Changing wheel sizes - advice welcome!
Our current TV is a 2010 Chevrolet Express G3500 12-passenger van. It started as a basic fleet white van and we've slowly upgraded a few things over the last year to help it look more like a private ...
Forum Discussion
Note that you are about to re-engineer the suspension and have to make sure you
understand the various attributes that need attention
Not just wheel dia and rim width (bead to bead...not some of the marketing
where they use outside to outside)
Wheel ratings a min...weight rating and PSI rating.
Valve stems must match the PSI requirement. I like 200PSI on all load
range E or higher tires.
Hub centric or lug centric
Lug nut type and the locks you might consider to protect this investment.
Rim width must be in the tire manufacturers recommendation for 'that' tire
OEO off set must be kept, else the loading on the bearings will change, as will
the steering angles and moments (lever arms). As will steering and
braking...off set one way will have the wheels turn in while braking
and turn out while braking (positive or negative offset to zero offset)
The total weight of the resultant wheel and tire will have an effect on the
unsprung weight and it should be as close to the OEM number as possible. Ride
quality is the main issue, but handling does come into play as if it is heavier
the shocks will have more weight to manage (and wear out sooner if too much
weight is added)
Maintenance can be an issue if you don't wash/polish often. More so if you live
in adverse weather conditions (road salts, etc)
As for the tires, the aspect ratio is what most are referencing when
they talk about sidewall height or a number (85, 75, 70, 60, 55, 50
and so on, which is the aspect ratio)
Here is a link to the best all in one wheel/suspension/tire site found
to date. Go there and read up before you make a purchase, my recommendation...
Best wheel/suspension/tire info site I've found to date
understand the various attributes that need attention
Not just wheel dia and rim width (bead to bead...not some of the marketing
where they use outside to outside)
Wheel ratings a min...weight rating and PSI rating.
Valve stems must match the PSI requirement. I like 200PSI on all load
range E or higher tires.
Hub centric or lug centric
Lug nut type and the locks you might consider to protect this investment.
Rim width must be in the tire manufacturers recommendation for 'that' tire
OEO off set must be kept, else the loading on the bearings will change, as will
the steering angles and moments (lever arms). As will steering and
braking...off set one way will have the wheels turn in while braking
and turn out while braking (positive or negative offset to zero offset)
The total weight of the resultant wheel and tire will have an effect on the
unsprung weight and it should be as close to the OEM number as possible. Ride
quality is the main issue, but handling does come into play as if it is heavier
the shocks will have more weight to manage (and wear out sooner if too much
weight is added)
Maintenance can be an issue if you don't wash/polish often. More so if you live
in adverse weather conditions (road salts, etc)
As for the tires, the aspect ratio is what most are referencing when
they talk about sidewall height or a number (85, 75, 70, 60, 55, 50
and so on, which is the aspect ratio)
Here is a link to the best all in one wheel/suspension/tire site found
to date. Go there and read up before you make a purchase, my recommendation...
Best wheel/suspension/tire info site I've found to date
