We just purchased a small 2014 Jayco 22FB TT with tandem 3,500lb axles, an empty weight of 4503lb, tongue weight of 510lbs (according to the specs). I'm towing with a 2013 Nissan Armada with a 9100lb towing capacity, 910lb tongue weight rating, 15100lb GCVWR and auto leveling rear air bags. I have a friction sway bar also. We will just use it for short trips so it shouldn't be loaded up with a lot of junk. However, it does carry 90 gallons of water directly over the axles. I will probably limit the water load to about half full or around 400 pounds but since it's directly over the axles it should not impact tongue weight. Is there any reason I should consider adding a WDH to the mix?I have only towed it for about 20 miles home from the dealer so I don't really know how it will tow in the long run. Didn't hardly know it was back there on the way from the dealer.

Question asked yesterday and going in this thread:LinkYou can also use the search function.

If you hit hard cross winds or bumps just right it starts going out of control you flip after look at your family if your alive and ask that question

newman fulltimer wrote:If you hit hard cross winds or bumps just right it starts going out of control you flip after look at your family if your alive and ask that questionVery dramatic statement but of no real value. Do you have a point, recommendation or suggestion regarding my question?

I would think that 910 lbs. of tongue weight, would be figuring the use of a WDH. Most Lt duty trucks are only rated for 5-6 hundred lbs. non-WDH, and about 1K-1.2K with WDH.IMHO, I think you would be happier with a WDH, unless you drive slow, and only short distances.Jerry

He is saying the hitch rating is 910 lbs for the tongue weight. Yes I would definitely use a WD hitch. 4500lbs dry weight will be around 5500lbs ready to travel. yes it will weigh that much when loaded for a trip! so a loaded 5500 lb TT will have a tongue weight around 700lbs of tongue weight. I would get a WD hitch rated at 800/8000lbs.

Any Reason To Get A WDH? | Good Sam Community

hohenwald48
Explorer
Apr 19, 2015
hohenwald48 wrote:
We just purchased a small 2014 Jayco 22FB TT with tandem 3,500lb axles, an empty weight of 4503lb, tongue weight of 510lbs (according to the specs). I'm towing with a 2013 Nissan Armada with a 9100lb towing capacity, 910lb tongue weight rating, 15100lb GCVWR and auto leveling rear air bags. I have a friction sway bar also. We will just use it for short trips so it shouldn't be loaded up with a lot of junk. However, it does carry 90 gallons of water directly over the axles. I will probably limit the water load to about half full or around 400 pounds but since it's directly over the axles it should not impact tongue weight.

Is there any reason I should consider adding a WDH to the mix?

I have only towed it for about 20 miles home from the dealer so I don't really know how it will tow in the long run. Didn't hardly know it was back there on the way from the dealer.

OK folks you convinced me. I picked up a Eaz-Lift round bar 1,000/10,000 WDH at Camping World and intend to use my existing friction sway control. I know there are probably better systems out there. However, since I'm towing at about half of what my TV ratings are I didn't think I would need the very best top of the line hitch/sway system. Thanks for all the information and input and I'll post back after I've had a chance to see how things work.
hohenwald48
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
GaryWT wrote:
I was always taught once you go over a popup you should use a wdh. If you have sway control, what are you connecting it to if you don't have a wdh?
The drawbar has an arm out to one side with a ball (about 1" ball) and then there is another ball mounted on the side of the trailer A frame. An adjustable friction device is connected between the two balls. I've been using that kind for years on my covered utility trailer and it's been working just fine. They sell them at Camping World. I think just about every hitch manufacturer makes one.
coolbreeze01
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
The Blue Ox is really easy to set up. Clean, quiet, simple, and effective.
Huntindog
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
hohenwald48 wrote:
OK. I read the primer that APT referenced and things make a lot more sense now. I always thought a WDH took tongue weight and put it on the TV front axle and TT axles. I see now that it is actually taking load off the TV rear axle and placing that load on the TV front axle and on the TT axles. Tongue weight doesn't change but rear axle load does. The airbags do nothing to transfer weight but simply raise the body higher off the rear axle but do not vary the rear axle loading.

Having said all that, the GCVWR of the Armada is 15,100. However, the GVWR of the Armada is 7150 and the GVWR of the TT is 6500 for a total combined weight of 13,650 to be distributed over the total of all four axles. The load carrying capacity of the Armada is 1488 and on and on with various weights and capacities.

