Different TT construction
It seems that the industry is slowly moving away from wood stud, fiberglass insulation and aluminum siding to the fiberglass skin, aluminum tubing, solid foam for wall construction. Both have their p...
Forum Discussion
I have been following, figured I'll throw my thoughts out.
I have repaired several stick and tin campers from water infections and come spring I will start on a wet aluminum framed, filon sided and wood roof truss camper. A water infection seems to not discriminate between these styles of campers.
I left the composite floors out of this reply as what I have seen it is not good. That may just be a miss in the RV design OR it fits with the life they expected to get from it.
I do agree with the statement about shody assembly work, that is down right wrong.
I have also found, many folks who have bought a new (or used) camper really do not know how a camper gets a water infection. Odds are high that group never had anyone explain it to them and as such many have not done anything to prevent a water leak. Come 5 to 10 years later with no roof maintenance at all, they have a full blown leak or leaks all over if the camper has lived outside all the time. They still may not see any water inside the camper, but a leak in the ceiling, walls and floor can be there. And there are also leaks that are not from the roof. Basically, any penetration into the roof material, siding or floor system is a leak potential. We will put punctures from other objects off to the side right now as they can cause leaks too.
Regardless of stick and tin or aluminum studs and filon siding, the death of a camper from water infects both. Once the leak starts, it's downhill from there on when the leak will stop or the camper fail. Here are 5 groups I have found common amongst many a brand or build of camper. I'm sure there are more items.
1. Part of this issue is a design problem in my opinion. The standard RV extruded gutter rail system still used today, is a design issue. To small to be effective and the screws are under water during average rains. Same concept but larger and a different placement of the screws and it will work.
1A. Also in the design group, again in my opinion are 90 degree corner moldings with only 1 side with screws. It only has screws on one side and the other side has no screws. Simple fix, put screws on both side. Yes it costs a little more and takes more time to install, but it lasts longer and seals better.
1B. If you have a slide camper, how the slide is built can greatly affect if it leaks or not. However slides have advanced for the most part to help stop those leaks. Slide floor rot is better and slide seals have advanced. Still some room for improvement.
2. Part of this is a materials issue. The roof sealants and putty tape sealants for walls and non roof opening sealants are not a long life product. While many of the roofs do use a good quality butyl sealing tape, the caulking concept used on the roof is a weak link. And the putty tape used on the walls joints is just not a lasting product. Why not Eternabond tape all seams from the factory or other long life sealing tape? Costs, yes it costs some more, so offer it.
2A. Also in the materials group are fasteners used on the outside of the camper. Steel screws that rust come 6 to 10 years when exposed to water. A better life screw is a need before it becomes a water wick to the inside. High quality steel coatings or stainless are options.
3. Part of this is an assembly issue. Caulking skips, stripped screws not holding, molding installed wrong etc. from the factory. This is all about management. Setting the right expectations is where it all starts.
4. Part of this is the knowledge problem of the owner. Since they do not know or some do not care, a camper living outside all the time is destined die a water death. A new camper owner needs to understand how to care for their new camper and the fallout if they do not do what is needed.
5. And then there is the big question, how long is the design life of an RV supposed to be? How many miles, years, highway, off road etc. We may be getting what the design life is? This is a post in itself.
Either stick and tin or stick and filon or aluminum and filon they all seem to have the same things that attack the construction of the camper against a water infection. If groups 1 to 4 above where addressed, the construction we have today would last a lot longer and not be all that much more expensive. As to item 5, that may be a post in itself.
Hope this helps
John
I have repaired several stick and tin campers from water infections and come spring I will start on a wet aluminum framed, filon sided and wood roof truss camper. A water infection seems to not discriminate between these styles of campers.
I left the composite floors out of this reply as what I have seen it is not good. That may just be a miss in the RV design OR it fits with the life they expected to get from it.
I do agree with the statement about shody assembly work, that is down right wrong.
I have also found, many folks who have bought a new (or used) camper really do not know how a camper gets a water infection. Odds are high that group never had anyone explain it to them and as such many have not done anything to prevent a water leak. Come 5 to 10 years later with no roof maintenance at all, they have a full blown leak or leaks all over if the camper has lived outside all the time. They still may not see any water inside the camper, but a leak in the ceiling, walls and floor can be there. And there are also leaks that are not from the roof. Basically, any penetration into the roof material, siding or floor system is a leak potential. We will put punctures from other objects off to the side right now as they can cause leaks too.
Regardless of stick and tin or aluminum studs and filon siding, the death of a camper from water infects both. Once the leak starts, it's downhill from there on when the leak will stop or the camper fail. Here are 5 groups I have found common amongst many a brand or build of camper. I'm sure there are more items.
1. Part of this issue is a design problem in my opinion. The standard RV extruded gutter rail system still used today, is a design issue. To small to be effective and the screws are under water during average rains. Same concept but larger and a different placement of the screws and it will work.
1A. Also in the design group, again in my opinion are 90 degree corner moldings with only 1 side with screws. It only has screws on one side and the other side has no screws. Simple fix, put screws on both side. Yes it costs a little more and takes more time to install, but it lasts longer and seals better.
1B. If you have a slide camper, how the slide is built can greatly affect if it leaks or not. However slides have advanced for the most part to help stop those leaks. Slide floor rot is better and slide seals have advanced. Still some room for improvement.
2. Part of this is a materials issue. The roof sealants and putty tape sealants for walls and non roof opening sealants are not a long life product. While many of the roofs do use a good quality butyl sealing tape, the caulking concept used on the roof is a weak link. And the putty tape used on the walls joints is just not a lasting product. Why not Eternabond tape all seams from the factory or other long life sealing tape? Costs, yes it costs some more, so offer it.
2A. Also in the materials group are fasteners used on the outside of the camper. Steel screws that rust come 6 to 10 years when exposed to water. A better life screw is a need before it becomes a water wick to the inside. High quality steel coatings or stainless are options.
3. Part of this is an assembly issue. Caulking skips, stripped screws not holding, molding installed wrong etc. from the factory. This is all about management. Setting the right expectations is where it all starts.
4. Part of this is the knowledge problem of the owner. Since they do not know or some do not care, a camper living outside all the time is destined die a water death. A new camper owner needs to understand how to care for their new camper and the fallout if they do not do what is needed.
5. And then there is the big question, how long is the design life of an RV supposed to be? How many miles, years, highway, off road etc. We may be getting what the design life is? This is a post in itself.
Either stick and tin or stick and filon or aluminum and filon they all seem to have the same things that attack the construction of the camper against a water infection. If groups 1 to 4 above where addressed, the construction we have today would last a lot longer and not be all that much more expensive. As to item 5, that may be a post in itself.
Hope this helps
John
