So as follow up to my previous two projects (holding tank supports and truck platform to raise camper) I'm now looking at the next big project. For years the front of my camper on the bottom portion (just below the cab pass through window) the fiberglass has de-laminated from the plywood. It hasn't really bothered me because it's invisible since it is between the cab of the truck. However... it is time to put this project on the to-do list and get it fixed.The issue I believe at the root of this is that the support wall is insufficient which causes the camper to sag and expand whenever it is jacked up or placed on the truck. I believe this to be the case because the bubble (covering ~20% of the front wall of the camper below the overhead bed) changes in shape depending on if the camper is resting on the jacks or sitting on the bed of the truck. Also of note, when the camper is on jacks, the door of the camper will not open or close. This tells me the entire shell is moving.I have a contact has a shop for fiberglass boat repair and he has offered to take a look to see what he might be able to do. The current idea barring any better ideas is to remove from bed of camper and support on platform so we know the shape it needs to be in the truck. Then we cut open the front fiberglass area to reveal what we have to work with. Unless they did something different than other areas of the camper, I suspect there is likely a 1/4" sheet of plywood across the front followed by 1" of foam. To add extra support for the camper, my current thinking is to remove the foam and replace with either marine grade 3/4" plywood or weld up an aluminum support truss to tie in. Ideally we will get this new bracing to tie in with the front jack supports so we can keep the sagging / movement of the camper to a minimum when it is lifted and lowered. Once we are happy with the new support, we will re-glass everything so it is all solid and as if nothing had ever happened.So my question is, has anyone performed this same repair or encountered these same issues? Are there any pics available to show how the front wall of the camper is constructed and how the front jacks tie into the support structure? Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

I am not sure what you are talking about as the fiberglass is done in a mold and not a wood bonded product. I got to watch them build the shell of one camper when I was at the factory, and it is all fiberglass. do you have a picture of what you're talking about?

StirCrazy wrote:I am not sure what you are talking about as the fiberglass is done in a mold and not a wood bonded product. I got to watch them build the shell of one camper when I was at the factory, and it is all fiberglass. do you have a picture of what you're talking about?Not being Snarky Stircrazy just adding to your point. I looked up fiberglass camper delamination repair and found only crack and fraying of worn fiberglass repair but nothing else. I did remember that Gordon did a factory tour and here is your point.https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/factory-tour/glass-secret-under-the-bigfoot-shell/

Adamis, you’re headed down that same deep expensive rabbit hole that you have with so many things involving your truck and camper. First blush what you’re proposing , whether it’s right or not is throwing a lot of good money after bad. Second, same as first.I can’t speak to the actual construction of the glass shell like others can, but I can say, if major repair of something that virtually no one does involves a boat repair shop, you’re looking at $1000s. Didn’t you just have the belly off last week? That’s your best access. Cutting the front shell off and going at it from the outside in sounds expensive and wrong. But you’re one of those fellers who will ask a question and then do what you want to regardless of the responses, so just dig in and let us all know how it goes. In my 10years on this forum, I’ve never heard of this issue or anyone doing structural repairs to a BF TC. So it’s unlikely you’ll have any first hand knowledge pop up. Yes you can twist a TC up while sitting on jacks. But I’m failing to se how a little flex in the front wall affects the door in back. You may have bigger issues, however you’re also determined that it’s never leaving the truck so if it works 99% of the time, why fork with it?Pull the jacks off of it like you plan to and solve your door problem for free. (Also a bad idea but in your way of thinking you’d kill 2 birds with one stone)

