CR is a joke for me, but the Bible for most out there...
Who drives and takes care of their vehicles like a NY Taxis company? Their bodies
usually wear out before their drive trains and mainly due to far fewer cold starts.
Plus their maintenance schedule and that could be El Cheapo Jug engine oil and filters
Used to use Mobil 1 synthetic in all of my vehicles. Even the then wife's, but
after a year in there and it still looked like honey could not stand to not change
the oil. Yes, am anal about that kind of stuff. Now she is the 'Ex', my mechanic
says both of the lux sedans showing poor maintenance. He has told her to take
them else where. Says she doesn't change it on a regular schedule and takes them
to the corner quick lube...
Agree that if the ICE and Automatic isn't used at the max spec but maintained
on a good schedule...that just about anything with a certified label will do. Ditto
El Cheapo filters
But...if driven at the OEM's spec limits or over...then the higher spec synthetics
will do better. Ditto ambient conditions at the OEM's spec limits.
Another 'but' to this...even placing the specifications of both regular oil
and synthetic oil (both 'good' ones) will have many not understand what it says
As not many are tech savvy and is NOT a knock on them...just that they have
other strengths and interests
Back on CR...looked at the specifications of their new automotive test facility.
Including that marvelous track. I'd love to have access to them, but after being
a subscriber during my younger years...found that even with all of their PhD's...their
recommendations normally did not fit me. Disliked most of what they recommended
bigger than a washing machine. Worst were automotive
Then the Matador recommendation. Or the SUV tip over and that roof mounted steel
out rigger...any SUV would tip over...even a lower CG sedan with a few hundred
pounds of steel on their roof
Another point is 'context' of it all. Royal Purple is a good synthetic for track
but poor for street. Little to no additive package for street usage. Mainly the
over nite shut downs and the cold morning starts
Back to the OP's questions.
IF you have the OEM tow package, employ the severe duty maintenance schedule,
keep within the OEM's specifications and drive 'normally' (not boy racer)
On that, you need to understand how the ratings system works...too many take
any 'one' ratings out of context and in absolute terms
Meaning that the MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating) only applies if you have the 'curb'
vehicle. A 'curb' vehicle is the stripper model with the tow option. A manual
tranny and no options (other than that tow option) and one 150 lb driver
Take my Suburban. It's 'curb' is listed at 5,250 lbs. I've weighed it with me
(180), toolbox (+200), misc (+50). IIRC around 7,200 lbs. I'd have to unbolt
or cut out all of the options and take 30 lbs off my body to get it down to
the OEM listed 'curb'
Options: 4x4 (a few hundred lbs), automatic (a few hundred), big block (a few
hundred), highest option package (a few hundred), etc.
Note that in todays offerings...most OEMs do NOT offer for sale that 'curb' or
stripper model. They just used a test mule optioned out as a 'stripper'
If you driver HARD, tow HEAVY and travel in the high mountains...then be sure
to use the higher spec lube fluids, best filters and aggressive maintenance schedule
