Battery relocation project - BF10.4
At the risk of being accused of trolling (:)) I thought those of you with a BF 10.x might be interested. I bought my camper without batteries. The original compartment is nice and large with conven...
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Yeah, a small BBQ is one of the things I would like to carry. The port side upper compartment is going to become the guest bathroom - for the cat. I can cut a hole through from the inside, leave the door off the dinette under-seat compartment and he can go right through. Don't know how he will turn the light on though. But I will be able to "service" it from the outside.
If you look around under the drawers you may find room for a couple of G31. If you are putting the batteries inside, I would use AGM, not flooded batteries. I do not have a schematic, my requests to Bigfoot have gone unanswered. It isn't too difficult to reverse engineer, though some of it seems haphazard. I am going to leave the disconnect where it is, or maybe move it a little closer to the new battery location. I am also leaving the wires to the original battery compartment intact (though disconnected) for contingency or resales sake.
Mine has a 30A self-reseting breaker about 3 feet from the battery, then a push to reset breaker another 2 feet along (well hidden). Then the remote disconnect. On the other side of that is the Happijac control and DC panel in parallel. A fuse at the battery seems like a better idea. I'm not sure if the Magnatek/Parallax panel has a main DC fuse for the battery feed, have to look. I am going to clean this up a little but run to the same disconnect. I will have to run a bit further, but should be fine with #8 wire. I am mounting the inverter in place of the existing converter, the #2 wire runs will only be about 4 feet.
Are you thinking of a battery isolator between the truck alternator and TC battery? I believe a better choice would be an automatic paralleling relay such as the Blue Sea #7601 or equivalent. These automatically connect when charging voltage is present, and automatically disconnect when the voltage drops below around 13.5. They have no voltage drop like the cheap diode isolators. Better still is a secondary battery charge controller like the Balmar Duo Charge (especially if you use AGMs in the TC).
If you look around under the drawers you may find room for a couple of G31. If you are putting the batteries inside, I would use AGM, not flooded batteries. I do not have a schematic, my requests to Bigfoot have gone unanswered. It isn't too difficult to reverse engineer, though some of it seems haphazard. I am going to leave the disconnect where it is, or maybe move it a little closer to the new battery location. I am also leaving the wires to the original battery compartment intact (though disconnected) for contingency or resales sake.
Mine has a 30A self-reseting breaker about 3 feet from the battery, then a push to reset breaker another 2 feet along (well hidden). Then the remote disconnect. On the other side of that is the Happijac control and DC panel in parallel. A fuse at the battery seems like a better idea. I'm not sure if the Magnatek/Parallax panel has a main DC fuse for the battery feed, have to look. I am going to clean this up a little but run to the same disconnect. I will have to run a bit further, but should be fine with #8 wire. I am mounting the inverter in place of the existing converter, the #2 wire runs will only be about 4 feet.
Are you thinking of a battery isolator between the truck alternator and TC battery? I believe a better choice would be an automatic paralleling relay such as the Blue Sea #7601 or equivalent. These automatically connect when charging voltage is present, and automatically disconnect when the voltage drops below around 13.5. They have no voltage drop like the cheap diode isolators. Better still is a secondary battery charge controller like the Balmar Duo Charge (especially if you use AGMs in the TC).
