Different types of caulking

Usually the clear stuff is silicone and is on the sides and front. On the roof will be a lap sealant if your roof is rubber. Silicone should not be used a rubber roof.
I used Krud Kutter silicone remover and it worked pretty well. I scraped off old silicone with razor blades (very carefully) and a variety of sharp wedges made from hardwood scraps, then used a toothbrush to apply the remover and let it sit for about half hour. More scraping and wiping with rags to get it all clean. I followed up with PolySeamseal caulk. I just like it better than other caulks. So far, I've removed, cleaned, and reinstalled about 100 feet of exterior trim with about 200' left to go. Wish the grandkids were old enough to teach to do it.
Good luck.

Skippy,
After you apply the silicone remover and it's had some time to work, use a toothbrush to remove the residue in the screw heads. No need to install new screws.

Help! I made the BIG mistake of sealing our roof vent on our 94 pop up (Skippy) with silicone two years ago. I wish I would have read these boards then. Needless to say, it leaked. I have spent the past two days scraping the old caulk off the roof using many tools and even acetone.

I bought ProFlex RV sealant for when I finally get the silicone removed. There is still a very thin layer of the silicone so I know nothing will stick to it and fix the leak. I ordered last night McKanica® Silicone Caulk Remover Gel so I'm hoping that will help.

But here's my problem. I did an extra special good job with the silicone and basically covered all of the screws with sealant. I can't get the silicone out of the tops of the screws (where you use the screw driver). Should I replace all of the screws? Or will the pro flex stick to that area? I have also looked at Eternabond tape as well as the Pro Flex RV brushable sealant. This mom just doesn't want to have another leak.

Thank you!!! :)

calewjohnson wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

westend wrote:
I would remove the silicone caulk down to the finished surface and use the Proflex or other polymer sealants. Silicone is going to fail when exposed to the the weather, there just isn't any other thing to be said about it. It will also be difficult to bond any new silicone to the original.

Silicone sealants are excellent when bonding to surfaces in compression like a crankcase pan, a valve cover, or any other place where compression comes into play and not exposed to weather.

Once silicone has been used nothing..not even silicone.......will stick,

Unless you thoroughly clean area with a silicone remover (solvent).

What kind of solvent would be safe for the sides of the trailer (without damaging the fiberglass)?

Cale

3M makes an excellent silicone remover. Apply it and allow it to soften the silicone, it will fall off. I would follow that up with mineral spirits to remove the residue.

I have no idea why your mfg. would use silicone as a sealant unless their equipment is set up for that and they are resisting changing it out.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

westend wrote:
I would remove the silicone caulk down to the finished surface and use the Proflex or other polymer sealants. Silicone is going to fail when exposed to the the weather, there just isn't any other thing to be said about it. It will also be difficult to bond any new silicone to the original.

Silicone sealants are excellent when bonding to surfaces in compression like a crankcase pan, a valve cover, or any other place where compression comes into play and not exposed to weather.

Once silicone has been used nothing..not even silicone.......will stick,

Unless you thoroughly clean area with a silicone remover (solvent).

What kind of solvent would be safe for the sides of the trailer (without damaging the fiberglass)?

Cale

westend wrote:
I would remove the silicone caulk down to the finished surface and use the Proflex or other polymer sealants. Silicone is going to fail when exposed to the the weather, there just isn't any other thing to be said about it. It will also be difficult to bond any new silicone to the original.

Silicone sealants are excellent when bonding to surfaces in compression like a crankcase pan, a valve cover, or any other place where compression comes into play and not exposed to weather.

Hmmmm...There is quite a bit to remove, that may be a multi-step process. IUf it is so prone to failure, why would they even use it in the first place? The cost difference is not that much difference between a quality tube of silicone and Pro-Flex.

Cale

Cale, I'm afraid that they gave you the incorrect info re; silicone. As has been pointed out, silicone won't even stick to silicone! So do yourself a favor and get some GeoCel ProFlex. Comes in a variety of colors.

Save the silicone for stuff like around your shower inside the trailer, etc.

WoodGlue

westend wrote:
I would remove the silicone caulk down to the finished surface and use the Proflex or other polymer sealants. Silicone is going to fail when exposed to the the weather, there just isn't any other thing to be said about it. It will also be difficult to bond any new silicone to the original.

Silicone sealants are excellent when bonding to surfaces in compression like a crankcase pan, a valve cover, or any other place where compression comes into play and not exposed to weather.

Once silicone has been used nothing..not even silicone.......will stick,

Unless you thoroughly clean area with a silicone remover (solvent).

I would remove the silicone caulk down to the finished surface and use the Proflex or other polymer sealants. Silicone is going to fail when exposed to the the weather, there just isn't any other thing to be said about it. It will also be difficult to bond any new silicone to the original.

Silicone sealants are excellent when bonding to surfaces in compression like a crankcase pan, a valve cover, or any other place where compression comes into play and not exposed to weather.

WoodGlue wrote:
For the roof you use: Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant
For the sides you use: GeoCel ProFlex
Never use silicone on the exterior of any RV.

ProFlex comes in clear, white, almond, bright white, etc.

The Dicor comes in plain white as far as I know.

Easy!

WoodGlue

I have always avoided silicone on the advice of the folks here. When we purchased our 2014 Outback, I wrote Keystone to ask, since I like to do my own maintenance and it looked very much like silicone...

Here is what Keystone told me:

"Thank you for contacting Keystone RV. In regards to your email, Cale on the exterior side walls and around windows etc. it would be silicone caulking and on the roof seams it would be a self leveling caulk, this can be purchased at any RV repair shop or a local camping world..

I hope this assists you."

Now, if I can get the actual brand so I can keep it the same, I will be happy.


Cale