Arctic Fox Roof

Good to know. I will probably call them just to confirm when shopping for my solar panel mounts. Waiting on my batteries and inverter to show up so I can get the alternator charging working first.

I spoke with Northwood a few months ago about this very thing and they said to put them anywhere but use self leveling sealant underneath every contact point and on top of those points.

True, I don't think my OCD would allow me to put anything up there without screws.

SoonDockin wrote:
I have considered using 3M VHB tape with those plastic no drill mounts and eternabond on top of the edges to hold it down.

That's a very bad idea. Doing that method you are only attaching the mounts to the roof membrane and not the roof structure.

Mounts need to be screwed to the roof.

Solar on my AF 811

Well even more interesting ideas. I will call Northwood just to get their opinion. I have considered using 3M VHB tape with those plastic no drill mounts and eternabond on top of the edges to hold it down.

I like the idea of a elevated rack for a bunch of solar panels. I am focused on getting the rest of the system up and using my dual extra heavy duty alternators to start with. Solar will be the last thing I do.

I’ve had two AF 1140DBs with 400 watts of panels on each. Use double sided sticky tape to set your brackets at their locations with two pan head 1x10 SS screws in each bracket. Installation is fine anywhere on the roof, just keep in mind a walking/access path during install.
Put self leveling Dicor around all brackets and screws and you’ll be fine. All my panels and components were purchased thru AM Solar (this is how they install them)…..I’ve never had a problem or a leak anywhere due to my installs.
Good luck! Rick

n0arp, I mistakenly assumed they would use similar construction. I would not use my mounting methods on a roof you described.

Except for putting down the Eternabond wherever you are going to breach the roof.

Contact Arctic Fox for their recommendations.

If it’s the 1140 in your signature, you will need to use molly bolts, well nuts, or other expanding anchors.

The roof is solid... foam, sandwiched between two thin layers of lauan. Foam doesn't tend to hold screws very well, and the luan is too thin. The expanding anchors and lots of sealant works well.

It's also lacking in the truss department, and completely different construction than their trailer roofs.

If you go up and over the AC unit, you can fit a lot more up there. We have been running with 1800W for nearly 15K miles now, and nothing has budged, loosened, or leaked. As an added benefit, the rack pushes branches and other high debris up and over, rather than wreaking havoc on your roof protrusions. It adds less than an inch to total height, with the AC unit nestled up between the rails, and you can use residential or commercial panels that are both cheaper per watt and if you buy the right panel, have better tolerance to shading.



You should have the cathedral roof on the 2018, but from everything I've seen and read the only thing that changed regarding construction is the shape of the foam block they vacuum the lauan to. This is a cutaway of the roof according to Arctic Fox during an interview with Truck Camper Magazine regarding the change in 2017.

Good to hear you folks have had success. I was up on the roof the other day thinking I can get about 800 watts or possibly more up on that big roof.

Thanks!