Bargman LED conversion
For your entertainment...Though stoked with our new LEDs, and just posting pics (ok showing off) of our conversion nothing new here or ground breaking. However relating the rewiring of grounds I found might be worth re posting- passing along. That and yet another source of possible water leak.
As I needed to remove our Bargman 84 series taillights to clean and reseal (again) I revisited replacing with LEDs. I do this periodically, looking at the LED conversion, but always balk at the cost- no real justification. However I stumbled upon a fella selling one for half price, looking around found another....so without taking the time to reflect on the practicality I ordered. As neither kit was suppose to be delivered until after we return from short trip, decided to go ahead-pull and clean up reseal the fixtures.
Though the LED conversion is simply plug in new light in place of bulb, screw down lens I have 2 issues to address. One is my housings are warping, top corners pulling away from camper wall. Second is a lot of corrosion and more than I realized once I removed lens.
Pictures dont show amount of corrosion on the left taillight which I took pics of while doing but Im suprised they still worked. Even worse though was the right taillight.
The lights ground path relies on the mechanical swagged socket connection to the backing/reflector plate. To the back side of plate the ground lead is riveted along with a small jumper bar that is riveted to the back up light. Any of these connection points, whether thru corrosion or becoming loose will cause lose of ground.
Between the corrosion and warped housings-started thinking maybe I should have just ordered new taillights. Got on line to see what housings, if available, might cost as I had Conversion kits in transit.
I came across several posts where folks simply by pass the mechanical ground path and solder ground leads directly to the sockets. Welp-thats worth a try...
After some serious cleaning of old putty tape and caulk from both the light and camper, took housing to the shop. Ive soldered on old lights before-usually without a lot of success. Surprisingly once I cleaned and filed a small spot, solder stuck to sockets like they were pre-tinned. Odd-but not complaining. I assumed to do this I would end up spot welding ground tabs on sockets though require removing wires and spring.
Soldered new ground wire leads to the sockets and passed thru the backing plate. New grounds are in conjunction with or alternate to, depending, with existing ground path.
Wire nutted leads back together. Because the lights don't have an actual mounting surface, its literally an edge with V shape hollow, I rolled putty tape to fill the v shaped groove so hopefully will give more adhesion area to the final ribbon of tape. Im surprised more folks don't see these leaking. On to the right taillight.
As mentioned on this fixture the internal corrosion was even worse. My opinion is housing is mounted upside down. The internal surface of box mounted horizontally, one side is sloped. I think it should be on bottom. Any water getting past the unsealed lens (constant) will just drain out. This one the slope surface was on top, obvious water has puddled on the flat bottom behind lens. Also with sloped edge at top any water leaking past perimeter seal was naturally directed into camper wall. Though just surface and no signs of rot obviously wall getting wet.
Drilled out all the rivets, pulled the backing plates with sockets and swapped so I can reinstall with the slope on bottom. Once connecting ground bar removed, release two 'clips' at one edge then slide plate down out of slot. Ive never noted a left/right fixture so not sure how this is supposed to work? Unfortunately we haven't had any real rain so camper was dry.
Cleaned up housing, added new ground leads, reinstalled on camper.
All clean, sealed and shiny with positive ground path. The added corners screws will get sealed once putty sets.
And then the new LED lights magically appeared... 2 days instead of scheduled 7-10 days? Setting on the bench, tracking still showed project delivery next week...The one was mailed 2 day priority from IN-the other std first class from NC, were in CA.
Wow put your eyes out kid.
Without much more thought, though puzzling, sat up to test & verify. Thats 0.1 amps on brake. Standard 1157 bulb showed 2.4 amps...
Niiice at least I like em. Not so sure I would want to be behind them. I installed only the left led 1st to compare led/incandescent. Night and day. Had the truck backed up off to side to plug into bumper. I could see both truck and camper tail lights. The difference, especially when turn signal on is amazing.