At any rate, I think the light bulb (small as it may be) has clicked in my head and I'm sure I can do the math to make sure I don't overload a vehicle/axle/tire/combo. I believe a WDH is in my future.

How do I go about picking one? Do they come in different sizes/ratings? Are some easier to manage than others? As far as setting it up I guess I will probably simply pull the fuse (there has to be one somewhere) to the rear airbags until I get the bars adjusted. Any other suggestions are welcome.

Maybe I'll just go back to my Monaco DP motorhome. I'm getting a headache from all this thinking.

I am late to the party, but glad you got it sorted out.
I have a 1 ton dually, and if my WD isn't adjusted perfect, I can tell. But I am admittadly picky about my setup.

My point here is to be sure you get it adjusted right. There are stickys on this that are very good. Many of the factory air leveling systems have a way to temporairily turn them off. Or as you said a fuse can be pulled for the setup process.

Happy camping
TomG2
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
GaryWT wrote:
I was always taught once you go over a popup you should use a wdh. If you have sway control, what are you connecting it to if you don't have a wdh?

Although, I think the OP needs a Weight Distributing hitch, Reese® - Sway Control Adapter Brackets are available for those that don't.
TomG2
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
For starters, I cannot imagine a situation where a modern, well-engineered, and properly adjusted weight distributing hitch would do any harm. So, get one. I always suggest getting actual weights before going too far. In your case, any of the popular brands should give you good results. I too like the Andersen, but it may be a little light duty for your application.
GaryWT
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
I was always taught once you go over a popup you should use a wdh. If you have sway control, what are you connecting it to if you don't have a wdh?
handye9
Explorer II
Apr 17, 2015
hohenwald48 wrote:
How do I go about picking one? Do they come in different sizes/ratings? Are some easier to manage than others? As far as setting it up I guess I will probably simply pull the fuse (there has to be one somewhere) to the rear airbags until I get the bars adjusted. Any other suggestions are welcome.

Maybe I'll just go back to my Monaco DP motorhome. I'm getting a headache from all this thinking.

They do come in different weight ratings. Different manufacturers have different weight increments.

Arguing various brands, is like arguing Chevy, Dodge, Ford. Everybody has their preference, and will tell you the best one is the one they currently have. Some can be had for a little over 300.00. Some will be like buying a used car.

I have had / used Andersen, BlueOx, Drawtite, and Reese. The Andersen and BlueOx have built in sway control, the others did not.

In my earlier reply, I recommended you look at Andersen, mostly because of your tow vehicle being an SUV. There are some states /municipalities where it is not leagl to leave your weight distribution hitch sticking out of your receiver, when not towing. It's also quite painful, running your shins into it. So, when running around town, where do you put it?

Many WDH brands, require greasing the ball and trunion bar ends. Kind of messy to throw that in back of your car. The average weight on the other WDH brands is 80 - 100 lbs.

The Andersen hitch weighs 60 lbs (including the parts that stay mounted on the trailer) and doesn't require any grease or oil, on any parts. Go ahead and throw it in the car, you can clean up with a vaccum cleaner. Andersen hitch has an "up to" rating of 1400 lbs tongue weight / 14000 lbs gross trailer weight.

For the air bag system, is it not disabled when vehicle is turned off? If so, line up the ball and trailer coupler, turn off the car, set the trailer down on ball, latch coupler, adjust WDH, and re-start the car.
My_Roadtrek
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
Lots of opinions on WDH, but I, and many others here, like the Blue Ox Sway Pro. It's well made, easy to adjust, easy to remove, and the bars stay clean.
There is an instalation video in the link.

Blue Ox Sway Pro

For a brake controller The Direct Link is one of the best, little expensive, but in my opinion worth it. It syncs with the TV computer, and configures the braking automatically. Of course there are other good less costly manual controllers.
Direct Link
gmckenzie
Explorer
Apr 17, 2015
hohenwald48 wrote:

How do I go about picking one? Do they come in different sizes/ratings? Are some easier to manage than others?

Yes. They come in different weight ratings. You sound like you need an 800/8000 lb setup. Doubt you need the fancy sway control, but the Anderson someone suggested would be a good choice (anyone know kinda the upper limit for the Anderson?). It's light, easier to store and not hard to set up (from what I have heard). Or just go with the cheap Husky one and see whether or not you need a sway control later.

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