converter box delete

Nvr2loud wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
If you tow it the law requires a battery powered breakaway system. The converter charges the battery of the system.

This is not law everywhere.

It is in the USA.

beemerphile1 wrote:
If you tow it the law requires a battery powered breakaway system. The converter charges the battery of the system.

This is not law everywhere.

Its a 70s coachman trailer. But ive decided to just leave it as is. As my furnace and hwh uses 12v .

If you tow it the law requires a battery powered breakaway system. The converter charges the battery of the system.

This is a typical 30AMP Power Distribution of the RV Units... They are all there for a reason... The RV Trailer is a very unique functional design and loved by many users. I would not disable the 12VDC source as you can see a whole lot of your trailer systems uses that. It is not just for boondocking...



There are some SAFETY ISSUES as well that only runs on 12VDC... One very important safety issue would be the CO DETECTOR...

Take a look at all the items that are connected to 12VDC side of the power distribution. None of those will work if you remove your 12VDC source of power (Battery and Converter/charger). The parasitic drains associated with all the 12VDC controller and other connections for your appliances will drain your on-board battery in less than a week. It will just barley last over night night if you are running your 12VDC BLOWER associated with the 120VAC Furnace operations.

Another issue is your BATTERY will not be maintained when connected to shore power. The BATTERY is a very important item and is required by DOT to be operational when you are towing your trailer over public DOT roads. You would be breaking a DOT LAW by not having the 12VDC system but more importantly be a safety hazard in the eyes of the law. This could go very bad for you if the runaway trailer did alot of damage or worse and your insurance would most likely not cover you... This 12VDC is required to immediately activate your trailer brakes in the event your run-away trailer becomes disconnected from your truck when going down the road. This is a DOT SAFETY requirement...

Good luck with your decision on not using the 12VDC side of the power distribution center. As you can see the 12VDC is really required to operate most of your trailer installed features.

Even your AM/FM radio will not work without 12VDC power... No Johnny Cash country music for you my friend haha...

Just my thoughts
Roy Ken

If your breaker box is divided into 120 volt breakers and 12 volt fuses; then just pull the 12 volt fuses and see what is left.

Keep in mind; it is a TT not a house. It is designed to operate on both 12 volt and 120 volts. Usually the “necessary” components are 12 volt and the “convenience” features like The microwave, television and etc. are on the 120 volt circuit.

Switching it all to 120 V can be done but it is simpler to just use it as designed.

n7bsn wrote:

sch911 wrote:
OK so you don't use your fridge, your lights, your furnace, your air conditioner, or your water pump then?

What they said.
Your lights are certainly all 12V. If you think you can just replace the bulbs with 110V and wire the leads into your 110 you will have problems.
None of the wires or switches are rated for 110, which means they will fail, and maybe start a fire.

Your propane furnace will not work, it needs 12V to control it. Unlike your home furnace, it is not designed to generate the low voltage needed to control the thermostat. Since this thermostat also controls the A/C, no air conditioning.

The same is true for your water-heater.

What we are telling you is this is a poorly conceived idea.

if you read what wrote i have a window unit and is plugged into the wall. Living room light is a ceiling fan.as far as the furnace, yes you are correct i didnt think that through plus all trailer power is run through my converter box so i will be leaving it alone.

sch911 wrote:
OK so you don't use your fridge, your lights, your furnace, your air conditioner, or your water pump then?

What they said.
Your lights are certainly all 12V. If you think you can just replace the bulbs with 110V and wire the leads into your 110 you will have problems.
None of the wires or switches are rated for 110, which means they will fail, and maybe start a fire.

Your propane furnace will not work, it needs 12V to control it. Unlike your home furnace, it is not designed to generate the low voltage needed to control the thermostat. Since this thermostat also controls the A/C, no air conditioning.

The same is true for your water-heater.

What we are telling you is this is a poorly conceived idea.

I flipped the breaker to it and it cuts my 110 power.im guessing it distributes all the power.its a 40 amp converter box. Which seems pretty big

Some of your lights and your refridgerator and hot water tank use 12v for the controls.