7L with a 3.73 axle.
    6000# trailer rating
    7300# GVWR
    4000# RAWR
    base payload is 2000#
    Wheelbase is 131.5"
    I can't find the GCWR anywhere.

    The trailer is 26'3" long and 11' high
    Dry wt. is 4760#
    Dry hitch wt. 565#
    CCC is 2053#

    My 'burban has plenty of life left with 150,000 miles and I'd hate to trade her in just yet, but I will if I have to.


    Well to be honest I was told that was my payload when I bought it a long long time ago. And I googled it.:D

    Help me understand this... My hitch reads 10,000# with 1000# max tongue when using weight distribution so I thought that was OK. I also didn't think a 4700# trailer would way anywhere near 6800# loaded. Wouldn't that mean I would need 2100 lbs. of cargo and propane? Should I be adding the dry wt. plus the ccc and assume that number is what I'll actually be towing?

    I'm clearly new but at least I'm learning rather than just hitch and go.
  • Edit...that GCWR chart is for the GM 2000 or 2001 family of trucks...the 1999 will
    be a bit less

    Have the direct link to GM's specifications for 1999, but they took it down...all
    OEMs take their spec pages down after a while...my guess misconception of applicability
    to whichever era folks are trying find ratings for...like this thread
  • Ymmv, but I towed 6-7klb trailers all over the country with the gmt400 half ton trucks, what you have. Still are on the top of my list of reliable bomb proof trucks.
    You'll need to help the rear suspension, reccomend trailer brakes of course and the chassi will handle it fine. Power wise, no where near any of the new V8s but everyone used it in 1999 no problem. It'll struggle in the hills but otherwise capable chassi if you are prudent in your decisions.
    Now if you load the Burb down with 4 screamin kids, 500lbs of luggage, trailer full of everything but another kitchen sink I'd say you don't have enough truck. Also towing heavy will not be friendly to a 250kmi old auto trans. Keep it cool!
    Bottom line, you're right on the edge of what your vehicle will be happy towing.
    Problem is, you don't want to sink a bunch of upgrades into your old whip just to sell it after the first trip.
    I'd reccomend if you're an experienced wrench and experienced towing, go for it. If you're not that guy, I'd go bigger and newer for peace of mind and factor of safety.
  • Thunderbolt wrote:

    Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.



    Easy and most folks derived it the same way...why always advise to
    go out and actually weigh it, axle by axle, fully loaded ready to
    go camping. Not just the newbies asking for help, but senior advisors
    here also don't understand that concept of curb being the basis for
    most all the ratings

    Take the OP's 7,300 GVWR minus it's curb of around 5,300 and you get
    approx 2,000 of cargo/payload/etc...only if he has a curb weight
    TV...Curb is the stripper with no options, other than the towing option
    and one 150lb driver. Some OEMs use full up fluids (fuel) and some
    a partial tankful

    Below is a quote from another thread on this with more detail of my
    Suburban and get: 3,350 lb cargo/payload over curb

    Ditto folks referencing the MTWR...correct, as that is what the OEMs
    all publish, but fine print says used a 'curb' vehicle...

    This OP will most likely find that his actually weighs in around 6.5K
    fully loaded. If each seat belt filled with 200 pounders...it will push
    it to around 7K or more

    Agree that this trailer will be at the hairy edge or more and suggest
    consideration of 4.1's for the diff(s). The 5.7L is capable, but way
    down in HP compared to today's ICE's.

    Take a look at the below GCWR chart from GM and notice the tow rating
    between the 3.73 and 4.1 for the 5.7L



    BenK wrote:
    GCWR is fairly new rating and not listed widely, yet. Also note that many DO NOT
    consider GCWR matters, so not many will have that info here on these
    forums

    Gotta grab these charts from the OEM the year they publish them...as they remove
    them the next model/gen...as it is a source of liability for them it something
    goes south (all OEMs has something go south sooner or later). This is the brochure
    spec you need to get a hold of

    GCWR GCWRchart

    Generally, it is the curb weight + tow option + one 150lb driver + hitch + MTWR

    Factored by components on the TV. Like the diff ratio, etc...also note that aftermarket
    stuff like over sized tires, lift kit, etc, etc

    Here is an old thread on this using my Suburban as an example


    Help Understanding How Factories Detemine Truck Weights
    BenK wrote:
    This comes up all the time...and most who have not gone through this
    before...go away to not talk about this again...deny and argue...or
    some actually understand how this works-especially those who went
    out and actually weighed their TV

    Pure marketing with some reality sprinkled in...meaning how else can
    the OEMs do this and still be competitive with the public who believes
    the marketing data as gospel...AKA "King of the Hill" or "mine is
    bigger than yours"

    Reality, as how else can they provide a manageable level of rows/columns/etc

    Meaning if they listed every option on a row with a column for the
    various ratings.

