Adding a baggage door to a slideout
Ok so Im new here, Let me do the intro. My name is Shawn, you can call me Chili. Get to know me I'll tell you why. Im a Master ASE certified Technician and a Chrysler Master. I like home improvement p...
Forum Discussion
Hello Chili:
Our Rockwood 8318SS has a baggage door in the superslide that leads to the storage space under the couch.
I added another baggage door at the rear of the trailer. My door also came from ebay ($10 versus $300 at the dealer!!). I have a fiberglass trailer with vacuum bonded walls, but a quick online brochure search for your trailer did not reveal the exact wall construction. It did say there was R-7 fiberglass insulation, so that would lead me to believe it is not a vacuum bonded setup. Of course, the slide may be different. In any case, as a previous poster mentioned, cut out from the inside, just in case. If all is clear inside the wall,then cut the outside and then frame the wall. I made my framing from a 2x2 cut down to 1" x 1 1/4" to fit my wall thickness. It would be just like adding a window in a house that is already built, not as easy as having all the framing open(new build), but if you plan well (like which piece of framing to insert first, etc.)it's pretty easy. One of those better studfinders that detect wood and metal work well.
Good Luck
Steve
Our Rockwood 8318SS has a baggage door in the superslide that leads to the storage space under the couch.
I added another baggage door at the rear of the trailer. My door also came from ebay ($10 versus $300 at the dealer!!). I have a fiberglass trailer with vacuum bonded walls, but a quick online brochure search for your trailer did not reveal the exact wall construction. It did say there was R-7 fiberglass insulation, so that would lead me to believe it is not a vacuum bonded setup. Of course, the slide may be different. In any case, as a previous poster mentioned, cut out from the inside, just in case. If all is clear inside the wall,then cut the outside and then frame the wall. I made my framing from a 2x2 cut down to 1" x 1 1/4" to fit my wall thickness. It would be just like adding a window in a house that is already built, not as easy as having all the framing open(new build), but if you plan well (like which piece of framing to insert first, etc.)it's pretty easy. One of those better studfinders that detect wood and metal work well.
Good Luck
Steve
