A power drill to lift a TC

The problem is torque. Most battery drills will not have enough torque. Actually most corded drills will come up short also. What you need is a TRIPLE gear reduction (most drills have double gear reduction) drill like a DeWalt like a DW245.

Harleybullet wrote:
Has anyone purchased a battery operated drill to use on the Jacks for a TC. I have an AF1150 and the motors are shot, I use the manual switch and a Makita drill to lower the jacks to the ground but then have to use a large ratchet wrench once it is off the springs of the truck. I do not want to use an impact wrench it might damage the fittings on the Jack /

Dave

You need a 1/2 inch, battery, 24 volt, DeWalt Hammer drill. Yes you turn off the hammer option. It has 450 INCH pounds of torque. When you pull the trigger SOMETHING moves. I bought mine to raise the roof on our old popup. Now I use it to lower the stabilizers. I can pick up the whole TT with it.

I understand newer 18 volt, and 20 volt drills have better torque now. Yes you need torque. And it can be had in a higher voltage drill.. but they are not so cheap. A 9, or 12 volt won't do it.

I agree that torque is the problem. But I'm not so sure that the short lever of any drill, corded or otherwise, is going to give you enough leverage. Nothing like pulling the trigger and finding you aren't strong enough to hold the drill, which could do the job if only you could hold on to it.

I looked at the DW245 @theoldwizard1 referenced and couldn't find any torque specs on it. It is a 1/2" drill, but corded. I have a Rigid 1/2" drill (Home Depot house brand, I think) that produces around 450 inch-pounds of torque, and have found it capable of twisting itself right out of my hands. I'm not sure it could do what the OP wants because, after all, it only provides the standard 6 inch or so lever arm almost all drills have.

I've used 18 volt Milwaukee cordless drill for years in the construction business. I have used the same drill to raise a TC but it was a small 8' pop-up.
I recently got a new Milwaukee 18v cordless drill to replace my 10 year old model. The new one is so much more powerful it's almost scary. It came with a detachable extra handle for high torque applications. I thought that was silly, it's just a cordless drill after all. Then I used it with a 4" hole saw. It grabbed and twisted my arm around. I thought it was going to break my arm off. I use the side handle now with the 4" hole saw.
I would have to guess that a modern day 18v or higher voltage drill with a brush-less motor made by Milwaukee, DeWalt, or other good brand would have more power than the motors that came with your jacks.

I have used my 20v. Porter-Cable drill to lower/raise the HappiJacks, but it won't handle it all the way when there is a lot of weight to lift. Still, that saves a whole lot of hand cranking.

theoldwizard1 wrote:
The problem is torque. Most battery drills will not have enough torque. Actually most corded drills will come up short also. What you need is a TRIPLE gear reduction (most drills have double gear reduction) drill like a DeWalt like a DW245.

I have the manual RT jacks on my TC (I was too cheap to spring for the 1200 buck option of electric jacks.....:B

My jacks came with 2 cordless / corded drill adapters. I get on one side, Amy gets on the opposite side and we lift and lower the unit with 2 Harbor Freight 20 Volt Lithium cordless drills (the Blue Ones). No problem, up or down and once the camper is in the truck (and jacks pad are off the ground), A quick flip into high gear raises the jack legs pronto.

I have no need for remote electric jacks, my cordless drills work just fine.

I carry one drill with me so when we set up to camp, I run the legs down to stabilize the camper (we hate rocking and rolling).

I have a Makita XPH01 1/2 inch 18 volt drill that has a hammer function and 2 speed settings. I've used it for the last couple years on 3 different truck campers. You do have to make a concentrated effort to keep the body from rotating but not really difficult to do it.

Makita drill

Well it sounds like this battery drill with the right torque will do the job, I spoke to the local tool dealer and will show him your examples... maybe I can try one out when I put the camper back on the truck I will let you know the results... thanks for the info

Harleybullet wrote:
I have an AF1150 and the motors are shot

Sounds like an earlier model AF, with Crappijacks...

Don't let the voltage game fool you.
Just becouse they advertise "24V" doesn't have to mean the drill will have high torque. Read the tech spec for that.
I've been using DeWalt for last 20+ years and 14V driver will shear off 1/4" bolt. I doubt you will need more torque than that.
Over the years I ended up with 4 of those drills as each time I needed new batteries, the whole set was like $20 more and available in store, when replacement batteries are always special order.
Bottom line, I made wires to power 14V driver from 12V car socket.