Forum Discussion

PacNWChris's avatar
PacNWChris
Explorer
Jun 09, 2014

Anti-Sway WD Hitch Upgrade Ideas

Hello! I'm new to the forum as a poster. I know that the topic of hitches and anti-sway devices has been discussed before, because I've done the searches! :) I'm looking for a bit more "specific" suggestions however.

I currently have a Nissan Titan and was towing a 5,800# 256 rear lounge Springdale TT but after about 3 years, have upgraded to a 282 rear kitchen Salem Hemisphere Lite TT (6,700#). The model numbers don't do the size difference justice however ... the Salem is almost 6 feet longer. There IS an upgrade in tow vehicle planned in the future, but as of right now, there's no lack of power.

However, I do feel that the current WD, anti-sway hitch isn't quite aggressive enough at controlling sway since it doesn't prevent it from happening in the first place. We have the Reese Trunnion bar w/sway control system. (The one at the bottom of this page from Reese's website)

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=2&parentid=1600&catID=1625∂=0

Any thoughts on what could either be added to the current system, OR what could replace it? Thanks SO much!
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2014
    PacNWChris wrote:
    It *is* the system with the friction pads that the bars rest on. In my OP, I did put a link to the Reese website to show what model in case people didn't know what I was talking about.

    Anyhow, it did have to be adjusted so that it rides level with the truck, which it does now. What other adjustments could you suggest?
    That link has several products on it... If it is the one I think it is, you are correct, it is a SC, but it doesn't look all that impressive to me.
    It seems to be a half copy of the EQUALIZER's four point SC design, but missing the 2 points in the hitch head.
    This the first time I have actually seen this one.
    To get the most out of this type of hitch the adjustment is critical. The more TW you have, the more SC is possible... The catch 22 is that your TV can't handle much TW.

    I feel that this combo is trouble.

    Not sure what to advise at this point... It might help knowing how many dollars you can throw into a fix.... I will say that more money spent now, will likely be cheaper in the long run.
  • PacNWChris's avatar
    PacNWChris
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2014
    It *is* the system with the friction pads that the bars rest on. In my OP, I did put a link to the Reese website to show what model in case people didn't know what I was talking about.

    Anyhow, it did have to be adjusted so that it rides level with the truck, which it does now. What other adjustments could you suggest?
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2014
    PacNWChris wrote:


    My system now does have two of the trunnion bars, one on either side of the trailer tongue. But I know they function to resist movement AFTER it has begun. I'd rather try to prevent it in the first place.

    STOP right there. The trunion bars are NOT sway controls. They are weight distribution bars. They will help only in the fact that they return some weight to the front end of the TV. You NEED real sway controls of some type. I always suggest that newbies start with a simple friction control, or in your case probably two of them. The reason is the simple design doesn't have to be dialed in as perfectly as many of the others that incorporate WD and SC together... In short, you can miss the setup by quite a bit, and still get some benefit from them.
  • Terryallan's avatar
    Terryallan
    Explorer II
    Jun 10, 2014
    Just wondering. Did you readjust the hitch AFTER you got the new TT? With the heavier TT comes more tongue weight, and so you will need to transfer more weight with the WDH. If you did not readjust the hitch. That could be part of the problem. You could be unloading the front axle causing light steering, which some interpret as sway.
  • PacNWChris's avatar
    PacNWChris
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2014
    I haven't had a chance to take it to a scale yet for exact values, but I think the numbers state the obvious:

    GCWR = 14,600
    Truck = 5,600
    Trailer (dry) = 6,600
    Tongue (dry) = 700

    So, when this *rear kitchen* trailer is empty, the tongue weight is BARELY over 10% (10.6% to be exact - the drawback of rear kitchen TTs?)

    One fix would be moving the spare tire from the BACK bumper to the front part of the frame (there's room) near the propane tanks and batteries. I was able to weigh the tire - with a beefy rim - and mount (using a bathroom scale) and together they are almost 90 pounds!

    I still plan on taking it to a scale for more accurate numbers, but with some smarter loading, I can't imagine it wouldn't help make things safer.

    And YES ... I realize that there's not a lot of wiggle room between the TV + TT and the GCWR. A new truck isn't far off into the future, but I'm a high school teacher (ie. not much money), and am used to giving lectures ... not getting them. :) haha

    I do genuinely appreciate the responses and insight!
  • Gdetrailer's avatar
    Gdetrailer
    Explorer III
    Jun 09, 2014
    PacNWChris wrote:
    Thanks for all the input so far. I realize that the current Titan is not quite as powerful as I'd like. The 2015s are (supposedly) going to be available with a Cummins Turbo Diesel! Anyhow, I don't have the luxury of getting a new truck immediately.

