DIY project for Generator rack

capacitor wrote:
As of its first generation, the Touareg was developed together with the Porsche Cayenne and the Audi Q7, sharing platforms and much technology. The vehicles were developed as unibody SUVs with independent suspension. The initial generation (2002–2010) offered five-, six-, eight-, ten- and twelve-cylinder engine choices.

Interesting, it pulls the trailer just fine?

Modern, firm suspension, stiff sidewall tires, independent suspenion, etc are an excellent basis for towing. Sway is caused by trailer motion pushing towing vehicle side to side. So low tech, soft, imprecise suspensions (think tractors and trucks) have a disadvantage.

Sway is actually tested and measured as increased understeer (front tires not able to turn as desired).

Very high tongue weight further unloads the front tires, making weight distribution hitches a necessity.

The Touareg (First gen; mine even has air suspension, allowing me to select sport (stiffer springs/more damping) tows phantastic. I run under 500 lbs tonque weight, heavy/compact items go in the car (behind driver seat, forward in trunk). In the future, I will put more weight on the A frame (currently battery, 2x LP bottles). Heavy items in forward storage box in trailer. Heavy other (food, drinks, etc) in storage above/near axle. I tow with fresh water tank full (weight is on axles). No heavy items at rear of trailer (=sway), not even bike rack.

Gas mileage sucks (but I only manage to get 13 mpg without trailer, so 9-10 is really no surprise at all).

My next towing vehicle will be either the T3 (3rd gen) Touareg TDI (3.0 liter turbo diesel, 8 spd auto, no air suspension avaible) or the Cayenne Diesel (same engine/trans/chassis, but optional air suspension). The Q7 is too long for me.

As of its first generation, the Touareg was developed together with the Porsche Cayenne and the Audi Q7, sharing platforms and much technology. The vehicles were developed as unibody SUVs with independent suspension. The initial generation (2002–2010) offered five-, six-, eight-, ten- and twelve-cylinder engine choices.

Interesting, it pulls the trailer just fine?

I know the WORST place to add mass (= weight, inertia) is far away from the center of the trailer.

So adding a generator rack at the end of the trailer is certainly a BAD idea (if concerned about trailer sway, stability, etc).

The A frame seems to be a good spot on the trailer, but I need to relocate battery (maybe buy sealed battery and put under floor; does not need to be accessed often). And do something with the 2x 20lb propane bottles (get rid of one), replace the other with stationary, cylindrical placed under floor, or a horizontal, smaller diameter.
Then make mount/platform for generators (2x 2000W)?

Ideally: make custom FRONT BUMPER mount for towing vehicle!!! The added weight on the front (steering) tires will actually HELP with sway, stability, etc.

Just need to find the time to take the front bumper off and find where the 'hard' points are (here: 2004 VW Touareg towing 7000 lb trailer).

Bert Ackerman wrote:


You had four frame cracks at the continuous machine welds where the flange was welded to the web of the main frame rail?

Actually the cracks were where the cross members joined the flimsy web of the "I-beam". The flimsy flanges have little resistance to lateral movement and that flexing causes cracks at stress points.

Yes, welded I-beams could be made strong enough to do the job, but in the RV industry it is all about cheap and light weight, thus the use of this marginal product.

Lynnmor wrote:

Bert Ackerman wrote:


What is the criteria that determines that a manufactured beam is flimsy and somehow weaker than a rolled beam of the exact same dimensions? Why, because its welded together from 3 pieces of sheet? Personal opinion or did someone run the structural calculations.

I did my calculating while I was running weld beads over my four frame cracks.

You had four frame cracks at the continuous machine welds where the flange was welded to the web of the main frame rail?

Bert Ackerman wrote:


What is the criteria that determines that a manufactured beam is flimsy and somehow weaker than a rolled beam of the exact same dimensions? Why, because its welded together from 3 pieces of sheet? Personal opinion or did someone run the structural calculations.

I did my calculating while I was running weld beads over my four frame cracks.

I like 12ga Angle for a 2'X4 'platform. It is light wt and strong enough for what I need to carry. A 2x2 x 1/8" steel angle across the bottom of the 4" bumper tube will also be strong enough and lighter than 1/4" angle. IMHO.

Note: My trailer is brand new. No rust yet!

What do you guys think!

Geeeze! How many times do we have to scroll through the same picture!
Barney

Lynnmor wrote:

2manytoyz wrote:


My last camper was a 25' Rockwood Ultralite. I could have added one to the back of mine. Here's how...

This is the frame of that TT:



I'm not sure who's camper has a frame and/or rear bumper made as thinly as pop cans, but I've never seen one.

Take a look at those welds where the vertical piece meets the top & bottom pieces. If I am not mistaken, it appears to be just the type of flimsy frame that should be avoided. I would rather have a real I-beam, not something pieced together.

Glad to see the RV forum bumper thread foolishness and drama is still alive and well in 2019, which is not exclusive to RVnet.

What is the criteria that determines that a manufactured beam is flimsy and somehow weaker than a rolled beam of the exact same dimensions? Why, because its welded together from 3 pieces of sheet? Personal opinion or did someone run the structural calculations.

All the structural members in the picture below are manufactured by welding sheet together.



And below they hold up a 25T overhead crane.



Where are all the rigs that have true cold rolled beams for frame rails? They are few and far between, and even then it's going to be what is known as an "MH" beam, not exactly a Wide Flange. Very few RV manufacturers use them, and those that do only use them on the largest units.

I used to use a bolt on Curt bracket on a the factory bumper of a Rockwood similar to 2manytoy's, and carried full coolers or firewoodand other gear on a 2' X 4'cargo platform thousands of miles over 7 years. Never bent anything, cracked a weld, or caused a catastrophe despite the welded together frame and 12 Ga fabricated tube RV bumper. I never added anything to it either such as additional reinforcement.

Granted some of these manufacturers will take one of those tubes and butt weld it to the end of the frame rail, with no gussets, angles, or anything else. But some will notch the frame rail to receive it, and others will reinforce the connection with gussets or angles. Some will do both. Some will also use thinner bumper tubes.

Blanket statements based on nothing mean little.

2manytoyz wrote:

The square tube on the back is actually welded to the I-beam frame. I can stand on the middle of it, doesn't flex.

Pop cans are pretty strong as long as they are in perfect condition but the second you crack them open, they lose a lot of strength.

Shape can provide a lot of strength...but by using a very thin layer...any corrosion or minor dents and it can lose a tremendous amount of strength.

Result: You mount the rack, everything seems fine...2-3yrs later corrosion on the inside of the bumper weakens it to the point that it fails. Or simply you crank down too much and the mounting bracket dents the bumper wall.