    Like a row for 4x4 and columns for MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

    Then a row for 4x4 & AC and columns for MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

    Then a row for 4x4 & AC & power seats/windows/locks and columns for
    MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

    and so on, and so on, and so on...betcha that would be dozens of sheets
    and even more confusing than what we have now...where they define or
    put into context with the fine print




    This is my Suburban, as I've actually weighed it at a county weights
    and measure certified (their sticker for that year) to be accurate
    enough for commerce (sell by weight and charge money for that weight)

    That 5,250 Lb CURB is on the California DMV data base and is provided
    by GM, the OEM of my GMC Suburban. Against the VIN number.

    These Calif SMOG test reports are official state documents and are
    also legal documents that I'd use if I need to prove anything about
    the data on my SMOG test/registration/etc

    Have noodled what options I'd have to unbolt, cut out, etc in order
    to get my Suburban down to the listed 'curb'...There wouldn't be any
    carpet, sound insulation, 4x4, AC, automatic, etc, etc, etc

    "Test Weight" is the 'curb' weight, not the actual...again, have
    actually weighed it at a county weights and measure certified scale
    at my local garden center

    BenK wrote:
    My Suburban GMT400/1996 was before the weight stickers on the the newer
    TVs door...

    So here are my numbers:

    5,250 curb
    8,600 GVWR

    3,350 lb cargo/payload over curb


    My 2014 smog certificate...note that this is an official state
    document and the info supplied by each OEM for that VIN...
    mysub mysuburban mysubsmog mysmog

    mysubGVWR mysubdoor mysubdoorlable doorlabel subdoorlable


    Mine weighs in around 7,200 at the local garden scales, county
    weights&measure certified, with me (180) and toolbox (+200) and misc stuff (+50)

    Also has full up option package, SLT, 4x4, big block, and over sized
    wheels and tires

    8,600 minus
    7,200

    1,400 lbs cargo/payload

    All with a 6,000 RGAWR...that AAM rates at 10,000 GAWR. The 6K GAWR
    GM lists is around 2,000 more than most 'half ton' TVs

    Oh...also ordered the F60 option...which is the 1 ton front snow plow prep package
    My FGAWR is 4,250 and near most half ton's rear GAWR.



    And here is the glove box RPO code label listing every option that
    my Sub left the factory with...plus I've added lots of stuff...how
    many pages would the matrix listing each and each combo of options
    take to list MTWR, GCWR, etc...


    mysubrpo suburbanrpo mysuburbanrpo



    {edit}...here is my 1980 Siliverado C10 Big Ten (1500HD of it's era)
    and note the 'curb' vs GVWR

    Ditto what would I have to unbolt/cut-out/etc to get it down to 'curb'


    mytrucksmog mysilveradosmog trucksmog silveradosmog



    Actual weight at the dumps...me (180), nephew (180), bed cap (~250),
    over sized tires/wheels, tools, extra coolant, extra oil, etc, etc

    This scale also had the county weights and measure certified sticker



    mytruckweight truckweight silveradoweight truckdumpweight


    vs it's door ratings label


    mytruckdoorlabel truckdoorlabel mytruckgvwr truckgvwr




    This one addresses diff ratio and how it affects MTWR/GCWR

    changing gear ratio? myth?
  • Thunderbolt wrote:
    Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.



    What he said!

    I was thinking the exact same thing.
  • I'd say no. I had a 99 Tahoe with factory towing package, 373 gears, same truck like yours, just shorter and 500 lbs lighter. Tow capacity was 6500.

    I had issues pulling 4000 up the hill, or getting going if I had to stop on a red light going uphill.

    Now I am towing with an 2006 Explorer with a small 4.6 and the little ford outperforms the Tahoe by day and night. I'd say Tahoe was more comfy, wider and bulky, but power wise that 5.7 was not that great.
  • Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.

    TrueBlueKC wrote:
    Before I buy a new TV I figured I'd post some numbers and see what you all think. We were looking at trailers and found one we like a lot. The Keystone passport 23RB. At first it seemed like it would be too much for my burb but I'm not sure.

    TV is 99 Suburban 4x4 5.7L with a 3.73 axle.
    6000# trailer rating
    7300# GVWR
    4000# RAWR
    base payload is 2000#
    Wheelbase is 131.5"
    I can't find the GCWR anywhere.

    The trailer is 26'3" long and 11' high
    Dry wt. is 4760#
    Dry hitch wt. 565#
    CCC is 2053#

    My 'burban has plenty of life left with 150,000 miles and I'd hate to trade her in just yet, but I will if I have to.
  • Being on the edge of a TVs capability is not usually the best experience. If you add a large family, with lots of gear it could be too much.

    If you are prepared to trade up to a more capable TV, you could give your Burb a try before doing so. IMO, it would work for the short term, unless you are planning a long trip right away. If you are not happy with it towing the new trailer, you could trade anytime.

    Jerry