Air Filters For Your Trucks

4x4ord wrote:
I can’t remember the last time I changed an air filter on a pick up. If the air restriction indicator were to ever get close to red I’d take a look at the filter and depending on what it’s plugged with I might consider lightly blowing the filter out with compressed air and throwing it back in again. I believe a dirty filter does a better job of filtering than a new one.

This is correct. A dirty filter actually does a better job at catching contaminants than a clean one. It just has less flow than a clean one.

I can’t remember the last time I changed an air filter on a pick up. If the air restriction indicator were to ever get close to red I’d take a look at the filter and depending on what it’s plugged with I might consider lightly blowing the filter out with compressed air and throwing it back in again. I believe a dirty filter does a better job of filtering than a new one.

SweetLou wrote:
No one here even mentions Wix. Why?

Wix. Good filters too. This is not a connundrum but rather a 5 minute maintenance item. Go to the store, buy a filter, install it, it will be good.

No one here even mentions Wix. Why?

ksss wrote:

blt2ski wrote:
K&N is a bad choice be it gaz or deezal! As noted, it not bad at filtering. It's the oils that get on the sensors after it. Like you MAF, manifold pressure sensor etc. That's the issues you will have. Especially if you over oil the filter.
Better to use best quality paper AF you can get ahold of.

Marty

True story, my MAF got oil on it and sent a code on my LB7 years ago.

Most codes were not due to oil on the sensor. It was from the sensor being out of range. Most sensors back in those days were narrow band sensors meaning they only read a narrow range and anything out of that range(like more air) threw a code because it would mean that the truck had to guess on how much fuel to add. You do not have the same issue with todays wide band sensors that have much larger ranges.

If auto manufacturers were so worried about oil in MAF or MAP sensors, then they would not sometimes put them after the oil dump for the positive crank case ventilation or the EGR valve which introduces spend exhaust gas. I can guarantee that these two things would put these sensors through more oil and contamination than an oil bathed filter would.

This was my MAP sensor on my BMW diesel car. It was located in the intake after the EGR and oil dump, and all that black oily soot on my fingers came from the sensor. Nothing wrong with it. I just cleaned it and put it back.

to avoid fake parts from the interwebs I use filters bought in person:

Fleetguard filters for my Cummins'sz, in the latest supercession part number, from a Cummins Filtration dealer,

Toyota filters from the dealer for that pickup

Motorcraft filters from the dealer that pickup

Watch the you toob videos "Air Filters in the Nuclear Age" parts one and two

blt2ski wrote:
K&N is a bad choice be it gaz or deezal! As noted, it not bad at filtering. It's the oils that get on the sensors after it. Like you MAF, manifold pressure sensor etc. That's the issues you will have. Especially if you over oil the filter.
Better to use best quality paper AF you can get ahold of.

Marty

True story, my MAF got oil on it and sent a code on my LB7 years ago.

OEM delco for my duramax. mutiple tests show it is the best at filtering and while it has slightly more restriction than some others, not enough to make any difference in performance.

K&N is trash and will dust your motor.

Mine trucks old school and just run a 4" tube off the turbo to a dry MHAF.

Motorcraft(OEM) filters is all I use (air, oil, fuel filters) with 220k miles and my Powerstroke still hasn't been touched.

I remember watching a video were a mechanic was showing how a aftermarket air filter was dismantled because it couldn't handle the amount of air volume the Powerstroke pulls through it.