Any ideas on how to get my TT from Wisconsin to Florida?

Drive it without the TT. When in an area where you can get up to speed such as getting on the expressway, you want to pay attention to how it shifts up through the gears. You dont want to enter the freeway slowly and you dont need it flat pedaled either. You want to be on it enough so that the shift points are noticeable. I know your problem is downshifting but start with this first.

It should shift from first to second relatively quickly then from second to third and finally when it's going fast enough the torque converter will lock up. The torque converter lock will not be as noticeable as the gear changes.

At about 55 or over the torque converter should be locked. If you accelerate a little it should unlock the torque converter and kick down to third gear. If you press harder it should kick down from third to second and be very noticeable. If nothing has happened floor it and see if it kicks down.

If it still doesn't kick down, slow down to 50 or so and move the gear selector to the 2 position. The engine should rev higher and the van will try to slow down. Stay on the throttle. Now move the shifter back to D and it should shift up again. Be sure no one is behind you when trying this.

After that start over doing it again but this time put the gear selector in 1 while stopped. Pay close attention to the engine speed as you start to accelerate. As it revs up and you are probably doing 15 or 20 mph move the lever to the 2 position. The up shift should be very noticeable. Stay on the throttle and when you hit about 45 or so move the shift lever to 3 or D (Drive) position and you will feel it shift again. You should have felt 2 distinct shifts (1 to 2 and 2 to 3). Continue accelerating until you feel a very another slight shift and that will be the torque converter locking up. It may be difficult to notice the torque converter lock up and it could be at 55 or 60 or so. I think a lot of those era vehicles locked at 48 or so under light throttle. If you have a tachometer you will also see these shift points, especially the converter lock up.

You are looking for it to kick down when you step on it. If it doesn't you have identified one problem. You are also trying to prove that it can be shifted manually. It could be an adjustment or it may need more serious attention which should be part of the trans rebuilders responsibility it would seem.

06Fargo wrote:
I vote with the folks saying the transmission is staying in OD / high gear when it should be downshifting to 3rd or 2nd.
What happens on a hill when you manually move the shift lever to "3" or "2"?

OK, that is going on the list of things I will be trying today. So how can I test this out from a stop on a hill? If I put it in 1st or 2nd it just shouldnt sound any different if the transmission cable isnt hooked up right?
Thanks.

I vote with the folks saying the transmission is staying in OD / high gear when it should be downshifting to 3rd or 2nd.

What happens on a hill when you manually move the shift lever to "3" or "2"?

drsolo wrote:

colliehauler wrote:
I would take the van to a mechanic that I trusted. Could be several things.

I thought I knew somebody who was a whiz, reasonably priced. He got very busy. He hired people. The quality of the work went down. Being a good mechanic is not necessarily tied to being a good supervisor or boss. I always check Angie's list, BBB. ask neighbors, ask on neighbor boards, ask online (yelp). I am still trying to find that mechanic I trust long term. I need a crystal ball I am sure.

I have a trusted mechanic and if he shut down I would be lost. If the catalytic converter is plugged you will not have very much power, happened to me with my Dodge.

It's starting to sound like the transmission has an issue with not down shifting! I would take it back and tell them what it's doing and that it was shifting and towing fine before the trans rebuild. I'm guessing they missed a seal or a valve is stuck in the valvebody, or a bad governor in the trans.

drsolo wrote:

travelnutz wrote:
Your 1992 2500 GMC van most likely has the 5.7 liter V8 and it has plenty of power to pull double the weight of your Wildwood trailer. A slim possibility your van has a smaller size V8 because few of them were ever sold in the 2500 model and usually only in the short wheel bsase version. The unknown is what rear end ratio your van has as that will make a huge difference in pulling ability. Most had the 342 or the 373 ratio as OEM. Yours, being a camper van conversion and the long body version, most likely has a 5.7 V8 with either the 342 or 373. You'd know if you purchased the van new but if bought used, who knows what may have been changed since new. The other power robber is an mostly plugged catalytic converter as your van is now 24 years old. OR the engine cylinders/rings are worn and losing compression.

We had a Chevy 2500 Deluxe Starcraft Van Conversion and had no problem pulling a 30' Nomad Century trailer loaded with options and full water plus all our food and stuff which is more than double your trailer's weight and it had the same front shape as yours which is far from aerodynamic in shape/wind bucking. I could pull the trailer at 70 anytime except up hills or long steep grades.

