I have a Keystone TT that the 12v lights start to get dim but if I turn the microwave on for 3 seconds or the coffee pot the lights get brighter and the problem goes away for a few hours. If I don't put a surge to it the battery goes dead. If I do the battery will charge till it finishes a full charge and it all happens again. Shore power runs all except interior lights, heater and radio. This seems to be a relay problem of some type. The battery was changed but still did not fix the problem.. Any advice you all have would be cool!

Hello. What is the make and model of the converter?Also what year is the travel trailer?With this information we should be able to assist you better...Sounds like a converter issue and most likely best to replace with an upgrade then try to repair...

Do you have a DC meter? The battery should measure roughly 12.8V if fully charged and shore power disconnected. Then plug in shore power and the battery voltage should be over 13V with the converter charging it. The microwave and coffee pot only work from 120V AC shore power but the lights are likely 12V and operate from the battery/converter. Then what does the battery voltage do when you use the microwave/coffee pot? Your symptoms are unusual but maybe we can help you.

2008 Keystone Hideout 30ftIt is a PPS Series 7100 Model 7155 Imput 105-130 vac 60Hz 975 wattsOutput 55 amps 13.6 VDC12 VDC Fuseblock Branch Circuit fuse size 20AClass CTL Panel Board type 1 Max 30 amps

IMO that fixed voltage converter is worth replacing even if working fine.

The battery does run the lights Wayne but it is almost like the charger wont kick in unless I put a load on the 110 and when I do the charger starts working to recover the battery.

Charging Problem | Good Sam Community

WayneAt63044
Explorer
Dec 19, 2014
I'm curious Keith, did you find the cause of your issue?
Dakota98
Explorer
Dec 19, 2014
lawrosa wrote:
Dakota98 wrote:
Just curious, but by what method are you determining the batteries are "fully charged" ?

My pararalex 6332 runs the whole camper with the battery disconnected.. This in in a 2003 camper, so the op's 2008 camper should do the same...

My question pertained to if a multimeter was used to measure voltage with no load on the battery or if the OP was looking at the monitor panel to determine SOC.
budwich
Explorer
Dec 18, 2014
I would check / clean / tighten connections in and around the fuse / distribution panel. It sounds like a corrosion / loose connection issue.
lawrosa
Explorer
Dec 18, 2014
Dakota98 wrote:
Just curious, but by what method are you determining the batteries are "fully charged" ?

My pararalex 6332 runs the whole camper with the battery disconnected.. This in in a 2003 camper, so the op's 2008 camper should do the same...
Dakota98
Explorer
Dec 18, 2014
Just curious, but by what method are you determining the batteries are "fully charged" ?
pianotuna
Nomad III
Dec 18, 2014
Hi,

I'd just jump to a brand new converter. Choices are PD, Iota, and boondocker. All three have good features, but none of them is perfect.
lawrosa
Explorer
Dec 18, 2014
What series?

You can find trouble shooting docs here..

http://www.parallaxpower.com/archived-tech-docs

I would not replace with a charge wizard type as shown in a post below...

You can get a new lower end for yours if found to be faulty..

Best to upgrade with a temp compensated model IMO right from PP
WayneAt63044
Explorer
Dec 18, 2014
I don't have an answer for you at this time; still thinking on it. I'd still be curious to know the voltages under the conditions I mentioned before, maybe it would reveal another clue. It is perhaps just me but I dislike replacing parts until a diagnosis is made. Saves $ too. Maybe another poster has an idea and will weigh in.
KeithOrn
Explorer
Dec 18, 2014
The battery does run the lights Wayne but it is almost like the charger wont kick in unless I put a load on the 110 and when I do the charger starts working to recover the battery.
time2roll
Nomad
Dec 18, 2014
IMO that fixed voltage converter is worth replacing even if working fine.