I have a 1998 Fold n Roll trailer. It has a patent pending (as of 1998) no load hitch. This is basically two small airplane tires mounted under the hitch on a 360 degree swivel.I am trying to find a chock (or pair) that will keep the trailer from moving AND the front tires from spinning when I have to level the back tires on boards.Aircraft Spruce suggested this but I don't think it will stop the tires from spinning.Any ideas?I'm thinking I may have to make a U shaped wood chock that is tall enough that the tires can't spin right over it. But if anyone has a ready made suggestion or better idea for a homemade, I'm interested.Thanks.

Hard to visualize without a photo.

Not sure I understand what exactly you have, but you posted this is a solution....Maybe to "stop the wheels from spinning" you could cut a channel or deep grove in each chock to wedge the wheel in????Is this what you have?

Yes. That is what I have. I posted a photo of the tires, but now it's not showing.The chocks shown are what the aircraft shop suggested as "might work", but I think the curve is too minimal to prevent the tires from spinning.

Are the wheels retractable? Do they have to be down? Can you just use the tow vehicle to move the trailer up on the blocks and then put the jack down to hold the trailer in place? I don't guess I understand what causes the wheels to "spin".Here is a photo without the wheels.

The front wheels do not raise off the ground. They are always on the ground.Because of the front wheels, I can only lower the front of the trailer so much. If the parking pad has enough of a slope, I have to level the trailer by putting the rear tires on blocks. When I do that, even with the levelers down, when I walk around inside, the front tires spin around and jump the standard wheel chock, then the back tires roll off the blocks.So, when I have to raise both sides of the rear, I need to be able to chock the front tires so they don't spin in a circle.The two front tires are attached together and swivel as a pair.

Chocks for "No Load Hitch" wheels | Good Sam Community

toedtoes
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2019
I'm not removing the wheels. This is how the trailer was made and I intend to keep it original. NRALIFR has provided me with a great diagram and I will be putting it into effect. I thank everyone for their suggestions.
Jacksons
Explorer
Feb 14, 2019
if you use lynx leveling blocks they have a wheel chock that works great (rear wheels) link to lynx video
Heiny57
Explorer
Feb 14, 2019
I’m not sure what the advantages are of having the tires on there gives you. Thousands of trailers don’t have them. It seems like it would give someone the idea they could easily push it around until it got away from them and crashed into something. I would remove them and use as every other camper is designed. ?????
wnjj
Explorer II
Feb 13, 2019
toedtoes wrote:
wnjj wrote:
If the rear axle is chocked solidly (front and back of each tire), why is anything needed at the front? A conventional trailer should not be relying on the tongue jack to prevent movement. How is this one any different in that regard?

Because of the front tires, I can only lower the front so much. I have been where the parking pad is at a slope so that the rear is too low. In those cases, I have to raise the rear axle on blocks and then I can't chock them.

In addition, because the front tires swivel 360 degrees, sometimes when the dogs move around a lot, the movement can cause the front to swivel which in turn moves the rest of the trailer.

So, by chocking the front tires against movement and swivel, I make the entire trailer more movement proof.

I get the minimal movement thing, but you really should continue to chock the rear tires, even on blocks. Get longer blocks if you need to and/or ones you can lock chocks into.
toedtoes
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2019
I'll add that this no load hitch changes the standarx "trailer handling" that you come to expect.

The other day, my boss wanted to move the trailer after I unhitched it. He said "let's just push it back in, it's not that heavy". I let him. The front tires swiveled 360 on him and he realized there was no way to steer it. Had to get the forlift attachment to back it in.

It's just different :)
toedtoes
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2019
wnjj wrote:
If the rear axle is chocked solidly (front and back of each tire), why is anything needed at the front? A conventional trailer should not be relying on the tongue jack to prevent movement. How is this one any different in that regard?

Because of the front tires, I can only lower the front so much. I have been where the parking pad is at a slope so that the rear is too low. In those cases, I have to raise the rear axle on blocks and then I can't chock them.

In addition, because the front tires swivel 360 degrees, sometimes when the dogs move around a lot, the movement can cause the front to swivel which in turn moves the rest of the trailer.

So, by chocking the front tires against movement and swivel, I make the entire trailer more movement proof.
wnjj
Explorer II
Feb 13, 2019
If the rear axle is chocked solidly (front and back of each tire), why is anything needed at the front? A conventional trailer should not be relying on the tongue jack to prevent movement. How is this one any different in that regard?
toedtoes
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2019
I didn't think I'd find one. They do show up occasionally, but you have to be quick.
Jebby14
Explorer
Feb 13, 2019
shame they aren't common. I would be all over something like that.
toedtoes
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2019
Boband4 wrote:
Recommend one for each side, and they pin together to totally enclose both wheels. Two individual units will also be easier to handle than one larger single unit.

Thanks. Yep, that's the plan. Eye screws and rope to connect them for ease of carrying too.

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Chocks for "No Load Hitch" wheels

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