vtraudt wrote:
Thanks for the input (qualified or guts feeling/opinion).
Some thoughts:
Flex: if the frame flexes so much, every time I push it up with the front jack, it will flex (actually same or worse than putting one jack for example at 3/4 point in the rear)
It's yours you can do what you want.
When you lift the front normally the whole house/frame pivot as a unit on the suspension. Your added jack would stop that pivot, and extend the span. (lay a 2X10 on supports 6 feet apart, walk on it. Now put the supports 10 feet apart. Feel the bounce?)
Flex: dynamic flex (bouncing up/down during thousands of miles) would completley desintegrade the house if static lift is flexing so much that i might cause damage.
First, miles do show on a TT. But the design expects force applied upward from the suspension and tongue. That force increases and decreases, but the location does not change.
I will do a trial run (already have a hydraulic jack on hand) and lifting one axle at a time to put boards under the tires (or put a jack stand under the axle) to level. Reason for investigating the frame lift option: axles not easily accessible for jacking up.
Axles are not accessible True. But IMHO, the frame ain't much better. OTOH, placing a board is much easier, and moving the trailer is a piece of chicken.
Using FRAME near AXLE: best of both worlds? Same stress to chassis, yet better accessible than axle. Will try this FIRST (tailer in driveway, tilting terrible to one side).
The frame near where suspension mounts is a good place to jack, but will not do much to stabilize
HAVE to get one (two) of those 'curved' and 'scaled' levels (thanks for the link!).
The vial in all levels is curved. I started with that kind, but prefer adding my marks so I don't need to convert inches to blocks. Years of pulling a enddump, I normally park where it's level, then ask wife if there is a better place.
The issues most have with leveling on blocks or boards are pretty easy to solve. Ramp moves when backing on; Often just unplug light cord so trailer brakes don't work. Or it might be the ramp is too steep for size of tires. Cut better angle, or bolt rubber flap so weight holds ramp in place when start up.
The height of ramp is wrong when get on it. Built wrong height? Solved with calibrated level. Or as often, decide need 1 block, place block someplace else. When get in that place, need 2. This is solved by moving trailer, building ramp, then return to that spot.
Huntindog wrote:
There is more to this than what meets the eye.
Most trailer frames are "cambered".
Thank you. And I bet that the trailers that have powered leveling the frame is designed from jump, it is not just added on.
