Chain hanger-gadget

I have a utility trailer I tow with two separate tow vehicles. The chains are the perfect length for one of them, and WAY too long for the other. When I tow with the vehicle that needs the chains shorter, I use a pair of these Double Clevis Links to shorten the chains.

Hi Larry,
Yep, as is the case many times, talking to different "experts" can result in different answers. Years ago I had a question about something or another, and called two different Missouri highway patrol offices, and got two different answers to the same question.

Of course this whole discussion about safety chains really begs the basic issue of it: Hitch it correctly in first place ! I've been towing since 1968 and never, not once has a safety chain come into play. But then, neither have safety belts or shoulder belts saved me either, but I still use them :)

When I strap loads onto my flatdeck trailer, I use double the number of ratchet straps vs the DOT requirement. Some would say I am wasting time to do so, but hey, being an old retired fart, I got more time than money.

EDIT: regarding the idea of having to twist the chains to "shorten" them, a good solution is the way my Titan horse trailer attaches the chains at the trailer. I'll have to post a picture of it, but it's easily adjusted as to which link in the chain attaches to the trailer Good design.

gmw photos wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

gmw photos wrote:

joshuajim wrote:
Consider this. The chains on my 10,800# Wildwood measure .333 inch. Thats less than a 3/8" chain. Probably is a Chinese manufacture chain of questionable quality and given FR's push on cost control is probably a grade 30 chain. That means that it might have a strength as low as 1900#. The chains bear no markings (43 or 70). To meet DOT requirements, each chain would have to be a full 3/8" grade 70 chain.

I think the chains the manufacturer installs are mostly cosmetic.

With all due respect, I don't think that is a correct statement.

A chain with a material dia of .333" is most likely 5/16" chain. That size of grade 30 chain would have a WLL of 1900 lbs., but a min breaking strength of 7600 lbs. The pair would have a combined strength of 15,200 lbs, which would meet DOT req for your 10,800 lb trailer.

Close, but I think you will find the DOT requirement is for EACH SAFETY CHAIN must have a breaking strength equal to or greater than the trailers GVWR. My post above went into these details along with the strength of the next grade up 5/16 chain.

Larry

Well Larry, close....but not quite. From the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Admin:

Question 2: When two safety chains are used, must the ultimate combined breaking strength of each chain be equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s) or would the requirements be met if the combined breaking strength of the two chains is equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s)?

Guidance: If the ultimate combined breaking strength of the two chains is equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s), the requirements of §393.70(d) are satisfied. It should be noted that some States may have more stringent requirements for safety chains.

https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/title49/section/393.70

Well that link certainly throws gas on this issue, but your right it says what you posted as the DOT requirement. However, now that begs the question since even the DOT FAQ Guidance says "some States may have more stringent requirements for safety chains" what should the strength of each chain actually be. I also now wonder why well known and respected experts in the industry such as e-Trailer HERE and Peerless Chain HERE both say that "EACH CHAIN" must have a strength equal to the GVWR of the trailer?????

Now the real question is what is one to do:S:h

Reading thru section 393 of the DOT CFR it says each safety device (and towed vehicles need one or more safety devices) must meet that GVWR requirement and it talks about one or two safety chains so while the FAQ is clear I can't resolve whether in fact the regs consider each chain a safety device or the pair of chains as one safety device. That link you provided is "FAQ Guidance" and I'm unclear on what real weight one should give that information. For me either that FAQ guidance is right or both Peerless, e-trailer and maybe other experts in this field are all wrong. I can't see how both can be right:h:E

Larry

Seems like every time I rent a UHaul trailer to move evidence/artifacts the Uhaul technician twists the chains to shorten them.

Cute but not an issue for me.

LarryJM wrote:

gmw photos wrote:

joshuajim wrote:
Consider this. The chains on my 10,800# Wildwood measure .333 inch. Thats less than a 3/8" chain. Probably is a Chinese manufacture chain of questionable quality and given FR's push on cost control is probably a grade 30 chain. That means that it might have a strength as low as 1900#. The chains bear no markings (43 or 70). To meet DOT requirements, each chain would have to be a full 3/8" grade 70 chain.

I think the chains the manufacturer installs are mostly cosmetic.

With all due respect, I don't think that is a correct statement.

A chain with a material dia of .333" is most likely 5/16" chain. That size of grade 30 chain would have a WLL of 1900 lbs., but a min breaking strength of 7600 lbs. The pair would have a combined strength of 15,200 lbs, which would meet DOT req for your 10,800 lb trailer.

Close, but I think you will find the DOT requirement is for EACH SAFETY CHAIN must have a breaking strength equal to or greater than the trailers GVWR. My post above went into these details along with the strength of the next grade up 5/16 chain.

Larry

Well Larry, close....but not quite. From the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Admin:

Question 2: When two safety chains are used, must the ultimate combined breaking strength of each chain be equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s) or would the requirements be met if the combined breaking strength of the two chains is equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s)?

