Best Way to Level TT at a Seasonal Campsite???

Depending on the layout, you will probably have to jack up a ways, set temporary blocks or jackstands, then put block/s under the jack and go up some more.

That's what I do.

I do one end partway up (jack centered between the two sides), then the other end, then take the first end higher, then the other end. Repeat as needed. Don't go too high at once.

Be careful! A guy offered to help me one time, tried to lift too high at one go (would not listen to me because woman). The jack kicked out and the rig fell down. Snapped one jackstand and bent another. The guy was ok but he could have not been.

Think about the geometry. The jack goes straight up but the rig lifts at an angle. There is a limit to that! Think about the angles when you set the jack, and don't be under the rig when doing the lifting. Use a long handle if you need to.

darleyhavidson wrote:
Since this trailer is so **** long, I was concerned about supporting the rear of the trailer with blocks and then jacking up the front with no support in between. I thought I might use the same procedure you highlight, but put the rear blocks closer to the rear axle. And repeat the same toward the front of the camper (split difference between front axle and tongue). Then I could add additional support at the 4 corners.

Thoughts?

I had the same concern, that is why I did it how I did, with the bottle jack. Our tongue jack is only rated for 2,000 lbs. I didn't feel comfortable raising the TT off the wheels leaving most of the weight on the tongue jack. Since I lifted at the axles, I knew they could handle it. I also wanted the wheels off the ground. Our TT is 40' long and has 4 slides, with 2 in the bunk house at the rear, one large one in the main living area and one in the master bedroom. I would estimate that about 60 - 65% of the TT is forward the axles.

If there was any abnormal flexing of the frame I did not notice it. I only lifted the TT enough to get the wheels off the ground an inch at most, so no extreme lifting or angles. I left all the slides out when I leveled, except the main living area slide, since that slide is over the axles and I wanted more room to work.

-Michael

RamRider wrote:
I have had a lot of experience moving non TT and this is actually easier than you think. lower front of trailer, place blocks under frame at rear of trailer raise and check side to side level - if level, raise front of TT slightly high and place blocks under the frame at front lower trailer, check side to side then place blocks behind of wheels and in front of wheels and use wedges to tighten up these Blocks - you are done. if you want the wheels more off of the ground make that adjustment when you place the rear blocks. This entire process only takes 10 or 15 minutes.

Our family used to travel following my dad on construction jobs during summer months back in the 50's and 60's - worst thing was using the manual jack to crank up the front. (I was 14 and 100 lbs) but the trailer was always level and did not shake when I was done,

Since this trailer is so **** long, I was concerned about supporting the rear of the trailer with blocks and then jacking up the front with no support in between. I thought I might use the same procedure you highlight, but put the rear blocks closer to the rear axle. And repeat the same toward the front of the camper (split difference between front axle and tongue). Then I could add additional support at the 4 corners.

Thoughts?

I have had a lot of experience moving non TT and this is actually easier than you think. lower front of trailer, place blocks under frame at rear of trailer raise and check side to side level - if level, raise front of TT slightly high and place blocks under the frame at front lower trailer, check side to side then place blocks behind of wheels and in front of wheels and use wedges to tighten up these Blocks - you are done. if you want the wheels more off of the ground make that adjustment when you place the rear blocks. This entire process only takes 10 or 15 minutes.

Our family used to travel following my dad on construction jobs during summer months back in the 50's and 60's - worst thing was using the manual jack to crank up the front. (I was 14 and 100 lbs) but the trailer was always level and did not shake when I was done,

Dick_B wrote:
I like RR ties cut into 2 ft. lengths.

I'm assuming you are using these in lieu of concrete blocks or jack stands for shoring up TT frame? How are you cutting the RR ties? I hate to destroy a chainsaw chain trying to cut through those things.

dh

I like RR ties cut into 2 ft. lengths.

mgirardo wrote:
We purchased our Jayco Bungalow back in May and put it on a seasonal site. It is also considered a Destination Trailer. It is 40' 2" long. After getting ours on site and all situated, I used a bottle jack between the axles to lift one side. I used 5 cinder blocks and made a "tower", one in front of the front axle and one behind the rear axle. I also placed a piece of 2x6 pressure treated on top of the top cinder block. Then on the other side I did the same thing. However, I used gradually thinner pieces of 6" pressure treated until the camper was level.

After letting things settle for a month, I went back and re-leveled with different thickness 6" lumber. We have stabilizer jacks at each corner. I used 2 cinder blocks under each so I only had to extend the stabilizers about 6 inches.

I know you mentioned in a previous post that you already have a deck on site. You can use the same technique to raise the camper to the level of the deck if that is desired. Just lift one side at a time.

When we get back to our seasonal camper, I will re-level. Hopefully it is done settling after 4 months living in it.

-Michael

Good stuff. Did you notice if the frame flexed when you used the bottle jack at the axle location. I am not sure how your Jayco is configured, but my Zinger has over 60 percent of it length toward the front. Worst case, I could just use another jack in conjunction with the tongue jack.

I know the conventional wisdom is to level side to side when first placing the camper on site, but if I am going to rest the frame on blocks anyway, I am not sure this is required. Since I will be leveling with blocks as I go am not sure the leveling side to side is required (unless your campsite is really uneven, which mine is not). I think I will rest the tires on 2x12 pressure treated lumber at the onset as I do not plan on removing the tires and the boards will keep the rubber out of the dirt.

We purchased our Jayco Bungalow back in May and put it on a seasonal site. It is also considered a Destination Trailer. It is 40' 2" long. After getting ours on site and all situated, I used a bottle jack between the axles to lift one side. I used 5 cinder blocks and made a "tower", one in front of the front axle and one behind the rear axle. I also placed a piece of 2x6 pressure treated on top of the top cinder block. Then on the other side I did the same thing. However, I used gradually thinner pieces of 6" pressure treated until the camper was level.

After letting things settle for a month, I went back and re-leveled with different thickness 6" lumber. We have stabilizer jacks at each corner. I used 2 cinder blocks under each so I only had to extend the stabilizers about 6 inches.

I know you mentioned in a previous post that you already have a deck on site. You can use the same technique to raise the camper to the level of the deck if that is desired. Just lift one side at a time.

When we get back to our seasonal camper, I will re-level. Hopefully it is done settling after 4 months living in it.

-Michael

Naio wrote:
For serious stability (and to save your tires), you need a little air space between the tires and the ground.

I learned that from people on this forum, a year ago, when I was in a high wind area :).

Getting the RV's suspension out of the picture makes a HUGE difference.

Can you elaborate (or supply a forum link) on the best way to lift/level travel trailer so the suspension is not part of the support and no weight is being put on the tires?

dh

Here is what I did twice in the past year since hurricane Irma's five foot flood surge totaled our new 40 trailer from last year and now I just recently did it again with the replacement one.
-Back in or pull in and level it side to side using lynx lock blocks or equal. Then level it front to back using the tongue jack.
Once it is all level I put down the stabilizers.
After that I used concrete blocks for piers, (3 on each side)
I tried to get the blocks close enough to the frame by either digging down and inch or so or using treated lumber on top(in some cases 2" x 6"'s. In others 3/4")and leaving a 1/4" on top.
Then I finished by using opposing shims on the top with the very top one pounded in with a rubber mallet.
As I did each one, I used a level inside the trailer to make sure it stayed level both front to back and side to side.
When I had them all done, I jacked each axel with a bottle jack under the "U" bolt on the side where the blocks were and removed the blocks once the tire was off them. I could have left them there, but wanted them out for looks.
Double check them in a few weeks in case they settle

In both cases the trailer is rock solid with absolutely no movement

Good luck,
Jack L