Forum Discussion
wintersun
Jun 19, 2013Explorer II
I attached our 10'8" Porta-bote as previously mentioned by using 2x2 inch 1/8" stainless steel angle and making two sections an inch longer than the jack mounting brackets. I removed the two side jacks and used the brackets as templates for drilling the holes. I was able to use the original mounting bolts again. Next made longer sections of angle steel to bolt to these short sections and fastened them using stainless steel security bolts and nylon insert nuts.
I made a 5/16" stainless steel wire rope bridle for the boat and ran it through the two holes at the bow and crimped on a copper sleeve. I lock the boat to the camper using both the bridle and the rear lock on the rear mounted bracket. The rear bracket alone provides very little security as a thief would only need to slide the boat forward a foot, pull out the rear of the boat and slide the boat back again to walk away with it.
There are some drawbacks to using the Porta-bote with a camper. Everything needs to come out or off the boat (motor, rod holders, oars, anchor, fishing rods, wheels, and other gear both at the start of the day's use and after a day's use. The assembly and collapsing of the boat is minor compared to the loading and unloading. This is doubly a problem with the limited space inside a truck cab and tiny amount of storage space with a slide-in camper.
We have also decided to stop dealing with the 6HP outboard and gas can and instead take the much lighter trolling motor and a small battery. The 6HP provides plenty of power but needs to be carried along inside the cab of the truck. Going to a 8-10 HP means going from 57-60 lbs. to a 90lb. motor and a 15HP takes it up another 20-30 lbs. in weight.
The Porta-boat is not a great vessel when there are water skiers around throwing up large wakes. We avoid lakes that allow water skiers and personal watercraft. Fortunately there are lakes in the Western US where they have either a 5 MPH speed limit or require the use of an electric motor.
I made a 5/16" stainless steel wire rope bridle for the boat and ran it through the two holes at the bow and crimped on a copper sleeve. I lock the boat to the camper using both the bridle and the rear lock on the rear mounted bracket. The rear bracket alone provides very little security as a thief would only need to slide the boat forward a foot, pull out the rear of the boat and slide the boat back again to walk away with it.
There are some drawbacks to using the Porta-bote with a camper. Everything needs to come out or off the boat (motor, rod holders, oars, anchor, fishing rods, wheels, and other gear both at the start of the day's use and after a day's use. The assembly and collapsing of the boat is minor compared to the loading and unloading. This is doubly a problem with the limited space inside a truck cab and tiny amount of storage space with a slide-in camper.
We have also decided to stop dealing with the 6HP outboard and gas can and instead take the much lighter trolling motor and a small battery. The 6HP provides plenty of power but needs to be carried along inside the cab of the truck. Going to a 8-10 HP means going from 57-60 lbs. to a 90lb. motor and a 15HP takes it up another 20-30 lbs. in weight.
The Porta-boat is not a great vessel when there are water skiers around throwing up large wakes. We avoid lakes that allow water skiers and personal watercraft. Fortunately there are lakes in the Western US where they have either a 5 MPH speed limit or require the use of an electric motor.
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