Wolfrequiem wrote:
westend wrote:
A "star" scheme is where you have at least one individual wire to each brake set. I also ran forward, the (-) partner for each brake set because I wanted to have all the wires on one terminal strip.
You can read through the restoration thread in my signature line, "the Cowboy/Hilton" but it is without pictures, ATM. Photobucket wrecked that for us. If you do look through there and find something of interest, PM me and I can email you some pictures about a process.
Thanks. I will do that. Oddly enough, I think whoever had it wired before me had it the way you say do it--the wires are clipped on the back ones without my being able to tell, but one single wire feeds individual wires back into the center like you're suggesting on what is left of the wiring still on there (if my describing it that way makes sense).
westend wrote:
If I have one piece of advice to give a builder for a project like this is to draw some plans. They don't need to be Cadcam quality, just a general layout of mechanicals and the fixtures you're adding like bunks, counter tops, cupboards, etc. Those plans will serve as a reminder and help schedule the different parts of building.
I'm a carpenter by trade, and I've been sitting down the last few evenings doing just exactly what you suggest here, and modifying them to come under weight, first, getting individual weights of 2x's and plywood and siding, etc., and then even comparing it to different ways of doing the same thing, i.e., seeing if vinyl siding and osb is really much lighter than, say, T-111.
So, I'm with you on that one and definitely trying. Then, again, with this monkey wrench above, if that turns out to be the case, I don't see how I could go light enough to do half what I want and not overload the stupid things. I don't need 9K of axle, but at least the 7K of 3500lb-ers would be nice. Man, I hope Fayette has some better news for me tomorrow.
I'm looking for the picture in a folder of the brake wiring.
A pair of wires is lead from each brake wire magnet through this conduit:
The brake wiring is terminated on this terminal strip, in a box, on the tongue of my trailer. All the light wires also terminate on this strip:
"I'm a carpenter by trade"--small world. I wouldn't worry so much about what the weights of materials will be other than making sure you have the fore-aft and side-side somewhat even. Kitchens and baths throw off the weights but who wants different appliances on opposing walls (maybe you do, good luck).
Your frame is very stout and will forgiving of any extra weight added on it's rails. Just make sure the frame is stout in the center where the rail suspension acts to somewhat twist torque (in those upright boxes). The long, round, welded drawbar extension is also helping you here. Hey, if you still have a plaque on the tongue, it may list the GWR?
Because it was me designing my trailer, I added in things like tiled heater surrounds, plank countertops, and most of the interior bunk and settee framing is 2 x 4. I also have over 200 lbs of batteries inside. I ended up about 1000 lbs over the original Starcraft's Gross weight but I had found that the same sized rail frame was used for their bigger trailers. Really, it is built so well, that I could plank the frame and carry equipment on it.
Bottom line, if you built an 8' x 12' yard barn, 16" OC, 8' sidewall, with a shingle roof, your trailer will haul it.
Your project interests me as there are few builders that start from a scratch frame and complete to a livable space. For even a Jr carpenter, the framing, decking and roof is small spuds. I used as much recycled wood as I had lying around. Cedar was one I had a bit of and it fit the bill for a lot of what I did.
Edit: Adhesives--I probably used 30 tubes of PL400 (or similar), used it in almost all framing joints, where I ledgered frame pieces, added pieces, decking, etc. This does get pulled down the road and the adhesive helps hold it all together.
