Forum Discussion

c_traveler2's avatar
Dec 30, 2013

CR1110 Refrigerator install in my TC

Yes you have to watch a video.

12Vdc compressor refrigerator have been talked about in this forum off and on. When my Norcold 300.3, an absorption unit, died again and for the last time, I decided to go a different route. Looking into the 12Vdc compressor refrigerator and asking many questions and doing several weeks of research, I decided upon Domentic CR1110 as the best fit for my needs. Watch the video for the rest of the story, I've had two link to that can be used.
click on pic for video


Youtube link: CR1110 Install

I have one group 27 house battery and 85 watts of solar and have had no problem in maintaining proper battery charge.

Thanks for watching my video, post any question you have about my project.

19 Replies

  • FreeLanceing wrote:
    Nice job, and nice video. We share the same camper, same year as well I believe. I have had my trials with the N300.3. I was wondering how you got the old unit out. As I recall it does not fit through the door. Sawzall it in half, remove the door? I was also wondering what that new unit cost. What if you don't have solar but maybe 2 batteries. I normally have 110 availible and could always run the honda for recharge. I imagine it would work great going down the road with the truck charging the battery. Mine still works but its not dependable. When I camp its rarely above 80 so I limp along.


    In the video it shows the door separated when its placed on the bed.
  • Nice job, and nice video. We share the same camper, same year as well I believe. I have had my trials with the N300.3. I was wondering how you got the old unit out. As I recall it does not fit through the door. Sawzall it in half, remove the door? I was also wondering what that new unit cost. What if you don't have solar but maybe 2 batteries. I normally have 110 availible and could always run the honda for recharge. I imagine it would work great going down the road with the truck charging the battery. Mine still works but its not dependable. When I camp its rarely above 80 so I limp along.
  • sabconsulting wrote:
    Great video - I hadn't thought about using video to record camper modifications, but it does give you a good impression of what is really involved in the job that maybe pictures on their own don't.

    One warning about these CR-series fridges (not a problem you have experienced), but anyone installing one needs to make sure they have good thick wire from the battery to the fridge - that one caught me out - I had a really long run of wire that was OK for running the absorption fridge, but on plugging it in the transient current draw as the big capacitor in the control unit charged, dropped the input voltage enough for its battery protection circuitry to shut itself down with no indication of what the problem was - just looks like a dead controller unit.

    Hence for anyone else doing this swap, if the fridge seems dead on 12v then try it with a jump start cable or similar heavy duty cable to the battery to prove it is working - if that is OK then it is just that you need thicker wire or a shorter run of wire to prevent the voltage drop.

    Steve.

    Thanks for the input about the 12Vdc wiring that's one of the first thing I'd checked out, as it turned out my original 12Vdc wiring was more than enough and I did remember your posting about that problem you had regarding the wiring.
  • Great video - I hadn't thought about using video to record camper modifications, but it does give you a good impression of what is really involved in the job that maybe pictures on their own don't.

    One warning about these CR-series fridges (not a problem you have experienced), but anyone installing one needs to make sure they have good thick wire from the battery to the fridge - that one caught me out - I had a really long run of wire that was OK for running the absorption fridge, but on plugging it in the transient current draw as the big capacitor in the control unit charged, dropped the input voltage enough for its battery protection circuitry to shut itself down with no indication of what the problem was - just looks like a dead controller unit.

    Hence for anyone else doing this swap, if the fridge seems dead on 12v then try it with a jump start cable or similar heavy duty cable to the battery to prove it is working - if that is OK then it is just that you need thicker wire or a shorter run of wire to prevent the voltage drop.

    Steve.
  • ~DJ~ wrote:
    Good Job!!! I see you were doing your Spiderman impression again!! Good thing you didn't fall off this time!! LOL

    Mine goes in to the shop next Monday!!! They are charging me 2 hours for the R&R. With my back the way it is right now and I don't have a helper I figured it is money well spent.

    Then I am going to look into a solar package.


    At least the TC wasn't moving, adding solar is a great way to go. I did add solar several years ago and been great.
  • Good Job!!! I see you were doing your Spiderman impression again!! Good thing you didn't fall off this time!! LOL

    Mine goes in to the shop next Monday!!! They are charging me 2 hours for the R&R. With my back the way it is right now and I don't have a helper I figured it is money well spent.

    Then I am going to look into a solar package.
  • cewillis wrote:
    It would have been done a lot faster if you had taken Dave's first suggestion.
    .

    I felt like doing that at times with the old unit.
  • It would have been done a lot faster if you had taken Dave's first suggestion.