My TT has Dexter EZ Lube bearings/axles. The video on their web site show that the bearings can be "re-packed" without removing the wheels/seals/bearings in the traditional manner. However, some folks seem to think this a dangerous practice risking blowing out a seal. I have repacked many bearings over the years but, if I don't need to remove the wheels, just spin them as I pump grease in, this seems like the way to go, that is, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. http://www.dexteraxle.com/resources/videos/e-z-lube-systemWhy should I or should I not deviate from the manufacturer's design maintenance recommendations?

You may do better by searching this site. I'm just curious, in 14 years you haven't seen it mentioned on here?

If it's time to repack, it's also time to clean and inspect both the bearings and the brakes.

I have 'em, don't use 'em. It's a good concept but doesn't work and isn't needed. Repack the old-fashioned way when you feel the need. My trailer was two years old when I repacked the bearings. They had plenty of grease on them and I have never used the EZ Lube feature. The other thing is you can blow grease past the inner bearing seal and get it on your brakes. EZ Lube also fills the hub with unnecessary grease. The only time that might be needed is on a boat trailer to displace water entry.Frankly, I think trailer bearings get way too much unneeded attention. When did anyone last do the bearings on their truck?The only thing I would suggest, if one has the mechanical ability, is to do an initial inspection of the bearings, ensure they've got plenty of grease and that the bearing nut is tightened properly. Put it back together and forget about it. If a bearing is bad it's going to fail regardless of the grease. Once you're satisfied that all is well, you shouldn't have to mess with your bearings again (or at least for several years).

Not! Nope, never, not a chance... You should periodically remove drum - then inspect brakes, then remove old grease and inspect bearings and then repack by hand using new seals. If you don't, how are you going to know what the condition the bearings, seals and brakes are in? Besides, the EZ lube feature just does not work well. Sometimes the bearings weren't lubed correctly lubed or seals correctly installed at the manufacturer and sometimes dealers add grease via the EZ Lube grease zerk on new trailers and cause problems. The photo below is courtesy anothr forum member and shows what the cheap Chinese bearings can look like. The owner of a local frame & axle shop has one just like it on display on his counter. Two out of 3 new TTs we've owned had leaking seals and bearing problems from new and both had grease on the brakes. The second time I discovered there was a problem was at the end of the 2nd season (on current TT) after finding that one bearing was running much warmer than the others. Also found leaking seals and grease on the brake shoes. Although it still had life left on the factory warranty, I ended up installing new US-made Timken bearings and hand packing. The dealer already messed it up once and decided it's better to take care of it myself. EZ Lube is just another sales gimmick like "outdoor showers" and "bumper sewer hose storage" features.

I had them on my last trailer which I had for seven years. Once a year I would jack each wheel and pump the grease in until the old grease showed up coming out. As I was doing it I would turn the wheel. About four years after I had the trailer I had them professionally done and the mechanic said they were in perfect condition, and then I continued to use the fittings until I sold the trailer. For what it is worth, that trailer made a 15,000 mile round trip to Alaska and back in one year, and in the other years, it probably accrued 3,000 miles each year.Jack L

Dexter EZ Lubes, use or not? | Good Sam Community

Crabbypatty
Explorer
May 15, 2018
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29595429/gotomsg/29613962.cfm#29613962
Huntindog
Explorer
May 15, 2018
Here is the facts on how this works.

The zerk feeds a hole that will attempt to grease the inner bearing. How well this will work depends on the condition of the seal/hub interface, and the skill of the person doing it.
He needs to slowly turn the wheel while steadyling pumping the grease... It is working blind as you cannot see what is really going on in there. Is the fresh grease getting evenly distributed in the bearing? Or are spots being missed/skipped? Is the seal really in good shape? or is grease seeping past it onto the brakes?
One simply cannot be sure. All seals age and leak at some point. Sometimes a brand new seal is nicked during installation... Without superman vision, one cannot know.

