I use Molybdenum Disufide, which is NOT for anything with a friction clutch...too slippery and will ruin it in a hurry.
It bonds at a molecular level to metal, so does NOT drain off and I also use synthetics, which has a higher film strength. So it does NOT drain off as quickly as most dino oils
This quote from their web site says it all to me: "...AR9100 is also safe for wet clutches and limited slip differentials..." and why I'd not and stick to molybdenum disulfide additive that is in powdered form (less than 2 micron particle size) and mix it with 1 qt of synthetic engine oil. Oyster blender cost $5 bucks at Goodwill and dedicated for that
