A/C keeps tripping from noon till dusk

myredracer I think that they are talking about the shore breaker. ???. And it is still possible that the breaker in the unit is bad or weak.

Ivans21 wrote:
Wow thank you everyone for the advise! We have a 2015 canyon cat with a dometic 13.5k ac unit . We turned off and disconnected any and all electronics (tv, chargers, lights, etc..) and it would still trip. I will start by replacing the breaker later today, I’ll keep y’all updated.

You’d be better served by checking the voltage at the pedestal before swapping a 2-3 year old breaker. You may end up needing to anyway, but you may also not solve the problem if it’s a low voltage issue.

I addition to checking voltage, clean the coils, condenser and evaporator.

Overloaded electrical source supply sure comes to mind. Simple formula is the "voltage" (line pressure) expressed in watts supplied to a 15 amp device at 120 volts being 1800 watts consumed is receiving just 100 volts of line pressure and only will receive 1500 watts at 100V, it struggles and heat builds till power cutoff or even long term motor etc burnout for an example. It wants and needs the 1800 watts!

The normal 15 amps at 120 volts now becomes 18 amps required at 100V thus due to the lower line voltage at 100V. Some refer to it as a brownout condition and worsens as line voltage continues dropping until cutoff. For example, if you were drawing 30 amps when the voltage was at 120V but it's now requiring 36 amps at 100V and something has to give and will. When the increased amperage draw exceeds the power source's fuse limit, the fused circuits trips whether at your end or at the mains and no power is received.

When do the masses of high A/C use hit the extremes in hot areas of the country? By noon and till evening of course! Easy and quick to monitor line voltage received in your adobe but not so easy to monitor voltage or amps drawn at the main source off property.

If not a voltage issue as delivered or at your A/C unit wiring line input, you likely have an A/C unit with issues or needing to be replaced.

Very unlikely a breaker problem in a 2015, and very unlikely in most cases anyway. Most likely low voltage according to the symptoms.

I highly recommend installing a permanent LED voltmeter inside. Low voltage in CGs is a very common problem, especially in hot weather like there's been all over lately. Unless you have an EMS that will shut you down automatically, when the voltage gets down to 105, you need to unplug until it goes up again. The problem can be tho., is that the voltage can go up/down quickly and you can't stand there watching the voltmeter 24/7. An EMS unit is a great investment.

If you are going to be camping where there may be low voltage, an autoformer can be an excellent tool to have and can keep you going in hot weather. Reading sites like rvparkreviews.com may give clues as to what voltage can be in various CGs.

Wow thank you everyone for the advise! We have a 2015 canyon cat with a dometic 13.5k ac unit . We turned off and disconnected any and all electronics (tv, chargers, lights, etc..) and it would still trip. I will start by replacing the breaker later today, I’ll keep y’all updated.

To really diagnose it, we would need some more info but...

10-1 as it heats up everyone's air/con starts kicking on...by noon, they are all running flat out and voltage drops due to the high demand.

As voltage drops to an electric motor, amperage goes up....pushing what may be an old outdated system until you start popping breakers.

By 7pm, the sun is going down and everyone's air/con starts to catch up and they start cycling on and off...the average draw drops and the voltage comes back up and the amp draw goes back down...then it starts working fine.

Solutions:
- Turn off any other electrical devices that you can to reduce the demand.
- If it's the pedestal breaker, a generator or a new park is really your only solution.
- If it's an internal RV breaker, consider an autofomer. They plug in at the pedestal and boost the voltage by 10-15%. This will result in the internal breakers seeing lower amperage, so they will be less likely to pop.

For $10-20 get a voltage meter that plugs into an outlet that you can easily see. Makes it easier to see what is happening rather than guess.

Mine did that several yrs ago. Replaced the breaker and no more tripping. They can get weak. Cheap and easy as a first step.

donn0128 wrote:
Check incoming voltage from the park. Guarantee you will find a low voltage situation.

This is a good place to start. Low supply voltage, brown out conditions, can lead to early breaker failure. Low voltage can also lead to compressor over heating and the high temp protection tripping the breaker. A weak starting capacitor will also give these symptoms.
Sometimes a hard starting kit is the answer. Check voltage and current as other suggested. There is also an outside chance the compressor is getting ready to fail.

Check incoming voltage from the park. Guarantee you will find a low voltage situation.