Reddog1 wrote:
Did you have to gut the TC to put the 1x2 in place? Do you have photos?
... I had the coil replaced in mine in 2005. I went with a local rebuild. It has worked without flow since then. I considered a new/newer fridge, but in talking to the guy, he suggested I stay with what I had. No $100 Dinosaur board to go bad, manual propane, 120v and 12v. Minimal things to go wrong and no parasitic load on the TC battery. I believe he was correct. The fridge is not automatic, and I know how to turn the knob on the controls.
Wayne
Sorry, no photos.
Was able to get decent access to all the rear bulge areas with out gutting. RH side was easy, did have to remove the cabinet trim. The LH side was a pain, lots of contortions but was able to get new boards in there. Found out later with the water heater out is much simpler. Was able to replace 90% of the bad side wood. A prior owner installed aluminum plates and inner reinforcements for the rear jacks.
Agree with you on the older manual fridges; simple is always better, especially off road. After last weekends dead battery fiasco due to a portable cooler, decided to go with a manual one.
ticki2 wrote:
Blue Coyote
That is quite the tow hitch , how is attached to the frame ?
Rear hitch extensions are tied to the flat bed main rails (2x3x.188), and tuck under the truck frame rails. Nothing is welded to the truck frame rails - all connections to the truck are bolted. Here is a photo during mock up. This was the best option, as this truck had a service body at one time and the rear rails had been shortened.