Camper Platform

The rubber mat is a good idea that was lost due to the plywood installed afterwards. There is no way the camper will not slide around now. I have the same problem on my 2000 Ford F350 but rather then raise the camper, I put in a 4" spacer between the camper front and the front of the pick up box, moving the camper aft 4". Clears bumper by 2" now. Not sure what on your camper will hit the bumper as you didn't give year and model of camper.

I haven't owned a TC for several years but I wanted to keep my TC up off the metal bed where moisture could get to under side. I used 3/4" plywood that I used wood sealer on. I also sealed the under side of the camper which had no paint or sealer.

You should not tighten up the tie-downs too tight. You can place too much stress on the campers anchors. It is possible to do damage to the camper that way. Its ok for the camper to move a little. Lance uses front cabover shocks to dampen the camper pitching.
http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23379570/print/true.cfm
For general info. There are torlift videos on Youtube to show you how to adjust them for proper tensioning.

A rubber mat will keep the camper from sliding. I have seen a rubber mat, plywood for height and then another rubber mat on top of that OR use 2x2 interlocking foam flooring , less expensive and does the job.

other options: found in the projects section of the forum.
http://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16957495.cfm

projects section

Hi,
It is a 2011 Ascent Chalet, 6 foot bed, no slide outs. Gross is 4000 lbs. I already have a 4 inch block in front to push the TC away from the front box overhang. What is hitting is the camper overhang on the rear bumper. I don't really want to move it any further back if I can avoid it.

you are right that the camper slams around with the pieces of plywood under the mat. Although that doesn't seem to be the problem, the rubber mat acts like a big shock absorber and allows the whole camper to bounce too much, it gets really close to my truck roof.

Maybe I'll replace the mat with plywood that is double sided with armor coating, then it won't slide and the plywood would fit tight between wheel wells?
Thx again.
F

PS. Bobndot thanks for the links, after reading I think I may try my armor coated plywood idea and no mat to reduce porpoising.

Since you have already moved the camper back 4" and it still hits the rear bumper that the manufacturer's design leaves something to be desired. Have you investigated the possibility of lowering the rear bumper for clearance? My camper sits on a pick up bed that was Linexed and is a very good non-skid for the camper floor. Your idea of a plywood spacer that has a non-skip finish would be good if you either apply the non-skid to your truck bed or screw the plywood to the bed. I would suggest you look into Torklift Fastgun tiedowns. Far superior to chain set ups.

Hi Sparky,
Yes I already have torklift fastguns on my setup, my truck bed has factory linex applied for no slip. I will look to see if I can lower the bumper. Also I need the height because my roof lights are very close with all the porpoising.

Also, thx for answering that your camper sits right on a linexed floor, as I wanted to know what other peoples setup is.
Thx
Frank

You miss the point: The camper is going to move no matter what you put under it.

You could pour a 2" concrete pad in the bottom of your truck bed and the camper will still bounce independent of the truck.

Sounds like you need a little more underneath the camper to get it up and away from the truck cab roof.

Sparky87k5 wrote:
I would suggest you look into Torklift Fastgun tiedowns. Far superior to chain set ups.

I am not sure I understand that. Of course the ease of use factor is great but do they offer a superior hold down function?

I used two sheets of 3/4" OSB to raise my camper up on my Ford bed. Some folks have used two 4x8 sheets of pink styrofoam insullation with good results. I wish that I would have tried the pink, firm, insullation first.