Artci Fox 811 Nose Rebuild

Since you're trying to stay away from plywood, have you though about using the white PVC trim boards that Lowes or Home depot sells. They cut and plane down with standard wood working tools

You can slice them up just like wood and shim out the aluminum. It would act as a bit of a heat barrier between the aluminum frame (probably not a great insulator) but it doesn't rot.

Another item I've found that works well for "shims" is the slats from the 2" fake wood window blinds. They are made from PVC and are about 1/8" thick. PVC glue is quite cheap, you glue 2 together if you need 1/4".

Sorry for being so slow on my updates. I have had 12 big trees removed from my yard, been working on and attended my 50th High School Reunion, and its either been 90 deg or raining in Georgia for a while. For me, the deciding on, what I am doing and the way I will do it, takes longer than the doing.

I am slowly putting some things back together. It is evident, the luan plywood is bad, it gets wet and turns loose the Filon. I can not eliminate the wood from the side, unless I was to remove the side. I can eliminate the wood from the front though. I have removed the lower front panel, and the inside piece of cardboard-wallpaper from the inside. I sanded the alum frame and added an extra rib to the frame. It seemed weak with no support in the middle. I chose plastic 2" X 3/4" trim from the big box store. Lighter than the Aluminum and I could mount it with zinc plated L brackets and stainless screws. I don't have a Tig welder. I used new insulation and on the inside I used aluminum flashing installed with aluminum pop rivets. The inside is not visible because it is hidden by the mattress.




I have installed the panel, rewired my lights for just the 2 outside lights and am ready for the next step. I plan on an alum sheet before the outside layer of Filon. I need to make up the thickness between the camper frame and Filon. (because of the luan is thicker than the sheet aluminum I will be using. My thoughts are to maybe use flashing tape across the frame/Styrofoam.
My immediate work will be cutting a patch panel of luan and building a clamp method to repair the side of the front which was damaged. I have decided to use the Loctite Premium construction adhesive. I have chosen this because it is recommended for everything. It would be to complicated to use contact cement because I am not removing the whole panel, just pulling it back and inserting a luan patch.

Reelescape1 wrote:
Below is their recommended installation method;

My installation technique on the marker lights is to use butyl rubber tape behind the lights – I cut a strip of it in half lengthwise and use half for each light . I also put a wad of it in the light’s screw hole. I used stainless steel square drive screws when I installed the lights on both my Desert Fox and my Arctic Fox 811 truck camper.

Those lights were the first mod I did to both the DF and the AF811.

Jeeper92,

Any more progress??

trail-explorer wrote:

arto_wa wrote:
I don't think the clearance light water leaks have anything to do weather they are LED or not.

This style LED is totally sealed

Except for the screw holes. Thos are the lights I ordered and are supposed to be in tomorrow. Below is their recommended installation method;

My installation technique on the marker lights is to use butyl rubber tape behind the lights – I cut a strip of it in half lengthwise and use half for each light . I also put a wad of it in the light’s screw hole. I used stainless steel square drive screws when I installed the lights on both my Desert Fox and my Arctic Fox 811 truck camper. After a week or two, then cleaned up the butyl tape that oozed out, the ran a bead of GeoCel Proflex around the light, but I think there’s better sealants out there. The Proflex gets rock hard after a few years and bugs stick to it, and it starts to turn gray from mold/mildew growing on it where the bugs stuck to it.

People have mentioned Sikaflex. I don’t have any experience with it, so I don’t know what it does long term.

I'm pretty sure I would just run it into a low hanging tree limb and wait for the insurance check...that's just me though..

You did a nice job. I like your clamping method. Did you happen to look at how Lentz clamped my nose? I think you are going to be happy with what you did and you know what it is underneath...NICE!!!

See below for clamping...Interesting method spring board

Rebuild moving along.

OR

1161 Rebuild.

arto_wa wrote:
I don't think the clearance light water leaks have anything to do weather they are LED or not.

Answer...Yes and no. Vague, huh?? LOL

The fact that the lamp has LEDs in it does not directly correlate to non leaker... but, all the LED fixtures I've seen are sealed at the back (where the wires exit the lamp) so water that fills the lens on a removable lens style light can't get in the wall.... so long as the screw holes were properly sealed up at installation, but we already know how shoddy the workmanship is with factory light installation.

I've yet to see an incandescent lamp the is sealed in a manner that eliminates the chance of water inside the lens leaking through the hole where the wires exit the light and enter the camper.

This style LED is totally sealed

As are the style that AF currently uses at the factory.

Reelescape1 wrote:
Am I the only one that just ordered all new LED outside lights :)

I have replaced all inside lights with LED's but the outside ones are just fine as is.

I don't think the clearance light water leaks have anything to do weather they are LED or not.

Reelescape1 wrote:
Am I the only one that just ordered all new LED outside lights :)

I haven't yet, If they work then why change them. I did do all LED inside mostly because of heat off the old bulbs.