Dicor and 303

Yes I have used both for many years on a TT and have had great results in prolonged summer Texas and Nevada sun and temps. Very flexible for many situations IMHO. I do apply 303 directly over Dicor. Cheers to common sense and open

jimh406 wrote:
I'd scrape the old Dicor off and reapply. It's not that hard and cheap insurance.

We removed all of the original Parbond from the aluminum roof and resealed the roof penetrations (refrigerator, sewer vent, bathroom vent and escape hatch over the bed). Used Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling (White). Glad we purchased a new drip-free caulk gun. That and some painters tape made working with Dicor a snap!

Now that the roof is done it's on to the next step. Re-caulking all the windows and trim pieces on the sides with Dicor 551LSW1 White Non-Sag lap sealant. Trying to decide if we want to remove the trim pieces and seal the corners with Dicor Seal-Tite tape and new lap sealant or simply refresh the caulking along the trim. No signs of leaks. This is becoming one of those projects...when is enough enough :B

Still need to follow up with Dicor on the original 303 question. Been putting every hour possible into the roof re-sealing while the weather is good.

Appreciate everyone's comments!

I'd scrape the old Dicor off and reapply. It's not that hard and cheap insurance.

I've used 303 on awnings and boat tops. I don't find it to be that good. I have no idea what it would do to Dicor.

JimK-NY wrote:
I am curious about the concerns about the life expectancy of Dicor or Sikaflex. My RV is just shy of 20 years old. It has spent many summers in the desert southwest and winters outdoor in snow country. The original Dicor and Geoflex sealants are doing just fine.

Not too worried about the life expectancy of either product. The camper is already 25 years old. I suspect either the camper will wear out or I will before either Dicor or Sikaflex reaches end-of-life even in the brutal SW sunshine ;)

Doing a complete sealant strip and reseal of the roof and windows is more for peace of mind for the next Alaska trip than anything else. We have experienced some heavy rains during previous trips. That’s when leaks become a real problem.

Now deciding if we want to use Dicor non sag white around the windows, seams and other panels. Looks like the camper came from the factory with clear around the windows and white for the seams. But we hear the clear cures very shiny and not sure we want that look. We’ve had good luck using masking tape to get some nice looking edges on the caulking already so that’s not an issue. Guess beauty will be in the eye of the beholder on this one.

The camper deserves some TLC after 25 years of great service! But this has turned into a project where we’re asking ourselves “when is enough a enough.” Considering pulling corner trim and resealing with Dicor Seal-Tite corner seal tape. No leaks that we know of so a simple clean and seal of the trim is more in order.

1-800 to Dicor tech line is a great idea for the 303 question. Appreciate everyone sharing their opinions and experiences. One of the things we like about this forum.

Here’s a question for those familiar with Dicor. Once the Dicor has completely cured can you use 303 on it to help extend the life of the sealant by providing extra UV protection?

I would 1-800 to Dicor tech line and see what they say. Problems from adding one product over another can arise.

I am curious about the concerns about the life expectancy of Dicor or Sikaflex. My RV is just shy of 20 years old. It has spent many summers in the desert southwest and winters outdoor in snow country. The original Dicor and Geoflex sealants are doing just fine.

I have applied 303 over all plastic shrouds, caps, trim, and dometic window trim with no problems. When I am done with the camper I run some 303 over all black plastic bits on the truck.
I have NOT used it on any clear plastics/lexan such as heki skylights.

I was also wondering if 303 could help protect dicor or sikaflex.

FWIW, I found sikaflex to be MUCH more user friendly than dicor non-sag on vertical surfaces, but still use dicor self-leveling on the roof.

I would not try this for a couple of reasons. First the 303 might damage instead of help extend the life of the dicor. Dicor lasts for a long, long time. If the Dicor fails the reason is most likely due to flexing and cracks opening in the RV itself. Finally, 303 has a very short life outdoors. Any positive benefit vanishes within a few weeks as the 303 washes and weathers away.
Of course, since you live in a dry climate, your experience might be different. My experience in a wetter climate means I just don't bother to use it on any external surfaces.

I imagine you can use 303 on the plastic vents and AC shroud. But I would think some careful masking and a one time coat of Krylon white spray paint would protect better/longer. And as a bonus you would not have to keep reapplying it.