Bolts Failing on Equalizer Hitch
I have an Equalizer Hitch with 1400 lb bars. Today I replaced the third pair of bolts and nuts that attach the head to the shank They are grade 8, 3/4" in diameter and 5" long. The threads failed on t...
Forum Discussion
wgriswold wrote:mike-s wrote:SoundGuy wrote:No, they don't. You set it up statically. No need to fully torque each time while adjusting, just enough that things aren't loose. And it can't move much - it's pretty much trapped with the stud/washers on the top and the bolt on the bottom. Once you get it setup, then you torque it so you can drive down the road safely. And, you can drive somewhere (with no trailer) to get it torqued properly if need be.
those darned shank bolts had to be loosened, removed, and retorqued each time
I read the instructions carefully yesterday because of this thread. The instructions agree with the first sentence of this quote. The last sentence is wrong. The instructions say to torque with the WD bars in place, so the trailer must be connected to the vehicle.
It may vary with different weight hitches, but my 6K-14K instructions state.
“Use your tongue jack to lift the trailer and tow vehicle, and disconnect the spring arms. Lower the tongue jack and uncouple the trailer from the tow vehicle. Pull the tow vehicle forward a few feet to give yourself working room to tighten the hitch bolts.
Remove the pins and clips from the spring arms, and remove the spring arms from the hitch head. Remove the hitch pin and clip. Slide the hitch head and shank from the receiver, turn the assembly upside-down, and place it back into the receiver tube. Replace the hitch pin to secure it temporarily.
Use the torque wrench to tighten both 3/4” shank bolts to 320 ft-lbs.”
