vtraudt wrote:
I will use this method when 'driving back/forth' (potentially several times) is not an option. And certainly in my driveway (car/trailer under angle, incline and more than 4 inches to level sideways.
I can't stand under the "potentially several times". Once to see how much lift is needed, the 2nd time to put it on the ramp. You're done.
If I needed ramp in my drive, I would bolt it together, and leave it home. Of course, if I need 4 inches when I get home from last trip, I assume I will need 4 this time.
(I have a pair of rubber mud flaps, with a 4X4 bolted to 1 end, and a 2X4 spaced right, and bolted to other side. They stay in the thinly graveled drive. I back in until trailer goes over the 2X and stops against 4X. Chocks on both sides of both wheels, the jack goes down on the 6 inch long 2X6. With the tires sitting on rubber, no need to get weedeater close to tires.
BB_TX wrote:
My simple brain looks at the whole frame bending thing in a much more simple way. An RV trailer sitting on dual axles is going to have 6-8-10’ hanging out past the rear axle. The weight supported by and spread over four suspension points on each side. And the weight of the RV is going to cause that rear cantilevered overhang portion to sag downward.
Now put jacks near the rear of the trailer and raise those jacks to level the trailer and that new upward force at the rear is going to start taking weigh off the suspension, and instead transfer that weight to the rear of the frame. Now the center of the frame with less support will tend to sag downward due to the transfer of points supporting that weight.
Lift at one rear corner more than the other and the frame will tend to twist.
What is wrong with that simple view point? Doesn’t need a discussion of gravity.
Thank you.
