Anything other than silicone..

Bobbo wrote:

4x4van wrote:

rerod wrote:
Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old :h...

Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.

And, you can believe everything you read on the internet. Including on this forum.

So you seal your RV exterior with silicone caulking, or replying to hear yerself speak.

Bottom line, don't use silicone, use a urethane product or something intended for the use.

JIMNLIN wrote:
Simply put ...far more people have had issues with certain types of silicone's than have had good luck with them.

We also have service experts tell us what they found works and what didn't.

Not all silicone is the same.
See my reply above for a explanation why some silicone products stick and other didn't.

Acetoxy vs natural cure silicone....there is a difference in adhesion quality according to the pros that use sealants in their line of business.

And yet I've never seen the words "Acetoxy" or "natural cure" on a tube of silicone. I've always bought simple "100% Silicone" (not "siliconized caulk"), and it has indeed smelled like vinegar. Yet your description suggests that is not what should be used outdoors, and you really don't clarify which one will (or won't) stick to itself. :S

Simply put ...far more people have had issues with certain types of silicone's than have had good luck with them.

We also have service experts tell us what they found works and what didn't.

Not all silicone is the same.
See my reply above for a explanation why some silicone products stick and other didn't.

Acetoxy vs natural cure silicone....there is a difference in adhesion quality according to the pros that use sealants in their line of business.

Not sure what to tell you all, but on my last 2 RV's, I used plain old Silicone for the roof seams exclusively for about 22 years. Never removed the old, simply went up yearly and touched up any areas that looked suspect (after cleaning with a wet rag). Never had a leak over that 22 years. Never had a problem with the new silicone sticking to the old silicone.

It wasn't until about 6-7 years ago that I started using Dicor, after I found out(?) from numerous forums that silicone shouldn't/couldn't/wouldn't/WON'T work, the RV will leak like crazy if it comes anywhere near silicone, especially the next time time you try to add silicone, not to mention that you will NEVER get all of it off in order to seal it RIGHT (with Dicor)!

Sorry, but that just hasn't been my experience. And it seems that I usually had fewer areas to touch up each year when I was using silicone that I have using Dicor. So I have to wonder why we are all convinced that Dicor is the holy grail of RV sealants? :h

Read the comment by Wyaj78

As someone who worked in the maritime industry for 20 years doing most everything you can imagine the answer is a resounding no. My first rule is to NEVER use silicone period. It’s a contaminant more than it is a sealant. I’ve never experienced it sticking to itself with any success... ever. I haven’t ever seen it not fail either.

When sealing anything the number one rule is to over prep the area you’re going to seal. This includes roughing up the surfaces and cleaning it of any oils before you continue. Removing existing silicone is extremely labor intensive. Sure, the bulk is removed easy enough but what’s penetrated into the surface area is fairly permanent creating a big problem because it won’t stick to its self let alone anything else.


Link

Bobbo wrote:

4x4van wrote:

rerod wrote:
Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old :h...

Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.

And, you can believe everything you read on the internet. Including on this forum.

JIMNLIN wrote:

Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it.

Depends on the type of silicone being used.

What is the difference between acetoxy and neutral cure silicone?

***As acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid whilst curing they can cause problems when used on certain substrates.
When used on natural stone they can cause discolouration, when used on certain metals they can cause corrosion and on bituminous surfaces they can cause "bleeding" of the bitumen.

So when applying sealant to sensitive surfaces we would always recommend using a neutral cure silicone over a acetoxy silicone as they will not react.

Generally acetoxy silicones are used for kitchens, bathrooms and other internal sealing applications as they are more cost effective and faster curing than their neutral curing counterparts.

Whereas **neutral cure silicones have better adhesion and weatherproofing properties** compared to acetoxy silicones making them the superior option for external applications.***

I should have said, once silicone has cured, new silicone will not stick or seal to it..

Are you saying neutral cure silicone once cured, will allow new neutral cure silicone to seal to it?

link to tile forum

Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it.

Depends on the type of silicone being used.

What is the difference between acetoxy and neutral cure silicone?

***As acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid whilst curing they can cause problems when used on certain substrates.
When used on natural stone they can cause discolouration, when used on certain metals they can cause corrosion and on bituminous surfaces they can cause "bleeding" of the bitumen.

So when applying sealant to sensitive surfaces we would always recommend using a neutral cure silicone over a acetoxy silicone as they will not react.

Generally acetoxy silicones are used for kitchens, bathrooms and other internal sealing applications as they are more cost effective and faster curing than their neutral curing counterparts.

Whereas **neutral cure silicones have better adhesion and weatherproofing properties** compared to acetoxy silicones making them the superior option for external applications.***

Which type of caulk can you remove with a solvent and elbow grease, and also allow you to apply it over itself and be water tight?

All I've ever used on my 1997 32' 5th wheel trailer is Dicor self leveling on the roof and their non sag Dicor on vertical surfaces.
Good sealants don't remove easily. Be sure and follow the sealant and the roof material instruction on removal.

4x4van wrote:

rerod wrote:
Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old :h...

Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.

And, you can believe everything you read on the internet. Including on this forum.

rerod wrote:
Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old :h...

Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.

I don't know if it comes off with solvent but the pro's use Proflex RV. I just used Dicor on mine.