Amsoil OE Synthetic

Update....

UOA kit received, used Amsoil is now packaged and ready for its trip to Blackstone.

Will post the results once the Labs are back.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Amsoil is a great lubricant. There are also many great alternatives at Walmart priced very well. I use Amsoil in some of my toys.

My JeT skis live a much harder life than most of the tow vehicles on this forum. One is a Turbo Charged Honda with 546 hours, and some mods to up the boost. No problems to report. The other one is a Supercharged Seadoo with only 100 hours, but it's been solid so far, and the Supercharger design is somewhat fragile on those. The S/C works using Wet Clutches. I believe Amsoil has helped in that area.

Ben,
Regarding your observation of your oil pressure, for sure, if you're seeing a drop, I too in your position would be thinking similar to how you do.
I don't see any change in pressure on the Nissan, other than for instance if I accidentally get the clutch out a bit too quickly from start, and the revs drop below what a normal idle would be. If I do that, yes the gauge drops momentarily.
But under normal use, even when the engine is fully up to temp, even at normal idle ( 750 rpm ), the oil pressure is always at the same place on the dial, no matter how many miles on the oil, etc.

As to "oil consumption", I've had engines over the years that used some oil ( two different big block GM engines, a 455 Buick and a 396 Chev )....and a few motorcycle engines that also used some. Other engines I've had used zero oil from new to when I sold them on. Go figure. In my case, all I can say was I broke them all in the same way, so I don't know why they were different. Back in the day, it was pretty common for big block GM's too use some oil. I never worried about it....just topped them up when they were a pint low, and drove them. Hard ( I was young and stupid. Now I'm old and stupid.... ).

Regarding shearing down of oil, I can say the following:

1. Nissan Frontier, VQ 4.0L gas V6
2. Mobil One 5W-30
3. Three different Blackstone lab reports.
3a. cST viscosity at 212 degrees F "should be" 8.8-11.1
Mine were, on the three tests, 10.91, 8.94 and 9.84.
Oil change intervals for these three reports were 6000 miles, 6500 miles, 5000 miles.

TBN test was done on two of the three tests, and both times indicated the additive package was holding up, meaning the oil "could" have gone longer.

So....from this, I have concluded that 5W-30 is a good match for this engine, and that at least in this engine, the way I use it, Mobil One does not shear down and lose viscosity. No makeup oil has ever been added between oil changes ( none needed ).

I don't "abuse" the engine, but I don't baby it either. I lean on it fairly hard, fairly often. I like winding it out through the gears ( 6 speed manual ), so it sees some mid to higher rpm, heavy throttle use regularly.
I also tow with it fairly often, either the camper, or the two horse bumper pull. I work it.

Let's see your lab tests results Fishy, and please include what oil it is, viscosity, and number of miles. Be specific in giving example of how your viscosity is or is not holding up.

A 0w30 and a 5w30 is not as shear resistance as a 10w30

Just my personal opinion based on experience over time...

Generally...I beat the snoot out of my ICE's...except for the sedans, but
she got them after the divorce...

Really noticed it when tried the Mobil 1 0W-30 by accident...bought
a case from Costco (normally buy mine on line) and didn't check...just
took a case from the 10W-30 pile...

Had tried 5W-30 on purpose before and didn't like it. The 0W-30
displayed the same behavior...but sooner

What I notice is that the dash oil PSI gauge will drop sooner in
mileage than 'normal' for me. It will also fluctuate where it does
not with the 10W-30.

The biggie for me is that when driven really, really hard (both
throttle and towing heavy)...it will start to consume oil...where as
my 7.4L normally does NOT

Just my opinion...

gmw photos wrote:
snip....


Ben, I'm generally in agreement with most of what you post here, however, regarding "thin" viscosity oil, I'm going to respectfully disagree. As a disclaimer, I will admit that over the years ( many years ago ) I have used a lot of Castrol GTX 20W-50 in various water cooled and air cooled motorcycle engines, and a few cars/trucks. I'm also old enough, and was lucky enough to have spent time on a crew working on "super modifieds" ( the precursor to Sprint cars ) and I've poured a lot of good old Kendall GT1 straight 50 back in the late 1960's. Point is, I too am one who has used a lot "heavier" oils.

However, in today's world, light vis oils rule. As an example, in my Nissan VQ series engine, there are some "very tiny" oil galleys, and if a person runs a heavier oil, you are almost assured of starving some parts of oil until the oil is fully warmed up. Nissan is adamant about 5W-30 in this series engine. Not necessarily synthetic, but for sure on the weight. So my "compromise", since I am essentially forced to use light vis oil, is to not only do that, but I up the game to synthetic.
Working so far.

