We took our poorly insulated TC out over Thanksgiving. High 20's overnight. Furnace kept it warm enough, and roof vent kept condensation under control.I had added some reflectix underneath mattress. Seemed adequate for helping with condensation issues we had last year. It was also noticeably warmer, no cold coming up through the mattress. Plastic over windows helped too.But my side of the east/west bed is up against the front cap. I didn't feel any cold coming through the wall, but the entire left side of my sleeping bag was soaked from touching the wall.Has anyone added reflectix just up that first part? I hesitate to add anything thicker (like rigid foam insulation) b/c the space is so limited. Even if I have to pull it out after each trip and run the dehumidifier it would be better than getting the bedding wet.Our winter trips will only be for 1 or 2 nights...

I was adding some Styrofoam insulation to my Fleetwood camper during repairs. Even the upscale camper, with aluminium frame had cheap fiberglass for insulation. Fiberglass not only has lousy R value, but in camper usually falls down the wall cavity, leaving no insulation on upper part of the wall. In your case I would save Styrofoam packing from the boxes you might have and just stuck the foam against the wall for night. Polyurethane foam has even better R value and you can buy it at HD with aluminium liner on it.

P.S. I tried to get DH to install a Wave heater to help with battery use boondocking, but he declined b/c "The furnace will be fine for one night, Dear. For crying out loud, it's only 2 years old, let's use it first before we start adding expensive mods!"LOL, he's a light sleeper, and after waking up every time the furnace kicked on (and sweating his buns off when it overshot thermostat control, yet another mod he declined to help me with... adding a Honeywell digital thermostat) he admitted that maybe a Wave is in our future.

The digital thermostats I know require 24V AC power supply. Are you talking battery-operated one? This doesn't have to be advantage to mechanical thermostat, that suppose to have adjustment for range of kick-in/outCamper furnace also keeps your holding tank from freezing. Add-on heater will not.

Yes, there is battery operated digital T-stat, IIRC. It would be nice to be able to program it. The current one only has that "low end - high end" picture type adjustment... no numbers. Really, really hard to get it set to a comfortable temp.My 9 gallon fresh tank is in the front step area anyway, so "inside". No basement, but we don't use water system in winter. And it has a 5 gallon porta potty. Which makes winter camping a breeze.

Not everything what looks better first seen will turn better on long run. When I understand frustration of first time setting of thermostat with no clear scale, now you know how to do it. On the other hand the thermostat beeping at 1 AM becouse of low battery can hardly be beaten on irritation scale.... even if you have spare batteries. .....

Adding Insulation to Cabover | Good Sam Community

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Dec 07, 2015
Not everything what looks better first seen will turn better on long run.
When I understand frustration of first time setting of thermostat with no clear scale, now you know how to do it.
On the other hand the thermostat beeping at 1 AM becouse of low battery can hardly be beaten on irritation scale.... even if you have spare batteries. .....
Stars101
Explorer
Dec 07, 2015
Yes, there is battery operated digital T-stat, IIRC. It would be nice to be able to program it. The current one only has that "low end - high end" picture type adjustment... no numbers. Really, really hard to get it set to a comfortable temp.

My 9 gallon fresh tank is in the front step area anyway, so "inside". No basement, but we don't use water system in winter. And it has a 5 gallon porta potty. Which makes winter camping a breeze.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Dec 07, 2015
The digital thermostats I know require 24V AC power supply.
Are you talking battery-operated one? This doesn't have to be advantage to mechanical thermostat, that suppose to have adjustment for range of kick-in/out
Camper furnace also keeps your holding tank from freezing. Add-on heater will not.
Stars101
Explorer
Dec 07, 2015
P.S. I tried to get DH to install a Wave heater to help with battery use boondocking, but he declined b/c "The furnace will be fine for one night, Dear. For crying out loud, it's only 2 years old, let's use it first before we start adding expensive mods!"

LOL, he's a light sleeper, and after waking up every time the furnace kicked on (and sweating his buns off when it overshot thermostat control, yet another mod he declined to help me with... adding a Honeywell digital thermostat) he admitted that maybe a Wave is in our future.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Dec 07, 2015
I was adding some Styrofoam insulation to my Fleetwood camper during repairs.
Even the upscale camper, with aluminium frame had cheap fiberglass for insulation.
Fiberglass not only has lousy R value, but in camper usually falls down the wall cavity, leaving no insulation on upper part of the wall.
In your case I would save Styrofoam packing from the boxes you might have and just stuck the foam against the wall for night.
Polyurethane foam has even better R value and you can buy it at HD with aluminium liner on it.

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