Are You Buying All These Half-ton Claims?

And if you have a tie rod end or ball joint fail you lose steering. If you have a front drive shaft u-joint fail maybe it bounces up though the tunnel and takes out your feet. I have seen far more vehicles on the side of the road with the drive shaft hanging or front wheels pointed in different directions. If the c-clip is a deal breaker look at 350/3500 and larger trucks and be done with it. You will sleep better but if are under the mfgs ratings statistically no safer.

monkey44 wrote:
Well, there is barely safe, barely under the maximum specs of a 1500/150 ... then there is very safe, right into the middle of the maximum specs of a 2500 / 250.

SO, when you're carting around your family, which truck would you rather drive with three of your kids in the back seat?

And, I'd say brakes is one of the major factors -- not weight capacity.

Better not fly. I can guarantee the Southwest, TWA, ect does not say; "Lets be safer today; lets not load up that 747 to 100% of it's payload; lets only load it to 75% of Bowing's spec's. :S

Better not drive either. I can guarantee that 18 wheeler driver did not say; "I want to load it to only 50K lbs today instead of 80K because I want to be real safe today.

Better not take the train for the same reason. In fact, it's best to just stay home.............or buy a class 8 to tow your pop up........just to be super safe! :R

Trailer brakes are as good as what you pay for them. They come drum on one axle. Drum on two axle. Then there is the same for disc. Both one and two axles. A few years ago I read about the disc trailer brakes in a article on Trailer life I believe. There is a world of difference in stopping power. Just make sure you have the proper trailer brake controller.

I'm just saying. Just because it comes OEM, that doesn't mean it is what would be ideal.

This question Is why I brought up the topic on axles. If there is a weak link in the 1/2 ton claims I believe it is in the semi floating rear axles. Especially on the 4X4's. The semi floating axle carry both the weight of the truck plus the twisting motion that drives the truck. The compounding of the transfer case can twist just about any size axle when someone encounters a unexpected problem. I would be somewhat satisfied with a tapered bearing semi floating axel. There is some ability to retain the axle. But the c-clip is another story. And even though you may never have seen it happen before. Wheels have separated and it is a serious problem.

If the axel fails on a C-clip axel while pulling a 10,000lbs trailer, there is significant danger to you, your family and anyone else on the road with you.

I have seen this happen and on my topic about axles a gentlemen has posted a photo of it happening. It is a dangerous thing.

I haven't kept up with the story on axels in some time. The only real personal knowledge of a semi floater is with the Ford 9 inch, a tapered bearing semi floater. I was told on my post that the Ford semi floaters now were the 8.8", 9.5, and 10.25. Checking up on those I have found that the 8.8", 9.25 are c-clip designed axels. There is conflicting info on the 10.25. What I have found is that there are both semi floating 10.25 and full floating 10.25 axles. And that there are c-clips sold for the 10.25. I have also seen info that the 10.25 and 10.5 are similar and some parts are interchangeable. that leads me to believe there is a 10.25 c-clip semi floater. And a 10.25 and 10.5 made for heavier applications. I think but don't know for sure that these axles are used on the current Fords.

All I know about GM is dated info. That is that all GM semi floaters were c-clips. I don't even know which axles are used on the current trucks.

About all I know about the Dodges is that they used to use Dana axles but I think they now use American axle as their source. (Maybe GM also). And that on the 8 lug the wheels will interchange with Fords.

I will be 65 next year and am considering a new truck with in that year. I do have time to look around. I agree with one poster in that there is no reason for overkill. But I firmly believe the c-clip would be a deal killer for me.

If someone could give me further info on these axles I would greatly appreciate it. There isn't a big enough price difference between the size class, of a truck equipped with the same engine, to choose a truck that may provide marginal safety with regard so axle strength..

monkey44 wrote:
Well, there is barely safe, barely under the maximum specs of a 1500/150 ... then there is very safe, right into the middle of the maximum specs of a 2500 / 250.

SO, when you're carting around your family, which truck would you rather drive with three of your kids in the back seat?

