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towpro's avatar
towpro
Explorer
Oct 13, 2016

Arctic Fox inverter instead of generator?

my 990 came "generator ready". It even has the AC junction box in the generator compartment, DC cables are already run from battery and switch panel inside camper even has the hour meter and on off switch installed. I believe the transfer switch is also installed inside.
dealer said he always orders them "generator ready".

Has anybody installed an DC-AC Inverter in this location instead of a generator? sounds like everything I need is already there.

All I want to be able to do is run the satellite system and TV.

(TV is 120V only. I figured since the Satellite system is also 120V only, might as well not worry about buying an over priced 12v TV).

I understand that if I go with this idea I need to remove some of the load like built in DC charger, refreg, AC, hot water since I am not running a big inverter.
  • I currently have 180AH of AGM batteries, but no solar until next spring (it stayed with Wolf Creek).

    and I already have a small 400w or so inverter, it does the job well, but I was just looking for a better way to do it.

    last camper I had a 2P2T switch that switched the LINE side of the GFI protected outlets (feed) between shore and inverter power so all the outlets (accept microwave) would run on inverter. This allows you to plug in a laptop to charge at any outlet.

    I was just trying to not be as intrusive, since the cutover switch is already there, and there is cables big enough to run my inverter already in generator box (the 12V cables to start generator) I thought I might go that route.
  • 300 watt inverter should serve you well. Consider an extra battery in the space and 100+ watts solar on the roof. I use a GoPower 300w sine wave inverter. Very low idle draw and a provision for a remote power switch.
  • I've done this, in both my previous two AF's and my current EC. Both of my previous AF's, an 1140, then an 1150, had built in gennies and I added an inverter. My Eagle Cap has no built-in genny, and I don't miss it in the least.

    First one, 1140 - it was an older one, I went the inexpensive route and got a 2KW modified sinewave from Harbor Freight. For the price, they're decent inverters, you can get them on sale with coopin for $129. I added a remote on/off switch. I found I seldom ever used the genny after that. I also went the super-easy way on hookup - just plugged tha camper pigtail right into the 15a outlet on the inverter. You must run off the battery charger, elx hot water, and hard-switch the fridge from auto to propane.
    Drawback - modified sinewave made the microwave work at about 60% power, it took longer to cook things. Also, electric blanket controllers will not work with MSW inverters.

    Next one, 1150 - same, came with genny. This time, went with a Prosine 2.0 with built in 3-stage 100a charger. Added a transfer switch, relocated control panel inside for full-remote operation. Worked great. I bought that TC brand new, sold it a year later, had 4 hours on the genny, and that was just to run the roof air. Added 2 more batteries for a total of 4. Ran the microwave perfectly, and on those cold nights, running the elx blanket saved power(and propane) vs. running the furnace warmer - I set the furnace lower, hence, the batteries lasted slightly longer.

    Now-- Eagle cap 1160-- No genny. I now have the mother of all inverters - Magnum Hybrid 3000. It can run the roof air. But I also have enough batteries to run a small city. I keep a Honda 2000 handy if i need it. Usually when I dry camp, I have the Shotwagon with me that has 600w solar on it tied to the TC batteries.

    This inverter is called a hybrid because it will assist any genny when the load approaches overloading the genny. You can literally run the roof air off a Honda 1000. I've done it. It assists the start surge and running load if necessary. This thing is awesome. 125a 3 stage charger. I find that the 600w of solar can keep up with the roof air draw up to about 90 degrees outside, past that, the compressor runs more than the solar can make up for.
  • There really no reason to add an all TC inverter for just a tv and satellite.

    It complicates matters since you have to either have huge batteries or switch the tv to propane only and either way you want to turn off or unplug your charger to prevent a feedback loop to suck your batteries to empty.

    A far easier solution is to use a small inverter for the tv/satellite/dvd and plug it into an existing 12v power socket.
  • I had the same situation but chose not to install the inverter there. The DC cables are usually not very large from battery to genset compartment as the expected currents are <30 A typically. 30A will only operate a 300 watt inverter, and probably with significant voltage loss. The first step in evaluating this is to sum up the AC load you expect, pick an inverter, size the cables according to the inverter install manual, then compare to what you have already in place.

    A smallish inverter is 600 watts, and will require #2 cable if they are very short - a couple of feet.