But the potential problems don't stop there. In order to grease the outer bearing, the grease must travel thru the inner bearing, and the hub cavity to the inside of the outer bearing. This takes a considerable amount of grease... Several tubes each time for a dual axle TT... That's right EACH TIME... The video on Dexters (Both the Dexter and Lippert systems work the same) site is misleading. The dirty grease that they show exiting the hub is only from the outer bearing. The dirty grease from the larger inner bearing is still in there some where.... Some of it may have even made it to the inside of the outer bearing!!
Without xray vision, one cannot know exactly where it is... So one must keep pumping and pumping and pumping,, until a second section of dirty grease emerges. Even then one cannot know if all the dirty grease is purged. It is a long trip for the grease, and it probably will not travel evenly around the hub..
With all of the pumping that must be done, a compromised seal will likely fail greasing the brakes... But hey, I hear that well greased brakes never wear out.:B

So you see it is not as simple as the marketing makes it out to be.

Now knowing all of the facts, if one still wants to use this "feature" I wish them well.
ljr
Nomad
May 13, 2018
In the interest of full disclosure, I am mechanically inept.

I very carefully followed the directions for the EZ Lube bearings on my old TT but ended up needing a brake job. From then on I had them repacked each year by a mechanic.

By my standards there was nothing EZ about them at all.
bnardini
Explorer
May 13, 2018
I have EZ-lube too. Every 2 or 3 years I pull a drum to check the brakes and so far the bearings look good. TT is 10 years old.
BossCamper
Explorer
May 12, 2018
Yes, if used correctly.

EX lube spindlesare NOT Bearing Buddy add-ons.
Walaby
Explorer II
May 12, 2018
OP I think you knew the answer before you posted. As you imply in your original post, some people say yes, some say no. So, not sure why you thought you'd get a different answer here.

You will get enough answers on either side to justify your decision.

But, popcorn night every now and then is good.

Mike
deltabravo
Nomad
May 12, 2018
falconbrother wrote:
My TT has Dexter EZ Lube bearings/axles. The video on their web site show that the bearings can be "re-packed" without removing the wheels/seals/bearings in the traditional manner. However, some folks seem to think this a dangerous practice risking blowing out a seal. I have repacked many bearings over the years but, if I don't need to remove the wheels, just spin them as I pump grease in, this seems like the way to go, that is, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Continually putting grease in over and over, eventually the rear seal is going to blow out.

I bought a used cargo trailer. The previous owner put grease in using the zerk fitting. 4 years of doing that blew out the rear seal and wrecked all 4 brakes. He didn't know it. I knew something was amiss with the brakes as I pulled out of his driveway and had to crank my ITBC up to 9 to get any sort of braking action.

Yes, you can use the zerk fitting to quirt in more grease a few times, but the bearings still should be removed, cleaned, inspected and repacked every once in a while.
Community Alumni
May 11, 2018
I had a 2500 Silverado and a F350 in the fleet at one time and both of their bearings lasted. Both were much heavier than the RAMs. The RAM's bearings just didn't last.
Adam_H
Explorer
May 10, 2018
proxim2020 wrote:
Adam H wrote:

Sealed bearings are the same tapered roller bearings as non-sealed bearings, just not serviceable. They typically go 100k or so before replacement so that gives you an idea how far serviceable bearings will probably go if you never touch them. BTW, I have pressed a set of sealed bearings apart and there wasn't very much grease inside.

Adam

Actually I have a pretty good idea about how long sealed bearings last. I've had a fair share of vehicles in my life and lots with sealed bearings. I've only ever had to replace sealed bearings on RAMs. Both trucks were third generation RAMs and needed to have their front hub bearings replaced right around 100k. A common issue for that generation of trucks.

I haven't had a sealed bearing fail on a Honda, Nissan, Hyundai, Kia, Ford, or Chevy vehicle. They were all sold between 150k-200k with their original bearings intact.

Yup, big weight difference between a RAM and a Honda. I'll bet the foreign cars didn't have USA made bearings/hubs either, lol.
Community Alumni
May 10, 2018
Adam H wrote:

Sealed bearings are the same tapered roller bearings as non-sealed bearings, just not serviceable. They typically go 100k or so before replacement so that gives you an idea how far serviceable bearings will probably go if you never touch them. BTW, I have pressed a set of sealed bearings apart and there wasn't very much grease inside.

Adam

Actually I have a pretty good idea about how long sealed bearings last. I've had a fair share of vehicles in my life and lots with sealed bearings. I've only ever had to replace sealed bearings on RAMs. Both trucks were third generation RAMs and needed to have their front hub bearings replaced right around 100k. A common issue for that generation of trucks.

I haven't had a sealed bearing fail on a Honda, Nissan, Hyundai, Kia, Ford, or Chevy vehicle. They were all sold between 150k-200k with their original bearings intact.