Appearance wise makes the led backup worth considering...almost
We have sealed beams for actually being able to see so these only act as eye level backup 'indicators'. I'll probably try to find some led bulbs or maybe let-in some led fixtures into lens. Removing the unnecessary 4-5 amp load, (more available for sealed beams), and allow keeping lens for the reflectors. TBD
As I needed to remove our Bargman 84 series taillights to clean and reseal (again) I revisited replacing with LEDs. I do this periodically, looking at the LED conversion, but always balk at the cost- no real justification. However I stumbled upon a fella selling one for half price, looking around found another....so without taking the time to reflect on the practicality I ordered. As neither kit was suppose to be delivered until after we return from short trip, decided to go ahead-pull and clean up reseal the fixtures.
Though the LED conversion is simply plug in new light in place of bulb, screw down lens I have 2 issues to address. One is my housings are warping, top corners pulling away from camper wall. Second is a lot of corrosion and more than I realized once I removed lens.
Pictures dont show amount of corrosion on the left taillight which I took pics of while doing but Im suprised they still worked. Even worse though was the right taillight.
The lights ground path relies on the mechanical swagged socket connection to the backing/reflector plate. To the back side of plate the ground lead is riveted along with a small jumper bar that is riveted to the back up light. Any of these connection points, whether thru corrosion or becoming loose will cause lose of ground.
Between the corrosion and warped housings-started thinking maybe I should have just ordered new taillights. Got on line to see what housings, if available, might cost as I had Conversion kits in transit.
I came across several posts where folks simply by pass the mechanical ground path and solder ground leads directly to the sockets. Welp-thats worth a try...
After some serious cleaning of old putty tape and caulk from both the light and camper, took housing to the shop. Ive soldered on old lights before-usually without a lot of success. Surprisingly once I cleaned and filed a small spot, solder stuck to sockets like they were pre-tinned. Odd-but not complaining. I assumed to do this I would end up spot welding ground tabs on sockets though require removing wires and spring.
Soldered new ground wire leads to the sockets and passed thru the backing plate. New grounds are in conjunction with or alternate to, depending, with existing ground path.
Wire nutted leads back together. Because the lights don't have an actual mounting surface, its literally an edge with V shape hollow, I rolled putty tape to fill the v shaped groove so hopefully will give more adhesion area to the final ribbon of tape. Im surprised more folks don't see these leaking. On to the right taillight.
As mentioned on this fixture the internal corrosion was even worse. My opinion is housing is mounted upside down. The internal surface of box mounted horizontally, one side is sloped. I think it should be on bottom. Any water getting past the unsealed lens (constant) will just drain out. This one the slope surface was on top, obvious water has puddled on the flat bottom behind lens. Also with sloped edge at top any water leaking past perimeter seal was naturally directed into camper wall. Though just surface and no signs of rot obviously wall getting wet.
Drilled out all the rivets, pulled the backing plates with sockets and swapped so I can reinstall with the slope on bottom. Once connecting ground bar removed, release two 'clips' at one edge then slide plate down out of slot. Ive never noted a left/right fixture so not sure how this is supposed to work? Unfortunately we haven't had any real rain so camper was dry.
Cleaned up housing, added new ground leads, reinstalled on camper.
All clean, sealed and shiny with positive ground path. The added corners screws will get sealed once putty sets.
And then the new LED lights magically appeared... 2 days instead of scheduled 7-10 days? Setting on the bench, tracking still showed project delivery next week...The one was mailed 2 day priority from IN-the other std first class from NC, were in CA.
Wow put your eyes out kid.
Without much more thought, though puzzling, sat up to test & verify. Thats 0.1 amps on brake. Standard 1157 bulb showed 2.4 amps...
Niiice at least I like em. Not so sure I would want to be behind them. I installed only the left led 1st to compare led/incandescent. Night and day. Had the truck backed up off to side to plug into bumper. I could see both truck and camper tail lights. The difference, especially when turn signal on is amazing.
Appearance wise makes the led backup worth considering...almost
We have sealed beams for actually being able to see so these only act as eye level backup 'indicators'. I'll probably try to find some led bulbs or maybe let-in some led fixtures into lens. Removing the unnecessary 4-5 amp load, (more available for sealed beams), and allow keeping lens for the reflectors. TBD