As far as lamination, I don't know what is behind this area of the camper, I assumed it was plywood but I've never walked the factory to see how they are actually assembled. I only can go off of what I observed while working on my holding tanks and there was plenty of plywood from what I saw so assumed it continued up the back wall. I don't believe it is the fiberglass providing all of the structural support in this area, it is too thin but I could be wrong.As far as the repair and why do it, well, I'm just not the type to let something I own not be in top notch shape. I have the means and motivation to do it and I wouldn't feel good about trying to sell the camper to someone else knowing these issues. Another factor is, the camper is used for my business so it's the business that pays for the repairs, not out of my pocket directly so money isn't as large of an issue. Even if I spend $3k to $4k to get the job done, I'm way farther ahead then spending $40k to $60k on a replacement camper. The math works out for me personally though I understand others might perform different calculations and come up with different resultsAs far as the door, it opens and closes fine when on the truck. It's only when lifted that it becomes a problem. I'm not looking at performing any repairs on the door itself. My suspicion is that if I get the front structurally braced and rigid, the door in the rear will take care of itself. I emailed Grant at Bigfoot asking for some pictures and suggestions. He said the repair is not uncommon and to anticipate between 30 and 40 hours to do the job. He provided a picture of the area in the mold and I have circled the area in question. I asked a follow up to him if he could tell me what provides structural support in this area. As far as using a boat guy versus a camper guy, well, if I knew of a camper guy that worked exclusively on fiberglass truck campers for a living, that would be my first pick but I don't think those people exist. A boat is structurally much more complex and demanding so assuming my friend will even take the job (he may still say know, we will find out on Thursday) I feel he has the right skills and knowledge to get it done right.

Adamis, what exactly did the guy from bigfoot say the repair was structurally. Is it wood under the fiber? is it that the Fiber has lost it's strength? Build quality? I'm curious as to what the repair is actually going to repair. As far as the door, On my coachman many years ago, My door sagged a little but only off the truck. It was actually the roofing up over the door that grew week and worn. It was wood though so totally different I think...

Bigfoot 2500 Front Fiberglass Delam Repair Questions

StirCrazy
Moderator
Jul 25, 2023
I am not sure what you are talking about as the fiberglass is done in a mold and not a wood bonded product. I got to watch them build the shell of one camper when I was at the factory, and it is all fiberglass. do you have a picture of what you're talking about?
notsobigjoe
Nomad III
Jul 25, 2023
StirCrazy wrote:
I am not sure what you are talking about as the fiberglass is done in a mold and not a wood bonded product. I got to watch them build the shell of one camper when I was at the factory, and it is all fiberglass. do you have a picture of what you're talking about?

Not being Snarky Stircrazy just adding to your point. I looked up fiberglass camper delamination repair and found only crack and fraying of worn fiberglass repair but nothing else. I did remember that Gordon did a factory tour and here is your point.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/factory-tour/glass-secret-under-the-bigfoot-shell/
Grit_dog
Navigator
Jul 25, 2023
Adamis, you’re headed down that same deep expensive rabbit hole that you have with so many things involving your truck and camper.
First blush what you’re proposing , whether it’s right or not is throwing a lot of good money after bad.
Second, same as first.

I can’t speak to the actual construction of the glass shell like others can, but I can say, if major repair of something that virtually no one does involves a boat repair shop, you’re looking at $1000s.
Didn’t you just have the belly off last week? That’s your best access. Cutting the front shell off and going at it from the outside in sounds expensive and wrong.
But you’re one of those fellers who will ask a question and then do what you want to regardless of the responses, so just dig in and let us all know how it goes.
In my 10years on this forum, I’ve never heard of this issue or anyone doing structural repairs to a BF TC. So it’s unlikely you’ll have any first hand knowledge pop up.
Yes you can twist a TC up while sitting on jacks. But I’m failing to se how a little flex in the front wall affects the door in back. You may have bigger issues, however you’re also determined that it’s never leaving the truck so if it works 99% of the time, why fork with it?
Pull the jacks off of it like you plan to and solve your door problem for free. (Also a bad idea but in your way of thinking you’d kill 2 birds with one stone)
adamis
Nomad II
Jul 25, 2023
As far as lamination, I don't know what is behind this area of the camper, I assumed it was plywood but I've never walked the factory to see how they are actually assembled. I only can go off of what I observed while working on my holding tanks and there was plenty of plywood from what I saw so assumed it continued up the back wall. I don't believe it is the fiberglass providing all of the structural support in this area, it is too thin but I could be wrong.