EDIT. PS....before anyone goes and starts making quotes about how certain "racing teams" use a certain oil....yada, yada.....my comment is, don't even go there. That's a different world, those engines are built for different purposes, and assembled to different tolerances, and besides the oil gets "changed" very, very often. It really just does not compare well to street use, even towing use.

FishOnOne wrote:

philh wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
I collected a sample of the Amsoil in a sealed glass container and have set it aside for the Oil Analysis. (the kit is not back yet) I will change the oil in about 5,000-7,000 miles and collect a sample of the PYB oil so we can compare the two.

Same test.. similar conditions.

Jeremiah

I did the same thing with a custom designed oil that makes Amsoil look like cheap mud.

funny thing, Mobile 1 Extended Life actually had LOWER metal wear rates. Snake oil salesman tried to convince me that his product permanently changed the molecular structure of the metal.

BITOG rocks the world :)

I changed the oil in my wifes Edge Sport today using Mobil One Extended Performance. Oil cost $8.98/quart and I plan to run it the full 10k interval this time after a couple of short intervals to flush out break in wear metals.

And if you care about trying to buy that a little cheaper, it's $5.73/qt in a five qt container at walmart

DirtyOil wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

philh wrote:

proxim2020 wrote:
I did Amsoil in my truck from day one for the first couple of years. I started to question is it worth it when it was time to renew my membership with Amsoil. I started comparing a ton of UOAs over on BITOG. Turns out Walmart's Supertech Synthetic is a pretty dang good oil. Some were ranking it up there with the overpriced Royal Purple. I switched over and immediately noticed the Hemi tick was finally gone. It was very clear with the Amsoil. A little over 80k later, everything is still humming along just fine on Supertech. I got the bike off of Amsoil and moved that over to T6.

IRC, Supertech is the same as Shell.

Hemi tic is suspected to be a stuck valve retainer that no longer rotates bringing fresh oil to cushion and lubricate. Some oils seem to do a better job on unsticking the retainer.

Supertech is manufactured by Warren Oil.

Also I believe oil with lot's of Boron help quite the "Infamous Hemi Tick".

I believe issues with Fords are rectified by purchasing a new one, hence reason Ford F series outsell other brands. ;)

I really love this Pentastar V6... When we get our Truck it will probably be a Crew cab Pentastar Ram with 3.55 gears and 305 hp... Lol

Thanks!

Jeremiah

FishOnOne wrote:

philh wrote:

proxim2020 wrote:
I did Amsoil in my truck from day one for the first couple of years. I started to question is it worth it when it was time to renew my membership with Amsoil. I started comparing a ton of UOAs over on BITOG. Turns out Walmart's Supertech Synthetic is a pretty dang good oil. Some were ranking it up there with the overpriced Royal Purple. I switched over and immediately noticed the Hemi tick was finally gone. It was very clear with the Amsoil. A little over 80k later, everything is still humming along just fine on Supertech. I got the bike off of Amsoil and moved that over to T6.

IRC, Supertech is the same as Shell.

Hemi tic is suspected to be a stuck valve retainer that no longer rotates bringing fresh oil to cushion and lubricate. Some oils seem to do a better job on unsticking the retainer.

Supertech is manufactured by Warren Oil.

Also I believe oil with lot's of Boron help quite the "Infamous Hemi Tick".

I believe issues with Fords are rectified by purchasing a new one, hence reason Ford F series outsell other brands. ;)

philh wrote:

proxim2020 wrote:
I did Amsoil in my truck from day one for the first couple of years. I started to question is it worth it when it was time to renew my membership with Amsoil. I started comparing a ton of UOAs over on BITOG. Turns out Walmart's Supertech Synthetic is a pretty dang good oil. Some were ranking it up there with the overpriced Royal Purple. I switched over and immediately noticed the Hemi tick was finally gone. It was very clear with the Amsoil. A little over 80k later, everything is still humming along just fine on Supertech. I got the bike off of Amsoil and moved that over to T6.

IRC, Supertech is the same as Shell.

Hemi tic is suspected to be a stuck valve retainer that no longer rotates bringing fresh oil to cushion and lubricate. Some oils seem to do a better job on unsticking the retainer.

Supertech is manufactured by Warren Oil.

Also I believe oil with lot's of Boron help quite the "Infamous Hemi Tick".