Update: getting fitted up!
The list as it is now:
* Can wait until whenever - Install vinyl flooring in front storage compartment.
* Is OK for now - will play with it when camping (maybe) - Adjust slide-out
* Done!- Test water heater. After failing because of multiple leaks, the solution was to buy a fitting at Home Depot, and switch out the rubber gasket. 30 second job, and it worked! All other leaks involved tightening gear clamps. A note on water heaters, and all the connections for pressurizing water: they need to be checked regularly!!! This is something you MUST do because mechanical fittings like these can be fine one day but after a trip, they can become loose. If you don't look inside the compartments, and under the cabinets, then you could have water damaging your RV over an extended period (and we ALL should know what that means...).
* Today - Find carriage bolts longer than 3" and install them.
* Today - Seal opening in floor under shower
* Whenever I get them - Switch all the bulbs to LEDs
* Done - well almost: just need to attached the sway bar to the frame! - Install Tension bar levelling system and anti-sway friction bar.
* Friday - Clean EVERYTHING on the exterior - interior is pretty clean now that the new floor is in.
* Maybe today: the tires look OK, and we're going to be on roads that allow 50 MPH (80 KM/H)so I think I'll wait until I get back: just don't have the time - Get 2 new tires.
As mentioned, I installed the levelling system as well as partially the anti sway system. The issue I had, was my driveway has a significant slope to it, and the instructions tell you to level your trailer. Well, one can use a level to make your trailer level, IF you are on level ground. If not, then you can use a ruler: Measure the front and back of the trailer from the lower corner: it should be parallel to the ground. Once I got it levelled, I measured the height of the receiver top as well as the bottom (it's easier to read the bottom one). In my case, I ended up with 19" for the receiver top, and 17 for the bottom. When you hitch the trailer up to the truck, you must level it off at that height before you set up your tension bars, and this is why the 17" measurement is so important(and easy to read).
The thing they say is that the truck should only sink about 1" after the load is attached. This means you have to install the ball so that the top of the ball is at 20", so that when under load it drops to 19", which is level for the trailer. This means when you are towing your trailer, it will be level, and your truck should be pretty close to level. The KEY point is that your front wheel well does NOT rise under load. If this happens, your vehicle looses traction for steering.
When you set up these bars, you have to also look at the attitude of the tension bars when under load: they must be parallel to the ground. This is adjusted by removing the receiver from the ball, undoing some of the ball assembly, and either add or remove some washers that are acting as shims, and reassemble. Yes, it's a pain in the you-know-where if it's off, because that means moving the vehicle a fraction of an inch because the ball no longer lines up the the receiver.
So, the good book tells you to choose a link in the chain based on the position of the lever when in a specific position. Mine pointed to exactly between two links, so when I chose the less tense one, I ended up with the rear (truck) wheel well falling 1.5" and the front rising 1/2". After choosing the link that would increase the tension, I got it to rear 1" down and no change on the front: yay!!!
The sway control (Notice they don't use the term "anti-sway"? This is because these devices have their limitations.) was next. As this came in a kit, there was a spot (a ball) to hitch one end of the sway control bar: that was easy. I only wish that Husky would have chosen a ball that had a shape that was easier to grab onto: it's all round, and now the chrome has scratches and dents in it from my plumber's wrench.
The other end attaches to a plate that has a ball on it. That plate has 6 screw holes that attach to the trailer frame. This is where I am at right now. Just need to drill 6 pilot holes, attach the plate, and make sure all other bolts are nice and tight. And then, just because I've never done this before, I'll bring it over to the local RV place (very nice people at 417 RV just east of Ottawa in the village of Vars on Hwy 417.) and ask them to check it over for me. :)
