Coating exposed luan plywood with ??

Keysman wrote:
Well, I went with the West System and am very impressed with the result. I used the slow curing hardener and had plenty of time to spread the epoxy with a 7" roller with a 1/8" foam roller recommended by the seller. Was about $156.00 for gallon of resin, quart of hardener, throw away brush and the foam roller. Went on really well and am satisfied with the product so far.

However, after using goggles, a respirator, long sleeve shirt and chemical resistant gloves I got an extreme allergic reaction from the epoxy. Hands, face, arms legs and private parts. Really nasty. Went to the doctor for a steroid shot on day 2. After five days still waiting for it to clear up. So be careful with this stuff. Only got one coat on but will have to do for now. Will get a semi hazmat suit the next time I use this stuff. Might even have to hire somebody to do it. Thanks for the suggestions.

Good work on the underbelly!
Yeah, some paints can be very irritating, especially to those sensitive to certain chemicals. The worst I've had was an Imron 3 part primer. A few guys got really tore up when using it. The good news is that any effects seem short-lived and awareness of toxicity was increased.
I'm somewhat sensitive to Xylene and take a lot of precaution if I have to use it or products containing it.
Hope you're on the mend.

Depending on how much epoxy you use in one spot (as in thick) and if it makes direct contact with the foam it will melt do to the heat that is produced by the epoxy as it cures. Iv had plastic Solo cups melt to half their size.

workhardplayharder wrote:
Fiberglass resin cut with denatured alcohol to a very thin mixture. Apply to plywood with a paint brush. The mixture will soak into the wood and the alcohol will evaporate away. Re-apply 2nd and 3rd coats before the resin dries. Practice with some scrap wood to find the right mixture and dry times.

When many boats were made using wood products this is how it was done. If it is fully coated, no problem

How does the styrofoam react to epoxies like the rot doctor?

Well, I went with the West System and am very impressed with the result. I used the slow curing hardener and had plenty of time to spread the epoxy with a 7" roller with a 1/8" foam roller recommended by the seller. Was about $156.00 for gallon of resin, quart of hardener, throw away brush and the foam roller. Went on really well and am satisfied with the product so far.

However, after using goggles, a respirator, long sleeve shirt and chemical resistant gloves I got an extreme allergic reaction from the epoxy. Hands, face, arms legs and private parts. Really nasty. Went to the doctor for a steroid shot on day 2. After five days still waiting for it to clear up. So be careful with this stuff. Only got one coat on but will have to do for now. Will get a semi hazmat suit the next time I use this stuff. Might even have to hire somebody to do it. Thanks for the suggestions.

west system is great for this, but may be overkill.
since as I understand this is underneath the trailer,
gravity kinda keeps things flowing off, so I'd probably
try a one part marine paint like brightsides. it adheres
well, and two coats will really work great for sealing wood.
Rick

DHCamper wrote:
West System is the Gold standard for what you need: West System

I agree 100%

You can paint/spray the exposed wood, but you still have the issue of sealing around the edges of where you cut away the Darco undercovering. I have used an underbelly repair tape like this in the past and it works well. Click the pic for the website. Enables to re-seal the bottom better than factory.

I'd brush on a coat of ROT DOCTOR, and then spray the bottom with a good guality automotive spray undercoating, that will provide a sealed bottom, and the spray will get into every nick and craney.

Fiberglass resin cut with denatured alcohol to a very thin mixture. Apply to plywood with a paint brush. The mixture will soak into the wood and the alcohol will evaporate away. Re-apply 2nd and 3rd coats before the resin dries. Practice with some scrap wood to find the right mixture and dry times.