    I also think that the tongue weight might be a big culprit. This thing is a rear kitchen, so the fridge, oven, microwave, and food storage are all in the rear 2-3' of the trailer. I'll have to take it to a scale and weigh it and load it properly since NO tow vehicle is going to change where the kitchen is in the trailer! :)

    In response to the reply that had the bold section, I think I was inaccurate in my OP. I didn't really experience "sway" so much as "wobble." And that occurred on a downhill with 35+MPH gusts (according to the news weather broadcasts).

    My system now does have two of the trunnion bars, one on either side of the trailer tongue. But I know they function to resist movement AFTER it has begun. I'd rather try to prevent it in the first place.

    I'll have to check on the weight numbers, I don't have them available here at work.

    Thanks SO much for the responses!


    Neither anti sway devices or WD will stop a trailer from "moving around", wobbling or bobbing under those conditions. these ARE the conditions where relying on anti sway devices without making sure it tows well will result in a poor tow or even disaster.

    Anytime you have the trailer moving about on the rear you have a weight issue. Longer heavier trailers are going to exhibit more of this especially if they have a lot of heavy items in the rear. In your case, a longer heavier trailer coupled with being on the edge of being to big for your vehicle will make this even worse.

    Before continuing, you really need to PROPERLY ASSESS your situation. The only way is to WEIGH the trailer, this will tell you a lot..

    We can only guess as it is with no real factual numbers and I am guessing you are over weight for your vehicle and/or possibly light on the tongue..
  • fla-gypsy's avatar
    fla-gypsy
    Explorer
    Jun 09, 2014
    Rear kitchen models can be very light on tongue weight which is one of the big causes of trailer sway. You need to know what the actual TW is to start with. 10% of actual trailer weight is the minimum. Once that is settled you would be a good candidate for the Reese Dual Cam system.
  • BurbMan's avatar
    BurbMan
    Explorer II
    Jun 09, 2014
    Trailer design is a big issue in trying to get the proper weight and balance on a TT. You've already gotten a few lectures here on overloading so I won't get into that, especially since you say a new TV is in the cards at some point.

    The best thing you can do make your rig safe now is to invest in a Hensley Arrow or ProPride hitch. These are the ONLY two that use the 4-bar linkage design to eliminate sway, not just control it. Click on the sticky at the top of this forum about Hensley Arrow: How does it really work to learn more of the technical details. The 2 used units that Barney provided links to are an excellent starting point.

    Many who aren't familiar with how these hitches work continue to refer to them as a "band-aid" that masks a serious problem until it's too late. This more accurately applies to hitches that use friction to control sway. More frisction controls more sway....up to a point.

    The geometry of the HA and PP hitches doesn't allow sway to happen in the first place. In order for the TT to move side-to-side it must also move forward at the same time. When towing and the hitch assembly is in tension, this is not possible. Because of this, this hitch design is also indifferent to tongue weight, so a TT with 6% tongue weight tows as stable as one with 15% tongue weight, making this design a good choice for a tail-heavy unit like yours with a rear kitchen.

    The bonus is that when you upgrade your truck, you get to keep the hitch and continue to enjoy stress-free towing.
  • PacNWChris's avatar
    PacNWChris
    Explorer
    Jun 09, 2014
    Thanks for all the input so far. I realize that the current Titan is not quite as powerful as I'd like. The 2015s are (supposedly) going to be available with a Cummins Turbo Diesel! Anyhow, I don't have the luxury of getting a new truck immediately.

    I also think that the tongue weight might be a big culprit. This thing is a rear kitchen, so the fridge, oven, microwave, and food storage are all in the rear 2-3' of the trailer. I'll have to take it to a scale and weigh it and load it properly since NO tow vehicle is going to change where the kitchen is in the trailer! :)

    In response to the reply that had the bold section, I think I was inaccurate in my OP. I didn't really experience "sway" so much as "wobble." And that occurred on a downhill with 35+MPH gusts (according to the news weather broadcasts).

    My system now does have two of the trunnion bars, one on either side of the trailer tongue. But I know they function to resist movement AFTER it has begun. I'd rather try to prevent it in the first place.

    I'll have to check on the weight numbers, I don't have them available here at work.

    Thanks SO much for the responses!
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Jun 09, 2014
    You already know that the Titan probably isn't enough truck.
    At this point the most bang for the buck will be to add another friction say control bar. I did just that a long time ago... It WILL make an improvement. And at less than 100.00 (maybe some more for installation, depending on your mechanical skills/equptment) let you save some money faster for the bigger truck.

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