As far as the repair and why do it, well, I'm just not the type to let something I own not be in top notch shape. I have the means and motivation to do it and I wouldn't feel good about trying to sell the camper to someone else knowing these issues. Another factor is, the camper is used for my business so it's the business that pays for the repairs, not out of my pocket directly so money isn't as large of an issue. Even if I spend $3k to $4k to get the job done, I'm way farther ahead then spending $40k to $60k on a replacement camper. The math works out for me personally though I understand others might perform different calculations and come up with different results

As far as the door, it opens and closes fine when on the truck. It's only when lifted that it becomes a problem. I'm not looking at performing any repairs on the door itself. My suspicion is that if I get the front structurally braced and rigid, the door in the rear will take care of itself.

I emailed Grant at Bigfoot asking for some pictures and suggestions. He said the repair is not uncommon and to anticipate between 30 and 40 hours to do the job. He provided a picture of the area in the mold and I have circled the area in question. I asked a follow up to him if he could tell me what provides structural support in this area. As far as using a boat guy versus a camper guy, well, if I knew of a camper guy that worked exclusively on fiberglass truck campers for a living, that would be my first pick but I don't think those people exist. A boat is structurally much more complex and demanding so assuming my friend will even take the job (he may still say know, we will find out on Thursday) I feel he has the right skills and knowledge to get it done right.
notsobigjoe
Nomad III
Jul 25, 2023
Adamis, what exactly did the guy from bigfoot say the repair was structurally. Is it wood under the fiber? is it that the Fiber has lost it's strength? Build quality? I'm curious as to what the repair is actually going to repair. As far as the door, On my coachman many years ago, My door sagged a little but only off the truck. It was actually the roofing up over the door that grew week and worn. It was wood though so totally different I think...
StirCrazy
Moderator
Jul 26, 2023
notsobigjoe wrote:
StirCrazy wrote:
I am not sure what you are talking about as the fiberglass is done in a mold and not a wood bonded product. I got to watch them build the shell of one camper when I was at the factory, and it is all fiberglass. do you have a picture of what you're talking about?

Not being Snarky Stircrazy just adding to your point. I looked up fiberglass camper delamination repair and found only crack and fraying of worn fiberglass repair but nothing else. I did remember that Gordon did a factory tour and here is your point.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/factory-tour/glass-secret-under-the-bigfoot-shell/

not sure what you're getting at. Like I said it is not construction like Luan in a normal rv. the foam insulation is glued to the interior panes then they are just glued as one to the fiberglass shell. it's not a lamination process. maybe I'm not understanding what the issue is as when a normal fiberglass laminated trailer delaminates you see bubbles in the exterior. in the bigfoot this won't happen as it is a solid fiberglass and gel coat shell with the interior glued to it.
StirCrazy
Moderator
Jul 26, 2023
adamis wrote:
As far as lamination, I don't know what is behind this area of the camper, I assumed it was plywood but I've never walked the factory to see how they are actually assembled. I only can go off of what I observed while working on my holding tanks and there was plenty of plywood from what I saw so assumed it continued up the back wall. I don't believe it is the fiberglass providing all of the structural support in this area, it is too thin but I could be wrong.

As far as the repair and why do it, well, I'm just not the type to let something I own not be in top notch shape. I have the means and motivation to do it and I wouldn't feel good about trying to sell the camper to someone else knowing these issues. Another factor is, the camper is used for my business so it's the business that pays for the repairs, not out of my pocket directly so money isn't as large of an issue. Even if I spend $3k to $4k to get the job done, I'm way farther ahead then spending $40k to $60k on a replacement camper. The math works out for me personally though I understand others might perform different calculations and come up with different results

As far as the door, it opens and closes fine when on the truck. It's only when lifted that it becomes a problem. I'm not looking at performing any repairs on the door itself. My suspicion is that if I get the front structurally braced and rigid, the door in the rear will take care of itself.