Have your van's engine checked and the catalytic converter also as it should pull your Wildwood at even 70 mph easily without flooring the go pedal. Something isn't right with your van and will need to be fixed anyway so you'll be paying double plus in the long run by having your Wildwood delivered since the van needs to be taken care of also.

However, remember that your trailer tires have a max speed of 65 mph even if they are 225/75/15 "D" range tires (8 ply rating and 65 psi max inflation) and less than 65 mph if they are smaller tires than those with 50 psi max.

My van is 1992 GMC G2500 vandura V-8 350 ci 4,482 lbs 3/4 ton van, max towing capacity of 6600lbs. I think it is 17' long. It was originally owned by a couple owned a garage, even stored indoors and used for camping themselves couldnt anymore due to poor health so they sold it. On my last trip to Florida I used 1 quart of oil. I have always been careful having checkups twice a year and right before trips. Now the last time I was in Florida my muffler went and I had a guy make a new one "on the spot" and he said the catalytic was in bad shape, did I need it to pass inspections and I told him I didnt anymore. Nobody has said anything about the catalytic converter since then. I use the van during the year around town, but I am retired so dont put much mileage on it. It now has 139k miles. The mechanics say it is in great shape. When we went over the mountains west 2 summers ago pulling the teardrop I did need to downshift to 2nd to get up and down some of those steeper grades. I only carry 4 gallons of water in the van, the trailer is empty. My van tires are new this year, the trailer tires are new and ST 205/75/R15. In any case I like to cruise at 60 mph which seems most comfortable speed for me and best gas mileage.
We went to the closest truck scales to get the van and trailer weighed and weighed both together. I know I should have separated the two, but it was cold, the scales were icy and I was slipping just getting onto the scales. I am not sure how this breaks down into van and trailer. Van is 4482, trailer is 3995 according to specs.
steer axle 2740
drive axle 4140
trailer axle 4100
total 10980

You are grossly UNDERESTIMATING the weight of the VAN AND the trailer.

With the weights posted above, your VAN weight with the tongue weight is 6880 lbs..

I suspect your van weighs considerably MORE than 4482 lbs since I doubt your tongue is 2398 lbs!

Conversion vans are notorious for having very low towing/cargo weights due to the conversion process ADDING a lot of weight to the van (added weight to the van takes away your available cargo weight and your tongue IS considered cargo of the van)..

10,980 lbs combination PLUS less aerodynamics of a bigger trailer is most likely the problem.. I would suspect that is a bit to high of a weight for your van/engine/gear ratio..

To get back to your original question of haulers, YES there ARE HAULERS who will hitch up your trailer to their vehicle and tow it places for you. BUT, it does not come cheap to do so.

Contact your local RV dealer and ask if they can get you a list of haulers that may help you.

BUT, personally.. SELL the trailer where it is and BUY ONE IN FLORIDA..

The cost to haul one to Florida is going to be pretty expensive and I am sure you could easily find some used trailers already in Florida at a reasonable cost.

THere are a variety of reasons why someone doesn't trust a repair facility, most of them intrinsic to the industry. I worked as a wrench for more than a few years and auto service was the most troublesome regarding customer service/satisfaction. Overall, I'd say the service/repair business is better than it was when I was skinning my knuckles, some of that has to do with the quality of the modern vehicles.

I believe the best choice can be made by recommendation of local friends and family.

colliehauler wrote:
I would take the van to a mechanic that I trusted. Could be several things.

I thought I knew somebody who was a whiz, reasonably priced. He got very busy. He hired people. The quality of the work went down. Being a good mechanic is not necessarily tied to being a good supervisor or boss. I always check Angie's list, BBB. ask neighbors, ask on neighbor boards, ask online (yelp). I am still trying to find that mechanic I trust long term. I need a crystal ball I am sure.

I would take the van to a mechanic that I trusted. Could be several things.

smkettner wrote:
Does the van downshift and rev up a bit when climbing those hills at 50 mph?
Have the transmission shop drive it with the trailer.

No, in cruise it just slows down until I press down on the gas and at least it does stop slowing down, but not accelerating and I dont think it downshifts at all. If I have my foot really down on the accelerator I can gradually pick up some speed but it doesnt downshift that I am aware of. I havent tried it without the trailer behind it. Now I dont jack rabbit from stop signs, but with the Mazda protege when I step down, like if I was going to pass someone it would really snap my head back. I will have to get the van out onto cleared roads and see if it still has any oomph without the trailer.