Clogged EGR Valve at 19k miles

coolbreeze01 wrote:
Not a flaw, its how it is. Use the EB without the TH in town or any time you don't want the automatic downshifting.

Again, I cannot use EB OR T/H in town. The transmission programming changes with either turned on. The slamming is way too hard. Hard enough that I would assume damage can occur in the tranny. I use EB when on the highway. I do not use T/H even on highway because I do not like the shift points. Instead I use the rocker switch to control gearing manually when climbing hills etc. The EB works excellent on the highway when going down steep grades. Rarely have to use brakes.

mileshuff wrote:

Bionic Man wrote:
Run the exhaust brake when you are running around town.

Can't do that. At least on the 2007 Rams there is a flaw in the transmission programming that has never been resolved. Turning the EB on in town often causes the tranny to slam hard when slowing from around 35mph. Not just a little harsh...it slams!! This has been reported by numerous people. Something in shift points is changed when using the EB and/or T/H mode. I can only use either when on the highway.

Not a flaw, its how it is. Use the EB without the TH in town or any time you don't want the automatic downshifting.

mileshuff wrote:

Bionic Man wrote:
Run the exhaust brake when you are running around town.

Can't do that. At least on the 2007 Rams there is a flaw in the transmission programming that has never been resolved. Turning the EB on in town often causes the tranny to slam hard when slowing from around 35mph. Not just a little harsh...it slams!! This has been reported by numerous people. Something in shift points is changed when using the EB and/or T/H mode. I can only use either when on the highway.

:H I've been running mine for 8 years now that way, no slamming of gears. It will lockup the TC though which kind of feels like a shift but again no slamming. 2006 was the 1st year they offered it with the auto tranny. Previous years did have that problem thus Ram didn't offer it.

Bionic Man wrote:
Run the exhaust brake when you are running around town.

Can't do that. At least on the 2007 Rams there is a flaw in the transmission programming that has never been resolved. Turning the EB on in town often causes the tranny to slam hard when slowing from around 35mph. Not just a little harsh...it slams!! This has been reported by numerous people. Something in shift points is changed when using the EB and/or T/H mode. I can only use either when on the highway.

Yep at the price of their fuel filters ($165 installed) they should have a whole lot of confidence I would think! That thing is as big as the one I have on my Ram.

Her S-80 has the dreaded surging idle. So now that it's warm again I'm going to have to pull the TB and clean it. It's about an hour job to do but the stealer told her that it would need to be replaced and quoted her over $1,300 to do it! Have to say after buying it for her I would NEVER own another Volvo ever again. These things have the poorest quality I have ever seen. I would get her a Kea before I would buy anther Volvo.

Don

Don,

Interesting on the Volvo. IMHO that make me question their confidence in their fuel filters and system.

1000 rpms isn't considered idle, Cummins specifically says to avoid excessive idling, above 10 minutes, to avoid engine damage. 3-5 minutes of idle max on a cold engine.

I use the cruise control option all the time, hot or cold. I still avoid cold operation. It's best to fire it up, let oil pressure build and drive it easy until it's warm. They just do not build enough heat idling, even at 1000 RPMs.

John my DD has a Volvo S-80 and in the owners manual it says to use a good fuel system cleaner with every tank of fuel. Cummins "does not recommend" using any fuel additives but if you want to they are OK with it.

As far as idling a diesel cold. There is nothing wrong with doing that and in fact it is recommended as long as you kick the idle up to at least 1000 RPM. My Ram (and yours) also has a fast idle feature to do just that. You turn on the cruise, hit set and the idle bumps up to 1000 RPM. You can push the + or resume button five times to bump it up to 1500 by 100 RPM increments. You should never let a diesel set and idle under 1000 RPM's for any extended time as unburnt fuel can and will end up in the crank case and dilute the oil, no mater what the outside temperature is.

Don

Sea foam is a major no-no in diesel fuel, it will emulsify any water to the point where it cannot be separated and will go thru the injectors.

just me wrote:
Cummins does not recommend any additive. Cause the tolerances are so close, additives might loosen some junk and might foul up the injectors. Remember they are like GOLD if you have to replace them out of your pocket. Good clean fuel only.

No manufacturer can recommend them, it would be tabu to make an engine or fuel system that needed additives.

That being said there is a complete line of additives from Fleetguard, aka Cummins Filtration. What does that say?

The loseing up junk is a misnomer, that's what fuel filters are for. If you have junk in the fuel sustem between the filter and injectors then I have bad news for you, the damage is unavoidable.

ULSD is a much drier fuel and requires additive to have enough lubricity, the fuel stations/distributors are supposed to add this. Do you trust them to not forget?

I run Amsoil diesel concentrate every tank, and always have, so I cannot comment on effectiveness, but I like the added lubricity, fuel stabilization, and cleaner. Then again I run 2 additional fuel filters since I want to protect my fuel system a little better than OEM does.



To the OP, the current software for the 07.5-12 6.7 is much better and failures are now very rare. That being said they do take heat to do ther emissions business. If you do lots of short trips run a winter front, even into spring. Also one the motor is above about 140 use the exhaust brake as often as possible, it add/maintains heat and keeps the turbo turbine vanes clear of excess soot buildup. I do t recommend doing it instantly in a cold motor as the backpressure and dirty combustion can easily put excess soot i to the oil before the pistons and cylinder walls warm up.

Don't idle cold, ever. This is one of the worst things you can do for a diesel (6.7 or not). A diesel takes too long to warm up without a load, so just idling is hard on the motor and produces a dirty and incomplete combustion. If you want heat faster on a cold morning get an outdoor timer and a use the block heater in conjunction with the winter front.

You don't have to drive it like you stole it, but it does need to be driven with a little higher power production from time to time.

Cummins does not recommend any additive. Cause the tolerances are so close, additives might loosen some junk and might foul up the injectors. Remember they are like GOLD if you have to replace them out of your pocket. Good clean fuel only.

Run the exhaust brake when you are running around town.