I emailed Grant at Bigfoot asking for some pictures and suggestions. He said the repair is not uncommon and to anticipate between 30 and 40 hours to do the job. He provided a picture of the area in the mold and I have circled the area in question. I asked a follow up to him if he could tell me what provides structural support in this area. As far as using a boat guy versus a camper guy, well, if I knew of a camper guy that worked exclusively on fiberglass truck campers for a living, that would be my first pick but I don't think those people exist. A boat is structurally much more complex and demanding so assuming my friend will even take the job (he may still say know, we will find out on Thursday) I feel he has the right skills and knowledge to get it done right.

ok it is getting clear now. you're saying the actual fiberglass is coming apart if I am seeing it right.
adamis
Nomad II
Jul 26, 2023
No, the fiberglass itself is in good condition. It is just bulging out. Below is a photo that shows what is happening. The bulge is larger than it appears in the photo, the lighting was less than ideal to show it properly but essentially it continues to just below the pass through window.

I did get a response from Grant at Bigfoot and this is what he said.

This is the basement. The bottom horizontal under the main floor is glass in support walls.

The upper walls are glued in with 2 vertical plywood strips up each side of the 4 ft wide center section.

Seems like the bond above floor level gave way from the plywood.

Grant
notsobigjoe
Nomad III
Jul 26, 2023
StirCrazy wrote:
notsobigjoe wrote:
StirCrazy wrote:
I am not sure what you are talking about as the fiberglass is done in a mold and not a wood bonded product. I got to watch them build the shell of one camper when I was at the factory, and it is all fiberglass. do you have a picture of what you're talking about?

Not being Snarky Stircrazy just adding to your point. I looked up fiberglass camper delamination repair and found only crack and fraying of worn fiberglass repair but nothing else. I did remember that Gordon did a factory tour and here is your point.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/factory-tour/glass-secret-under-the-bigfoot-shell/

not sure what you're getting at. Like I said it is not construction like Luan in a normal rv. the foam insulation is glued to the interior panes then they are just glued as one to the fiberglass shell. it's not a lamination process. maybe I'm not understanding what the issue is as when a normal fiberglass laminated trailer delaminates you see bubbles in the exterior. in the bigfoot this won't happen as it is a solid fiberglass and gel coat shell with the interior glued to it.

I was agreeing with you that there is no such thing as "fiberglass" delamination on a camper mold. Before I post on any forum I look stuff up so I don't make a fool of myself. The only delamination there is on any camper is the Luan/pine getting wet under the fiberglass panel. like you said. Fiberglass molds do not delaminate because there is nothing to delaminate. I do not have any experience in camper fiberglass molds but I have extensive knowledge of fiberglass boats. The wood in any boat can rot for 30 years but the fiberglass will remain as it was poured all those years ago.

Here is a pic of a rebuild of my 88 Bayliner. The wood completely rotted but the fiberglass has not moved since 88. I would think the fiberglass campers would be exactly the same but according to TCM there is almost no wood in them. Sorry so long winded...
notsobigjoe
Nomad III
Jul 26, 2023
adamis wrote:
No, the fiberglass itself is in good condition. It is just bulging out. Below is a photo that shows what is happening. The bulge is larger than it appears in the photo, the lighting was less than ideal to show it properly but essentially it continues to just below the pass through window.

I did get a response from Grant at Bigfoot and this is what he said.

This is the basement. The bottom horizontal under the main floor is glass in support walls.

The upper walls are glued in with 2 vertical plywood strips up each side of the 4 ft wide center section.

Seems like the bond above floor level gave way from the plywood.

Grant

So there is wood in it. That explains everything.