ATTENTION TRAVEL LITE OWNERS
This is long but worth it if you are considering buying a Travel Lite unit or own one already. I bought a 2015 Travel Lite Idea Sport (I-18) last fall. Wife and I spent a few nights in it in weath...
Forum Discussion
OK, I get the message here. From now on I will watch my paragraphs, spelling, size of the pictures, and anything else that comes to mind. I did get a few who tried to supply an answer to my problem; thanks for your input. By the way, the “pan” just has RTV at the corners and that was leaking because they didn’t get the corner filled.
Now for the answer I came up with. I was only one day from pulling out for a road trip and I needed an answer quickly. That’s why I made the phone call to the factory number. Working with the dealer is another problem; they are 300 miles away and don’t want to be bothered with something the manufacture has done. IE, they only sell the units, not build them.
See picture: I have some rubber roof repair I carry with me. It is white on one side and a real sticky rubber on the other side. Once the rubber hits something, it’s stuck there. I reinstalled the pan and put rubber strips, three each, in the pan with the end going over the outside wall. Now if any water goes there, it will just run down the outside of the trailer. When the A/C is installed, a piece of thin metal has to be used so that the bolt head on the bottom of the A/C won’t catch in the rubber. I’ll keep an eye on the seal around the window below the A/C.
Now that isn’t all that’s wrong. The A/C hole has to be larger than the A/C itself so the A/C will go in and out of the hole. This leaves a gap around the A/C unit; about half an inch total gap. Now if it rains hard, and the wind is blowing, water goes in the gap and into the inside of the trailer. See picture: That was easy to fix with some tape around three edges; not the bottom because it will drain out of the “pan.”
Also notice the drain I installed so the water, from the A/C will be carried away from the trailer. I added a screen over the end to keep bugs out.
Now you are asking why the post if you have the problem solved. I want everyone who might buy any trailer with a through the wall A/C unit installed to look carefully at how it is installed. You may be buying a time bomb as I stated before. I bought a 54 thousand dollar fiver in 2005 and it had a factory defect that wasn’t caught. After five years, the flooring above the curb side front wheel fell down and rubbed the wheel making it hot in the center. I had been driving for six hours in 101 degree heat and it didn’t take long for the tire to overheat and the tread fail. Now that really caused some damage and the cost was around 15 thousand to repair. Couldn’t prove the factory was at fault on that one because the rubber took out all the evidence. Had to replace 30 square feet of flooring.
Buyer beware is all that I can say when buying any RV units.
Now for the answer I came up with. I was only one day from pulling out for a road trip and I needed an answer quickly. That’s why I made the phone call to the factory number. Working with the dealer is another problem; they are 300 miles away and don’t want to be bothered with something the manufacture has done. IE, they only sell the units, not build them.
See picture: I have some rubber roof repair I carry with me. It is white on one side and a real sticky rubber on the other side. Once the rubber hits something, it’s stuck there. I reinstalled the pan and put rubber strips, three each, in the pan with the end going over the outside wall. Now if any water goes there, it will just run down the outside of the trailer. When the A/C is installed, a piece of thin metal has to be used so that the bolt head on the bottom of the A/C won’t catch in the rubber. I’ll keep an eye on the seal around the window below the A/C.
Now that isn’t all that’s wrong. The A/C hole has to be larger than the A/C itself so the A/C will go in and out of the hole. This leaves a gap around the A/C unit; about half an inch total gap. Now if it rains hard, and the wind is blowing, water goes in the gap and into the inside of the trailer. See picture: That was easy to fix with some tape around three edges; not the bottom because it will drain out of the “pan.”
Also notice the drain I installed so the water, from the A/C will be carried away from the trailer. I added a screen over the end to keep bugs out.
Now you are asking why the post if you have the problem solved. I want everyone who might buy any trailer with a through the wall A/C unit installed to look carefully at how it is installed. You may be buying a time bomb as I stated before. I bought a 54 thousand dollar fiver in 2005 and it had a factory defect that wasn’t caught. After five years, the flooring above the curb side front wheel fell down and rubbed the wheel making it hot in the center. I had been driving for six hours in 101 degree heat and it didn’t take long for the tire to overheat and the tread fail. Now that really caused some damage and the cost was around 15 thousand to repair. Couldn’t prove the factory was at fault on that one because the rubber took out all the evidence. Had to replace 30 square feet of flooring.
Buyer beware is all that I can say when buying any RV units.
