Converting to Electric Roof Lift?

My Outfitter Apex has an air conditioner, TV antenna, two vents and large rack on the roof, and I always have a canoe or two up there, plus there is the weight of the roof itself, and the cabinetry inside which is also being lifted. The combined weights on the roof made it nearly impossible to crank up the roof manually. I stripped teeth off two cranks, so started thinking about a lift assist. I built the pneumatic roof lift assist described here as a 'proof of principle', just to see if it would work, and it does. I could not find an air bag that I thought would work, so bought raft fabric from Northwest River Supply and Stabond glue, and fabricated two cylinders, 8" diameter x 24" tall. I never found a suitable right-angle connector for the bottom, but improvised so that fiber reinforced flexible plastic tubing like you buy at Home Depot was connected at the bottom. This tubing was connected to 2 plastic - T's, one leg for the air and the second to a pressure gage. This was attached to a Master Flow "Tsunami" , MF-1050, 12 volts DC, 50 liters per minute air compressor which is capable of airing up 90psi tires. To provide space for the two airbags, 8" diameter holes were cut into the cabinetry at the inboard end of the bed, and these lined with the heavy cardboard cylinder material you would used if you wanted to pour concrete to anchor a post in the ground. I had hoped that the bags would collapse on themselves into these wells, but the raft material is too stiff. I found it necessary to add a strap to the airbags (glued on the back, Velcro on the front) which goes over the steel bar at the roof. Without the strap, the bags inflate sideways rather than pushing upward. There are LOTS of small details I've not added, which would make this post way too long. When I turn on the compressor the bags begin to inflate and the roof begins to rise even with two canoes up there, while I watch the pressure gage with a hand on the crank. I crank up to maintain the pressure at less than 10psi. When the roof is up a foot or so, which takes less than 2 minutes, I turn the compressor off, and finish the job with the crank - and it's no problem. The attached photo will give you an idea of the layout. You see the position of the bags, the compressor is under the bed and you can see the pressure gage next to it. I'll be glad to answer questions, but maybe we move that off these forums.