Forum Discussion
mosseater
Aug 23, 2022Explorer II
A lot of good info here. If the OP has done other types of bearings successfully this should not be a big deal. One item I will mention that I don't see mentioned ever is when disassembled and cleaned up, make sure to check the inner spindle bearing surface. The little hole drilled for the Easy Lube system sits right at the shoulder of the inner bearing seating surface. That little hole was extremely sharp from the factory and can cut a brand new seal lip when installing. I hit it with a small grinding stone and polished with Scotchbrite so the seal will slip over without damage. Also, I upgraded to new spindle nuts and spring keepers over the stock Castle nut and cotter pin arrangment. You want the bearing just on the looser side of zero preload. Don't tighten it down or you'll burn the bearing. Torque the nut to about 40 lb/ft while spinning the wheel, stop spinning and remove nut a few threads, then without moving the wheel, take it in finger tight to the first tightest place you can get the nut retainer on.
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