Guidance: If the ultimate combined breaking strength of the two chains is equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s), the requirements of §393.70(d) are satisfied. It should be noted that some States may have more stringent requirements for safety chains.

https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/title49/section/393.70

gmw photos wrote:

joshuajim wrote:
Consider this. The chains on my 10,800# Wildwood measure .333 inch. Thats less than a 3/8" chain. Probably is a Chinese manufacture chain of questionable quality and given FR's push on cost control is probably a grade 30 chain. That means that it might have a strength as low as 1900#. The chains bear no markings (43 or 70). To meet DOT requirements, each chain would have to be a full 3/8" grade 70 chain.

I think the chains the manufacturer installs are mostly cosmetic.

With all due respect, I don't think that is a correct statement.

A chain with a material dia of .333" is most likely 5/16" chain. That size of grade 30 chain would have a WLL of 1900 lbs., but a min breaking strength of 7600 lbs. The pair would have a combined strength of 15,200 lbs, which would meet DOT req for your 10,800 lb trailer.

Close, but I think you will find the DOT requirement is for EACH SAFETY CHAIN must have a breaking strength equal to or greater than the trailers GVWR. My post above went into these details along with the strength of the next grade up 5/16 chain.

Larry

joshuajim wrote:
Consider this. The chains on my 10,800# Wildwood measure .333 inch. Thats less than a 3/8" chain. Probably is a Chinese manufacture chain of questionable quality and given FR's push on cost control is probably a grade 30 chain. That means that it might have a strength as low as 1900#. The chains bear no markings (43 or 70). To meet DOT requirements, each chain would have to be a full 3/8" grade 70 chain.

I think the chains the manufacturer installs are mostly cosmetic.

With all due respect, I don't think that is a correct statement.

A chain with a material dia of .333" is most likely 5/16" chain. That size of grade 30 chain would have a WLL of 1900 lbs., but a min breaking strength of 7600 lbs. The pair would have a combined strength of 15,200 lbs, which would meet DOT req for your 10,800 lb trailer.

I just use a short rubber bungee cord

Ralph Cramden wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

Ralph Cramden wrote:

drsteve wrote:
Twisting the chains to shorten them is not a good idea.

https://mechanicalelements.com/twisting-safety-chains/

LOL, the guy who wrote that dissertation has to be a member of an RV forum. Talk about complicating the uncomplicated. It's a safety chain for a trailer, not rigging for the erection of a precast box girder for a highway overpass.

Twisting a turn or two to take up slack will never hurt a **** thing. He should write up an article about how the RV manufacturers attach the chains to the A frame which is the weak point about 99% of the time. It's usually a small length of 3/8" rod through both chains and welded by some half assed welder at Lippert.

While some might give your post and opinion some weight, I think it is one that I would recommend others to completely disregard and view as pure speculation and hyerbole. The article you dismiss is IMO very informative and excellent and clearly suggests that twisting safety chains enough to significantly effect their length which is what we are discussing here is CLEARLY NOT A PRUDENT IDEA and proves clearly that twisting WILL REDUCE their strength.

Also, IMO your blanket statement about the attachment point being the week link is IMO again GROSSLY EXAGGERATED and FALSE. Below is an actual picture of a single attachment point on my trailer which I believe to be a Lippert frame since it has Lippert axles, but I can't be 100% sure. It clearly shows the diameter of the rod used for the attachment point is MUCH larger than the chain and appears to be close to twice the diameter of the chain. While I can't give quantitative numbers (I don't factually know the specific type of material of either the chains or attachment point shown in the picture) it is clear to me and should be to others that the attachment point is not insignificant strength wise and since it only needs to equal the GVWR of the trailer like each chain it's entirely plausible that could well be true for the 7500lb GVWR trailer shown in this picture.



My recommendation is DO NOT TWIST your safety chains to shorten them!!!

ON EDIT One final point is that if you twist the chains enough to effect their length I would think this could result in each chain being a different length when under tension in a break away scenario. If you believe as I do having the chains crossed and equal lengths will help keeping a disconnected trailer centered behind the TV in a breakaway scenario twisting them could adversely effect that significantly.

Larry

"I think", "IMO", "IMO again", "suggests that twisting", "which I believe", "I can't be 100% sure", and "I don't factually know".

Followed by "clearly shows", "clearly suggests", "proves clearly" and "could adversely" LOL.

I give you.......The Chain Police...........Sorry I got your panties all twisted Larry.

At least I'm honest and not stating pure speculation as fact like you did. If you can't understand your "twisting a turn or two won't hurt a thing" w/o supporting facts is a disservice to members reading your post then I guess your followup post definitely gives readers a clear understanding of what should be given the correct weight in making their own informed conclusions since you were unable to address the actual information I presented, but only to attempt to disparage the poster who correctly presented the information with the appropriate caveats. Unlike you I even tried to give actual pictures (i.e. what you called "the weak link" in the chain attachment point) clearly IMO demonstrating the baseless and bum information in your post that you presented somehow as factual.

BTW I will wear whatever badge you want to give me and thank you for caring about my panties, but they are just fine and probably less twisted than yours ;)


Larry