Best method to restore rusted metal?
I was wondering what is the best method to restore some of the rusted metal on our travel trailer. Should I use a wire brush and rattle can, or do something else?
Forum Discussion
moonlightrunner wrote:
For some of your stuff (like the jack pads) would a brush on truck bed liner be better (once you get rid of the surface rust of course)? I'm not sure a "one product fits all" would apply in your case.
I was actually thinking about Line-X for the pads. I could remove the pads, have them sandblasted or wire brushed,then sprayed.
The trailer is a 2008, so it's not an old unit with lots of rust. This is very minor surface rust that didn't appear until recently. I think it took a lot of salt this past winter when we drove through TX, OK, MO, and KS due to heavy ice and snow. The surface rust was barely visible last summer!- POR-15 needs to be painted as it is not UV resistant (says so right in their lit and website). If you use Rustoleum Stops Rust, bear in mind that a wire brushing is likely all you need. It works best with a light amount of surface rust. Since rust is simply metal oxidizing, you need to stop the air/water from reaching the surface of the metal. Paints can become porus. Use several coats and keep touching it up. POR works so well because it is a thick product. It is also very expensive and messy. I has gotten a small amount from them. I was not terribly impressed with it for the money spent. As with any paint "Prep is everything". For some of your stuff (like the jack pads) would a brush on truck bed liner be better (once you get rid of the surface rust of course)? I'm not sure a "one product fits all" would apply in your case.
- wire-brush the loose stuff off, rust converter then a top coat. I personally use POR-15, but others will work. I've actually found the POR-15 to be permanent.
Brian - X2 on the navel jelly...
- I used to paint a lot of steel, some of it similar to the rusted surface you have that were at one time painted.
What I found that worked best was to mechanically remove the rust with a wire wheel, then treat the remaining surface rust with a phosphoric acid based conditioner. Lately, I've been using water softener cleaner or dehumidifier cleaner because it's cheaper than the commercial products and nearly as effective. After the surface is rinsed and dried, I apply the best steel primer I have around. Today, that would be Sherwin-Williams DTM Industrial primer. Finish coat is usually an enamel, the epoxies or urethanes are the most durable.
Most of the rust in your pictures looks like light surface rust. I'd be tempted to try the conditioner, first, it may remove most of what you have. If not, you can go back with a wire brush or wheel and get the reamining heavy stuff.
Some of the specialty coatings like POR-15, are really good for frames and undercarriage. The durability can be outstanding.
