BenK wrote:
I use Molybdenum Disufide, which is NOT for anything with a friction clutch...too slippery and will ruin it in a hurry.
It bonds at a molecular level to metal, so does NOT drain off and I also use synthetics, which has a higher film strength. So it does NOT drain off as quickly as most dino oils
This quote from their web site says it all to me: "...AR9100 is also safe for wet clutches and limited slip differentials..." and why I'd not and stick to molybdenum disulfide additive that is in powdered form (less than 2 micron particle size) and mix it with 1 qt of synthetic engine oil. Oyster blender cost $5 bucks at Goodwill and dedicated for that
Ever since Shell introduced 5-40 Rotella Synthetic, I've been using it all the time. The 'additive' in the Archoil is 'Nanoborate' whatever that is.
PSD's have an ongoing issue with shuttle (spool) valves sticking in the injectors and causing erratic injection. Like I said, just added a bottle with a fresh oil change and filter and according to Archoil it takes about a hundred miles of driving to have any effect, so it's a 'wait and see with me'.
Was curious if anyone else uses it or something similar (there are other 'additives' on the market from what I understand.
