Forum Discussion

BurbMan's avatar
BurbMan
Explorer II
Jan 17, 2016

Calling All Spark Plug Experts, Opinions on these pics.

Seemed like not too long ago I changed the plugs in the burb. Got an 02 Grand Prix GTP as a daily driver so the truck sits during the week now.

Took it out the other day and it ran terrible, then the check engine light came on. A scan indicated misfire in #6, and also #5 to a lesser extent, so plugs and wires seemed the place to start. Truck has 170k on it now, my records show that plugs and wires were last changed in Jan of 2013 at 140k miles, so almost exactly 3 yrs and 30k miles on the plugs. Here are some pics and bear in mind that these plugs are OEM iridium and are supposed be good for 75k miles.

Truck here is a 2001, engine is the 8.1L big block.





A little disturbing to see pieces of insulator material flaked off of #1 plug. Hopefully they went out the exhaust valve without causing too much damage.



Also #4 plug is really clogged up with some kind of white stuff, not sure what that is....

NOTE that there was NO OIL on any of the plugs, the look dark in the pic due to the camera angle.





So these are the OEM spec 41-983 plugs gapped at factory spec .060. I have read some places on the net of using a cooler plug like a 41-993 gapped at .045, but others have reported issues with that.

All comments welcome.
  • How much oil is the engine using? If it is excessive, that would tell you that engine work is next.
  • this article covers the misting of engine oil
    Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)


    Boy racers use these things
    Crankcase Pressure Control
    I'd just make my own using PVC pipe, a plastic tuffy scoring pad and plumbing


    an invention to deal with open valley misting into the intake manifold
    US Patent: Engine cylinder block and valley cover therefor


    Even a stuck piston ring, or worn engine oil ring on one or more of
    the pistons


    Check your PCV/EGR valaves and their runners...still say to blow it out every
    once in a while
  • That is oil fouled and for the early 8.1L...from the open area underneath the
    intake manifold. Subsequent had a sheetmetal pan covering it

    All ICE's mist engine oil. Some has a direct route into the intake...others via
    the PVC system

    Here are the plugs from my 'built' 5.7L 1980 Silverado.



    The 'white stuff' is engine oil burned to ash...there are fuel mineral deposits on
    all but not this thick.

    Turned out to be a cracked heads (both). The porting/polishing/flowed
    shop removed a bit too much of the head and intake manifold (Edelberock
    High Raise Performer)

    These are OEM from my 7.4L and also notice the fuel mineral deposits and the wear
    on the ground electrode. Shows the direction of the flame path due to the swirl
    (Vortec)



    The broken ceramic is most likely from a misfire/pre-ignition/etc. More of a problem
    on larger displacement.

    I'm not a fan of these expensive, 100K mile plugs and prefer copper cored
    traditional plugs that have been 'cut back'. Change them around 30K
    or so

    Here is what I have in my dad's Caddy STS and really upped its performance





    This is what I now have in my 7.4L






    Before cutting


    just before the cut and has the plug box cardboard shielding the rest
    of the plug


    Just after the cut



    Not many will ever notice but I do.

    Think you need to go out and 'blow it out' more often
  • I am certainly not an expert by any means, but I am going with burnt oil fouled, especially plug from the #4 cylinder. That white residue is oil ash. With 170,000 miles on the engine and plugs with 30,000 miles, it adds up to oil.
  • What makes you think there was no oil on the plugs? Cause that's what it looks like to me. How often do you change the oil, and what do you use?