And, I'd say brakes is one of the major factors -- not weight capacity.

Could you explain how operating under the mfgs specs is barely safe? Or is this just hyperbole? Is that like driving the speed limit is mostly negligent? If you really cared about your family and others on the road you would drive at least 10 under the speed limit.

monkey44 wrote:
Well, there is barely safe, barely under the maximum specs of a 1500/150 ... then there is very safe, right into the middle of the maximum specs of a 2500 / 250.

SO, when you're carting around your family, which truck would you rather drive with three of your kids in the back seat?

And, I'd say brakes is one of the major factors -- not weight capacity.

LAST TIME I CHECKED A FIFTH WHEEL OR TRAVEL TRAILER HAS BRAKES!!!! Any properly sized towable should be able to be stopped in an emergency situation by a proper tow vehicle - this includes a brake failure. Do you think for one minute all the trailers out there being towed (from an Ultra Light to a heavy fifth wheel)all have brakes PROPERLY ADJUSTED? Probably not but they are still being towed and stopped.

Your brake argument has been used before and is as false now as it has been previously.

Lantley wrote:

mich800 wrote:

Lantley wrote:
I buy all the half ton claims as long as you include all the parameters and the fine print.
Problems arise when we focus on only some of the parameters, ignore a few parameters and disregard the fine print and other disclaimers.

Marketing departments loudly boast of the tow rating, in some cases promote payload and smother all other parameters and disclaimers leading to lots of confusion and improperly matched combos

That is the case with ALL trucks. From the compact mini truck all the way to the one ton and beyond. The bigger trucks are no more immune to fine print than any other.

I agree there is a line and a debate between SRW trucks and DRW trucks.
There is also a debate between duallies and MDT's.

Nevertheless this thread referred to 1/2 ton trucks.
My comments apply to all size light duty trucks.
Stay within all of your parameters and you can trust/believe the ratings. When you fudge and ignore some of the ratings, disregard the fine print and disclaimers you set yourself up for a towing experience that is less than optimal.

I agree. I just do not know why some post about half tons and imply the specs are inaccurate but if you put some arbitrary and outdated title on it like one ton you can just toss the manual because it is all good. I find it hypocritical some will maintain you must stay within the manufactures specs but not if it is a half ton because the manufacturers specs are wrong.

mich800 wrote:

Lantley wrote:
I buy all the half ton claims as long as you include all the parameters and the fine print.
Problems arise when we focus on only some of the parameters, ignore a few parameters and disregard the fine print and other disclaimers.

Marketing departments loudly boast of the tow rating, in some cases promote payload and smother all other parameters and disclaimers leading to lots of confusion and improperly matched combos

That is the case with ALL trucks. From the compact mini truck all the way to the one ton and beyond. The bigger trucks are no more immune to fine print than any other.

I agree there is a line and a debate between SRW trucks and DRW trucks.
There is also a debate between duallies and MDT's.

Nevertheless this thread referred to 1/2 ton trucks.
My comments apply to all size light duty trucks.
Stay within all of your parameters and you can trust/believe the ratings. When you fudge and ignore some of the ratings, disregard the fine print and disclaimers you set yourself up for a towing experience that is less than optimal.

Lantley wrote:
I buy all the half ton claims as long as you include all the parameters and the fine print.
Problems arise when we focus on only some of the parameters, ignore a few parameters and disregard the fine print and other disclaimers.

Marketing departments loudly boast of the tow rating, in some cases promote payload and smother all other parameters and disclaimers leading to lots of confusion and improperly matched combos

That is the case with ALL trucks. From the compact mini truck all the way to the one ton and beyond. The bigger trucks are no more immune to fine print than any other.

Half ton trucks today are so much better than what was built 20-30 years ago. But, at the same time, cars with rigid unibody structures are also drastically better than what was built years ago. The difference is that the tow rating of cars has gone down to practically nothing. From a safety and capability standpoint, a Hemi Chrysler 300, Hemi Charger, or Chevy SS are much more capable and safe to tow 5000 lb than the wallowing boats made in the 70's.