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- 3_tonsExplorer IIIBeware of basement temps, even if mfg. claims basement is heated a 2" basement duct is strictly for marketing only ("Heated Basement" - LOL!!)...A 2" duct into the basement will provide almost zero heat to the tanks whatsoever...Get a remote thermometer set from camping world and monitor basement temps against interior temps - this was a real eye opener for me...With a 2' basement duct, I monitored 24dF in the basement while 71dF inside the camper, after which I added a real 4" duct from the furnace plenum...Abandoning the worthless high resistance 2" basement duct and installing a real 4" duct should keep basement temps within 10 to 15 degrees of interior space...
- bobndotExplorer IIII had some additional info regarding " AF winter use " if it helps or applies to your needs. Electric heat is good if the furnace dies. As long as you have a genny, you'll have heat.
I carry a propane back-up Mr Heater as well as a genny and electric heater.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27734798.cfm
http://www.4scf.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3415 - Reality_CheckNomad II
brholt wrote:
You will be fine for your proposed use with the camper as it is. However, if you want to make some modifications you can get some inspiration from this post which is for an AF 1150 though much of the advice would apply to a 990
Full time winter camping modifications
brholt makes a good point. The mod's some have made are fantastic, innovative, useable. But like all things, you need to look at your actual use and requirements. You don't need to build and prepare for a journey to arctic if you'll never camp more than a couple days and you're on road somewhere...which is where you'll probably be if you're dragging a trailer with sleds.
Even when we head to the 'mountains', up logging roads, in the winter, you're only going as far as it's maintained...and where there is other traffic. I imagine your snoparks are similar to other areas...there is other traffic around, even on the quietest of days.
Tongue-n-cheek..... how do you ride without mountains???? Come west my friend. A view to behold... - brholtExplorer IIYou will be fine for your proposed use with the camper as it is. However, if you want to make some modifications you can get some inspiration from this post which is for an AF 1150 though much of the advice would apply to a 990
Full time winter camping modifications - bobndotExplorer IIII started out in an Af 860 which used a lot more propane than my Lance.
I dry camped because the -20 temps were too cold to have water in the tc.
I made two layer solid foam covers for the windows. I used shrink wrap for the window.
The entrance door was covered with a HD drape on a rod, that helped a lot .
keeping the slide closed at night also helped keep it warmer.
One thing about my AF slide was that it leaked a lot of cold air from under the slide where it touched the floor. I had to stuff a blanket at the bottom of the slide to stop the cold from entering.
Snow accumulated on top of the slide, it has to be cleared in order to close it . Ice formed on it so it was a chore.
I also used larger gas tanks because I would ride for 20-30 days at a time. - Yeti_plusExplorerBuzzcut1 did an excellent write up on how he keeps the heat in his camper. I think it is an AF 1050. If you search back about 1 or 2 months, you should find it.
Lots of added insulation, blocking holes from air flow, and some other excellent ideas. He is out in the mountains of N. California a lot, and has posted many of his trips here as well.
Have fun playing in the snow.
Brian - wcjeepExplorerIt may be easier to heat with the slide closed.
Edit:
Some time ago someone on this board did some temperature testing for the basement vs cabin temp. He found the basement averaged 10deg cooler. Good to know to prevent frozen lines. - Reality_CheckNomad II
cubbear wrote:
just wondering what to do to camper to keep some of cold air out
I try and keep the door closed, but beyond that, nothing. As opposed to someone trying to stay in their camper for weeks in the cold, most of us that snowmobile only go for a few nights at a time. So burning a little extra propane or gas for a gen is not an issue.
Condensation is an issue. Keeping a window/vent ever so slightly cracked helps. If we get to much on the windows, we'll just use a towel to wipe them, then hang it in the bathroom with the door shut, vent open.
Taking a camper off in the snow is problematic. We unload most of the time during the year, but not sledding. I can only imagine waking up to a couple feet of fresh. Then dealing with lining up again, after digging down, etc. Plus, as said earlier, wind blowing under is a factor.
Winter camping is the best bar none; we camp all year, as much as we can, and still can't wait to head out during the winter months. - TucsonJimExplorer IIOne thing we like to do when it's very cold out is to run the generator for about 30 minutes and set an electric blanket to high before going to bed.
- mlts22Explorer IIWill the camper be on the truck, or are you dropping it?
First recommendation -- ask others doing the same thing in your area. They will know tips and tricks that may not be evident.
Second recommendation -- if dropping the truck camper, skirt it. The wind whistling under it removes a lot of heat, and by skirting it, it helps create a dead air space underneath.
Third recommendation -- buy a Froli "Travel" system. This will give room under the mattress for air to circulate (so you don't have that area get wet and moldy.) Another idea is to buy Dri-Dek floor tiles and cut it to size. Either way, getting air under your mattress is important.
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